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Old 06-21-2003, 10:15 PM   #1
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Ecolibrium: NO-ICH Marine

I have decided do start using Ecolibrium: NO-ICH Marine to treat ich in my main tank. I have seen different threads discussing this product with varying results so I have decided that I will use this thread to document my progress (if any) with this product and update it with dosage and observation entries so others can observe my results.

NOTE:
I have read a great deal of information pertaining to the treatment of marine ich, and so far, the only proven methods of treatment that I have seen are Copper and Hyposalinity. Both require the separation of fish and inverts into different tanks. At this time I do have the equipment to do this, but I am in the process of cycling a 10gal that I will use for future QT use, this is why I have decided to use NO-ICH.

My Tank:
55gal, 150w Heater, 10Gal Americal WetDry, CPR Skimmer, Rio 1700 Pump, 36” 110w PC 10,000k, 48” 96-100w T3 2 Actinics 1 10,000k, 1” Sand Bed, ~45lbs LR, Red Mushroom Anemone, Green Button Polyps, Skunk Cleaner Shrimp, Snails, Turbo Snails, Fan Worms, Emerald Crab, Horseshoe Crab, Blue Linkia Star, Serpent Star, Harlequin Tuskfish, Purple Tang, Hawaiian Dragon Moray Eel. PH=8.2, Ammonia=0, Nitrite=0, Nitrate=.15. The Tang and Tusk both have ich.

Ecolibrium: NO-ICH Marine claims directly on the bottle:
NO-ICH Marine is recommended by Marine Experts to provide a proper balance in all Fish Only and/or Reef Tanks. It will safely and effectively eliminate marine parasites such as Cryptocaryon irritans a.k.a. `white spot,’ which only thrive in unstable conditions. NO-ICH Marine can also be used prophylactically to prevent outbreaks of such problems.
NO-ICH Marine:
• Eliminates parasites while not effecting Corals, Anemones or other Invertebrates.
• Biodegrades in 4-5 days, leaving no harmful residue.
• Does not harm Fish, Invertebrates or Nitrifying Bacteria, and unlike copper treatments, can be used in FISH ONLY and/or REEF TANKS with equal results.
• Needs no costly test kit in order to provide effective results.
• Protects your investment.

DIRECTIONS:
Add 2oz/25Gal or 50ml/100L of ACTUAL water (allow for all rocks, ornaments etc.). Repeat dose on days 4, 7, 10, and 13. In heavy or persistent infestations, dose with 50% more and continue treatment for an additional 2 weeks. Do NOT use any other chemicals during treatment. No protein skimming or charcoal use during treatment, but recommended afterwards. Product is biodegradable after about 5 days. Harmless to invertebrates. For aquarium use only.
Active ingredient 5-Nitroimidazoles.

I have turned off my skimmer, and I have estimated about 45gal of actual water in my tank, so according to the directions, I will be dosing my tank with 4 – 4 ½ oz of NO-ICH. Dosing(s) will take pace at approximately 9:30 PM ET on the set days 6/21/03, 6/24/2003, 6/27/2003, 6/30/2003, and 7/03/2003.
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Old 06-21-2003, 10:50 PM   #2
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Good luck! Just out of curosity do you perform a Freshwater dip with either Methylene Blue or Formalin prior to putting your livestock in your tank. I am also not using a QT tank but have been dipping the fish prior to putting them in the tank to try to prevent ICH and other problems.
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Old 06-21-2003, 11:47 PM   #3
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It will safely and effectively eliminate marine parasites such as Cryptocaryon irritans a.k.a. `white spot,’ which only thrive in unstable conditions.
The key here is Unstable Conditions. There is a reason why the ICH is in the tank in the first place. Either by introduction, or Unstable Conditions or both. I hope you have good luck with it. In the same breath I have to say that I would not trust it on my investment. The sad thing is, that even if it kills the ICH, the results of the harm it could impose, will not show up immediately. It could have detrimental effects on the amount of bacteria that is on the rocks and in the sand. There is something in it to kill parasites and that something kills other things while it is on duty... I am afraid it is one of those infinite double edge swords we have to put up with in this hobby...Danged if we do, Danged if we don't...

Please keep us posted with the results and again, I wish the best of luck to your endeavor...
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Old 06-22-2003, 12:03 AM   #4
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Unfortunately NO. I didnt know when set up the tank in Feb.
Quote:
do you perform a Freshwater dip with either Methylene Blue or Formalin prior to putting your livestock in your tank.


I have given my main tank its first dose. I removed the filter pad from the wetdry filter and turned off the skimmer. I have left the pre-filter in place inside of the overflow. The fish do not seem to be adjitated with the additive in the tank, which is a good thnig. I will feed them tomorrow sparingly.
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Old 06-22-2003, 02:27 PM   #5
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My tuskfish ate a little today first time he has eaten in over a week. I have been really worried about him. The tang is still eating well. I fed them Formula One Marine Pellet by Ocean Nutrition soaked in Garlic Guard by Seachem.

I tried to feed the eel chopped shrimp, scalops and clams soaked in Garlic Guard by Seachem. He didnt like it very much. He only ate 1 piece of the scalops. Everything else i tried to feed him he bit like he was attaking it, but he wouln't swallow it. Just left it floating in the water till i scooped it out or the crabs got it.

I do not see any spots on the tang today (very little yesterday). I can still see few spots on the tuskfish's tail and fins, but its not as bad as it has been. I have never seen any indication of ich on the eel, and he still has no spots on him. The ich is probably in the sand bed at this time. I really doubt that the No-Ich has had such fast reaction in the tank. The tusk has taken to lodging himself in a vertical position at the top of the tank between the overflow wall and the return during the day (not in the current) and he is most active at night after the lights go out.
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Old 06-23-2003, 10:32 PM   #6
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The tusk (Tyson) ate a lot today . He is swimming aroung like his old self. He still has white spots on his tail and fins, but he is much more active than he has been. I'm just so happy that he is eating The tang (Prince) is still eating well. I'm still not convinced that its the No-Ich thats working this fast. The parasites must be in their dormant stage. I will know for sure in a week or so. Tomorrow, i am scheduled to give my tank its second dose of the N-Ich. So far i have not seen any detrimental effects from using the product. My inverts are active, going about their business. The mushrooms are opening up nicely during the day and i see 4 new button polyps starting to sprout on the LR. So far so good.
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Old 06-24-2003, 01:34 PM   #7
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I had to order it from http://www.aquariumpros.com/Merchant...egory_Code=FIV

I am documenting my experiences with this product on RC and on www.Aquariumadvice.com, so others may learn from my efforts.

Please understand that I am not endorsing this product, nor am I suggesting that you, or anyone should use it for any purpose what so ever. I found that I was in a predicament where I have a serious infestation of ich in my saltwater reef aquarium and do not have the necessary equipment to isolate my fish in order to treat them and my main tank with the proven methods of Copper Treatment or Hyposalinity. And if you do indeed use No-Ich in your tank, you do so at your own risk.
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Old 06-24-2003, 05:19 PM   #8
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Methylene Blue Dips

I have a 75 gal reef tank with about 6 fish, within the last two days I have lost 4 fish. I am not sure why. I do not have the resources to do a quarantine but do the dips really help and how do they work?
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Old 06-24-2003, 05:32 PM   #9
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podo98,

There are lots of different reasons that your fish may be dying, so before you start treating your fish for any illnesses, you need to be fairly certain of what it is your fish has.

Can you give more information about your tank:

setup date

inhabitants

water parameters

equipment being used

physcal indications of illness on remaining fish
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Old 06-24-2003, 06:01 PM   #10
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Setup date : 11/15/02

Inhabitants : Dead Tang, Dead Coral Beauty, Dead Flame Angel, Dead Goby, Living Blennie (still i hope), Living Maroon Clown. !5-20 pieces of coral, hammerhead, star polyp, finger leather, big *** leather, bubble coral, lettuce, mushrooms, frogspawn, candy coral, brain, pagota cup, clam, electric scallop, crabs, snails, shrimps

Water parameters : N/A, 82F temp

Equip: AquaC remora Pro Skimmer, two powerheads, heater, 4 vho lights 2 white two actinic.

Physical Signs : the fish guy that helps me with my tank looked at the fish and was not sure why they died. The tang may have had small white spots indicating ich but I could not say for sure.
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