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Old 02-22-2012, 08:56 PM   #11
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Thanks again. That's what I would use for a drip, correct?

Some pics of the HT. Love the paint we used btw, who'd have thought that Martha Stewart would help with our aquarium life? Martha Stewart "Multi-Surface" Acrylic Craft Paint. $2 bottle at Michaels.

I've also added an air stone in one of the HOB filters, seems to be helping with the pH already. Didn't want to put it in the tank and freak out the fish.





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Old 02-22-2012, 09:57 PM   #12
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Driping is one way of dosing, using a doser pump is another, as is slowly adding it to an area of high flow.
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Old 02-23-2012, 11:42 PM   #13
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Quick Update
DT: No Ammonia or Nitrites in the rebuilt DT yet. The non-fish critters in it are definitely behaving more hungry tho - the reaction at feeding time is much more dramatic. Need to get salinity up a bit too, .0225 not good enough.

QT: Percs & Wrasse still doing great. 33% PWC for them yesterday, sucked up a lot of diatom dust.

HT: pH stable at 8.1 (API) with a VERY slow drip of the sodium bicarb water, lights off, airstone in HOB. Fish appear well, no spots. Salinity just below .010 on our hydrometer. Refractometer ordered. No ammonia in HT either - perhaps between the Purigen & StressGuard that's to be expected. 20% PWC yesterday but don't see the need today. Need to find a better 'shelter' for the Hi Fin tho, it never looks comfortable. I put together some small PVC structures today so we'll see if it even dares to go in.

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Old 02-25-2012, 11:48 AM   #14
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I just use pvc elbows and 90's of varying sizes for hiding places. The fish get to hide a bit and I can still see inside. You do need to remove them every few days and clean them.
Vacuuming the bare bottom on a daily basis is essential to remove any tomonts on the bottom along with all detritus that builds up. That should be a 10% PWC at a minimum. Yes it's a pain, but worth it in the end.

I would not trust the SG reading until I had a calibrated refractometer. How often are you checking the SG?
How are you making up the water lost to evaporation?
That affects the SG and you have a smaller tank and much smaller range to be kept.

I believe that Hyposalinity is the best method for curing Ich, but it takes time, and dedication to do it right. Remember that the tomont stage of the parasite can be up to 28 days. So not seeing any spots is meaningless unless you haven't seen any for 30 days or more.

The tomont stage is followed by the Theront stage where the newly hatched parasite is looking to attach to a host fish. That usually occurs at night when the fish are resting near the bottom. That stage only lasts about 48 hours. If no host fish is found the parasite will die.

If a host fish is found the parasite is now attached to the fish and growing. This is the only time it is visible. This period only lasts 3 - 7 days before the adult drops off the fish and looks to attach to a surface where it encysts and and grows (tomont stage).

That is why you need 6 - 8 weeks of not seeing any spots AND maintaining SG at 1.009 (or under 1.010)
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Old 02-25-2012, 03:13 PM   #15
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Checking SG daily, pH several times a day. Both are staying consistent now. I don't have a lot of evap loss since it's a small tank and well covered, but it's more than the drip is making up so I do add fresh daily.
Hadn't thought of sucking up tomonts daily, good idea as an extra layer of protection. We are seeing a touch of ammonia today and will be doing a PWC. I have 4G mixed & ready - so about a 25% change.
Understand the life cycle & duration of hypo, also that you may not see the parasite if it's attached in the gills for example. We're in for the long haul.

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Old 03-12-2012, 12:05 AM   #16
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Nothing exciting to report really, fish still doing well in their respective HT & QT. Eating well - Rod's Food seems to be a favorite.

Refractometer came in from BRS a couple of weeks back. After calibrating I tested the HT water and found it to be at 1.008-9 and in agreement with our swing arm hydrometer. So now I do the daily checks with the hydrometer and reconfirm with the refractometer on weekends.
Seeing about .5ppm ammonia. For daily PWCs I usually do 2.5G worth (about 17%), vacuuming the bare glass floor as much as possible. Still dosing with Stress Guard. pH slowly came up to 8.2 and is remaining stable there.

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Old 03-12-2012, 01:58 PM   #17
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As you are still seeing ammonia you should up your PWC's to 2x/day. What are you using for filtration that is not keeping up with the ammonia production.

Rod's Food may be too much for a HT. Are you using the original or the Fish Only variety?
How often are you feeding? I would only feed 2x/week in the HT (that's all I feed in the DT) and make sure there is no leftovers.

Why wouldn't you use the refractometer daily? It takes much less water to get a measurement and is far easier to use.
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Old 03-12-2012, 06:28 PM   #18
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Thanks for the input again! I guess the hydrometer vs refractometer is just a personal preference - I feel like the hydrometer is quicker & easier.

Here's an interesting twist on the ammo. I really had no reason to doubt the API results but double checked with Salifert just now. API gave me almost 1ppm, while Salifert was "clearly" (see what I did there) <.25. That's an awfully large discrepancy. I have both Purigen & Zeolite in the HOB filter and I'm dosing with Stress Guard. Could any of that be causing either test to give incorrect results? As I understand it, ammonia detoxifiers like Stress Guard should still show positive ammo on tests, tho it is less harmful to the fish.

Daily feeding, usually no leftovers because I'm very stingy. I think I will reduce the feeding frequency tho. We've been alternating between flake, mysis, 'marine cuisine' & the Rod's. They clearly like the Rod's best. It's the 'coral blend' so yes it has stuff not needed in the HT.

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Old 03-13-2012, 11:32 PM   #19
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Don, I would suggest that Stress Guard is throwing off the API kit. They may even reference it in their instructions or online at their site. Now you understand why I prefer Salifert for any test that I don't have an electronic measuring device for <g>.

As for the swing arms, I found when I did my testing years ago that it was usually the same as a refractometer, but repeated tests were all over the place. So unless you did a test, rinsed thoroughly with fw, dried it overnight, the next test result could not be trusted. If I was checking 2 or more times a day I wanted to be sure the results were accurate. I know I get that with a refractometer. I am uncertain if a swing arm hydrometer will do the same.
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Old 03-30-2012, 01:18 PM   #20
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So now we're over the 5 week mark on hypo in the HT. Gave it an extra week in case the salinity wasn't quite low enough in the first week (but I think it was). Brought the SG up from 008 to about 0095 yesterday according to the refractometer. So I've mapped out a 7 day course using SaltyZoo's calculator:

This plan calls for 7 water changes
Tank Sal. (BEFORE) Gallons Salinity Tank Sal. (AFTER)
1 1.01 sg / 13 ppt 5 1.017 sg / 22 ppt 1.012 sg / 16 ppt
2 1.012 sg / 16 ppt 5 1.019 sg / 25 ppt 1.014 sg / 19 ppt
3 1.014 sg / 19 ppt 5 1.021 sg / 28 ppt 1.017 sg / 22 ppt
4 1.017 sg / 22 ppt 5 1.023 sg / 31 ppt 1.019 sg / 25 ppt
5 1.019 sg / 25 ppt 5 1.026 sg / 34 ppt 1.021 sg / 28 ppt
6 1.021 sg / 28 ppt 5 1.028 sg / 37 ppt 1.023 sg / 31 ppt
7 1.023 sg / 31 ppt 5 1.03 sg / 40 ppt 1.026 sg / 34 ppt

So by next Friday we'll be back to normal levels. Then we can observe for another week or two and be ready to re-introduce to the DT middle of April. That's also past the 8 week mark for the DT going fishless.

Fish are all still well and eating in both HT & QT. The DT is being overtaken by 'pods that I'm sure the Six Line will go crazy on when finally introduced. Should be entertaining!

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