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Old 10-17-2004, 06:49 PM   #151
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Originally Posted by MarkW19
So if I buy the poylps/shrooms/capnella/leather corals on their own, I can just place them straight on the rock
Yes

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(what do you mean by anchored? ?
Glued, epoxied or wedged so they do not fall easily.

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If they're attached to some rock in the LFS, I guess I'll have to buy the rock too?
Pretty much. The LFS will not normally want to only sell a portion of a displayed coral. It's usually all or nothing at least IME.

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If the coral beauty does nip the corals, what's the worst that could happen (for either the fish or the coral)?
For the fish a full belly, they have been known to actually completely consume some soft corals such as Xenia and the like. For the coral it could mean certain doom, a minor irritant preventing proper extention or if quite large nothing of a real concern.

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Do corals use much oxygen up in the tank?
An individual coral would not consume as much as a fish but as with anything, size and quantity are relavent factors.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-17-2004, 06:53 PM   #152
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Okie - if a piece of rock's lying in the corner of my LFS and I don't really know where it's come from (I guess baserock isn't in tanks?), am I still ok to add it after a good SW rinse?
If a rock is in a SW holding tank base or otherwise it should be fine as far as content, you should still be wary of adding an ammonia source if not cured seperately. Easy enough to tell though, just smell the water from the holdinbg tank. If it stinks at all it's not cured properly. Just rinsing it wouldn't do much good.

If dry rock, rinsing and adding would be just fine. You could take some vinegar with you to the LFS and ask them to allow a small drop or two on a piece to verify CaCO3 content. As with aragonite sand, the rock should also fizz.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-17-2004, 07:12 PM   #153
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Cheers.

I'll get it dry to avoid complications (or I might as well get liverock :P).

If it's not CaCO3 based (ie. if it doesn't fizz), is it no good then?

I guess my LFS will sell the suitable aquarium glue or whatever? I guess it's not totally permanent?

Personally, would you risk it with the coral beauty? Considering my past problems of actually finding any fish that I like (that will fit in my tank :P). I really like the CB...
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Old 10-17-2004, 07:15 PM   #154
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I've got good oxygen levels now. About 6mg/l I think it is.

When I add my corals (medium sizes) and 2 more fish, do you think my oxygen would still be adequate?

And, will the corals I've chosen affect the pH of my tank at all, or alter any other levels?

Even if I buy my corals from a coral-only tank, if the coral has only been in that tank for a couple of weeks, it could still very easily be carrying ich etc. couldn't it? Do people QT corals? Or not?
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Old 10-17-2004, 09:19 PM   #155
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When I put my corals in my tank, I'm going to increase the time the white T5s are on with the actinics over a week or so. But, during this time, is it ok to put the whites on for say an extra hour each night during feeding time for my fish?
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Old 10-17-2004, 10:34 PM   #156
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If it's not CaCO3 based (ie. if it doesn't fizz), is it no good then?
It doesn't mean it's not good simpley that it will not offer any additional buffering power similar to silica sand. It should still be usable albeit not the most desired addition. Personally if that's the case I would keep looking.

Quote:
I guess my LFS will sell the suitable aquarium glue or whatever? I guess it's not totally permanent?
The glue and/or epoxy will not be permanent. A good shove and it'll snap. As far as your LFS carrying the epoxy puddy yes but you'll most likely need to get the super glue gel from the hardware store. Just be sure is the gel and not the liquid and the ingredient list contains cyanoacrylate.


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Personally, would you risk it with the coral beauty? Considering my past problems of actually finding any fish that I like (that will fit in my tank :P). I really like the CB...
My personal choice, no I would not risk a coral beauty in a primarily softy tank. If it where me I'd risk it moreso with a flame or lemonpeel. As said though none are much in the way of trustworthy except possibly an Eibli.

Quote:
When I add my corals (medium sizes) and 2 more fish, do you think my oxygen would still be adequate?
And, will the corals I've chosen affect the pH of my tank at all, or alter any other levels?
Even if I buy my corals from a coral-only tank, if the coral has only been in that tank for a couple of weeks, it could still very easily be carrying ich etc. couldn't it? Do people QT corals? Or not?
The O2 levels should be fine as long as the fish added are not messy pigs and the appropriate size for the tank. As long as the pH does what it's supposed to, you should have no concerns.

No matter what precautions we take unless everything that goes into your tank has been QT'd first there will always be a risk. The only thing you can do aside from that is make the best informed desicion as possible and not make impulse purchases. Personally I do not QT corals and inverts but I am quite cautious where I buy them.

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When I put my corals in my tank, I'm going to increase the time the white T5s are on with the actinics over a week or so. But, during this time, is it ok to put the whites on for say an extra hour each night during feeding time for my fish?
If you mean add an hour to the total time yes it's fine. Once the lights have gone off after the normal light cycle it's best to leave them off until the next day. Turning the lights on and off will create stress for the fish otherwise.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-18-2004, 06:02 AM   #157
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Thanks!

The corals from my LFS are kept with a couple of fish, so I guess there's a risk of parasites. Would you recommend a FW dip to lessen the risk? Is it fairly rare for corals to bring a parasite into the system though?

Also, their corals come attached to a small piece of LR. So I guess that could be a problem for parasites and/or ammonia too?

And, my LFS says to just run carbon for 3 days after I introduce my corals, but then bin it and not use it again until I introduce new stock. It's either this or run it 3 days each month. Which would you do? I don't want to cause any problems at all in the tank by carbon leeching out etc., I've read it can put nitrites back into the system if problems occur?

I'm going to be putting the carbon in a small filter bag, with a piece of filter wool above it in the bag.

As far as slowly introducing the new lighting (actinics) goes, as suggested I'm going to slowly increase the time the whites are on with the actinics. The actinics are on from 2pm - 2am, and with the whites I'm going to start with 7pm-11pm, then 7.30pm-11pm the next day, then 7.30pm-11.30pm etc. Until I get to the required 3pm - 1am. I'd rather keep the lighting centered around feeding time (about 10pm). That okie?

I don't have to worry about this for my 2 fish do I - I can just slap the new lights on for the full period as soon as I get them?
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Old 10-18-2004, 06:16 AM   #158
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As I'll be drip-acclimating the corals all at once over an hour, can they all be put in a large bag and brought home together, so that I can drip into the one bag for them all? And does it matter if they fall over in the bag etc.? I think I worry too much :P
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Old 10-18-2004, 11:02 AM   #159
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The corals from my LFS are kept with a couple of fish, so I guess there's a risk of parasites. Would you recommend a FW dip to lessen the risk? Is it fairly rare for corals to bring a parasite into the system though?
I wouldn't. The time it would take to do any good would also result in damaging the coral. Once the parasite encysts to reproduce, their pretty much invulnerable. Flatworms can be removed this way but you would need to be extremely careful.

Quote:
Also, their corals come attached to a small piece of LR. So I guess that could be a problem for parasites and/or ammonia too?
I would not concern yourself with die off from a piece of coral rock. Too small and most likely well cured anyway. As I said, there will always be a possibility of parsites but the risks are quite low.

Quote:
And, my LFS says to just run carbon for 3 days after I introduce my corals, but then bin it and not use it again until I introduce new stock. It's either this or run it 3 days each month. Which would you do? I don't want to cause any problems at all in the tank by carbon leeching out etc., I've read it can put nitrites back into the system if problems occur?
No offense to your LFS and others that might think this way but it's quite old school and not at all accurate. Carbon does not damage the system in any way. If buying higher grades of carbon the amount of phosphate getting into the system would be no more than that of foods your feed the fish if not less. For the carbon to leech like you've described, there would need to be a drastic change in the tanks chemistry in which carbon leeching would be your last concern. As far as the nitrite is concerned, that would mean the build up of detritus and that it's not being rinsed regularly. Carbon does not sorb nitrites, ammonia or otherwise to any real extent.

Personally I run carbon 24/7 in my skimmer housing. The brand I use (chemi pure) gets changes every 2 months and rinsed weekly in tank water.

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I'm going to be putting the carbon in a small filter bag, with a piece of filter wool above it in the bag.
Put the wool before the carbon as far as flow direction is concerned. You don't want the carbon being used for large particle filtration.

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As far as slowly introducing the new lighting (actinics) goes, as suggested I'm going to slowly increase the time the whites are on with the actinics. The actinics are on from 2pm - 2am, and with the whites I'm going to start with 7pm-11pm, then 7.30pm-11pm the next day, then 7.30pm-11.30pm etc. Until I get to the required 3pm - 1am. I'd rather keep the lighting centered around feeding time (about 10pm). That okie?
Sounds fine.

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I don't have to worry about this for my 2 fish do I - I can just slap the new lights on for the full period as soon as I get them?
Light intensity increases should be gradual for existing livestock. Coral will need to light acclimate themselves to prevent bleaching. Fish can also become severely stressed if accustom to a lower light intensity. Be sure anything you have now is given time to adjust. Anything you add in future will be fine without the light acclimation.

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As I'll be drip-acclimating the corals all at once over an hour, can they all be put in a large bag and brought home together, so that I can drip into the one bag for them all? And does it matter if they fall over in the bag etc.?
Corals of different types must be bagged and transported seperately. Mixing them would be disasterous. Once placed in the shipping bag they will no doubt become stressed and begin emitting toxins and nematocysts. That would result in the corals in the bag becomeing damaged or dead. Seperate bags for transport and acclimation is still the best, safest route to take. It may seem labour intensive but much easier on the livestock.

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I think I worry too much
I mean no offense but I would tend to agree. :P
It's all well and good to know as many of the risks and be as prepared as possible but try not to over analyze every situation. Don't get me wrong, I have no issues with reponding to any and all of your posts but Im concerned that your going to become so paranoid about what may happen you'll lose the enjoyment of what the hobby is meant to be and that would be a shame.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-18-2004, 12:09 PM   #160
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Totally agree Steve (with the last statement) :P

I'm going to run carbon for 4 days a month. Cheaper that way, less work, and stops me worrying about problems with it :P By leeching, I really meant physically, if the filter bag came undone or whatever (there I go again...). The detritus you talked about is got rid of by the rinsing of the filter and media like we spoke about a few days ago? Mind you, a couple of days ago was the first time I rinsed it at all in 7 months :P

Re lighting, I've just got my actinics today and I like the "cool" effect, but actually prefer the look of just the whites without the actinics, I think it's sharper and brighter. So, how about just having the whites on during my main viewing period, ie. 8pm - 11pm. That'd be actinics alone from 2pm-3pm, whites and actinics from 3pm-8pm, just whites from 8pm-11pm, both from 11pm-1am, and just actinics from 1am-2am. How's that? Or could it unbalance my fish changing the lights about like that?

As far as filter wool: I'm putting a small filter bag in the middle of one of my media baskets, on its side. So I guess I'll put the wool (if it's big enough!) on top inside the bag so that the water hits the wool first?

And finally, the polyp colonies I get from my LFS I assume will be on fairly substantial pieces of LR. Would you worry about ammonia?

Cheers again!
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