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Old 10-18-2004, 06:28 PM   #161
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If the corals have to be in seperate bags Steve, I'll have to acclimate one at a time. Each one will take about an hour to acclimate...if I float the closed shipping bags for each coral in my tank while one is being acclimated, would that be ok?

I'm getting in total 7 individual corals (inc. 2 mushroom species and 2 button polyps). That'd mean the last coral to be acclimated would be in it's shipping bag floating for over 6 1/2 hours.

What do you think? Or would you perhaps get half of the coral at a time and then get the rest at a later date, meaning the "last" coral would only be in its bag for about 3 hours?
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Old 10-18-2004, 06:43 PM   #162
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If the corals have to be in seperate bags Steve, I'll have to acclimate one at a time. Each one will take about an hour to acclimate...if I float the closed shipping bags for each coral in my tank while one is being acclimated, would that be ok?
Why one at a time? Remove enough water from the tank to float all the bags equally. Once removed for drip acclimation the tank water can be replaced easily enough. All the corals can be acclimated simultaniously using a few airline tubes. I can see no reason to only do one at a time.

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I'm getting in total 7 individual corals (inc. 2 mushroom species and 2 button polyps). That'd mean the last coral to be acclimated would be in it's shipping bag floating for over 6 1/2 hours.
The shrooms can be acclimated together as can the button polyps. As I said only corals of different types must be bagged seperately. The third coral being an unknown I couldn't say.

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What do you think? Or would you perhaps get half of the coral at a time and then get the rest at a later date, meaning the "last" coral would only be in its bag for about 3 hours?
I don't see why all cannot be done at the same time?

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-18-2004, 06:51 PM   #163
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I had a bit of trouble getting the drip to work with just a tube and a knot before, so I used a powerhead and a clamp over the end of the pipe...I guess I'm not doing it right :P

I'll time it so that I'll do a waterchange the next day after the corals have been put in, to replace the water that was used for the drip.

What about my previous question about lighting etc.? Then, hopefully, that should be the last question
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Old 10-18-2004, 06:54 PM   #164
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Re actinics: Is the idea that the actinic tube is placed directly above the corals? ie. if most of the corals are in the middle of the tank, the actinic tube(s) should be in the middle of the tank overhead? Or doesn't it matter?
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Old 10-18-2004, 07:17 PM   #165
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I had a bit of trouble getting the drip to work with just a tube and a knot before, so I used a powerhead and a clamp over the end of the pipe...I guess I'm not doing it right :P
You could also make a "U" with the tubing by folding it over and loosely wrapping an elastic around the bent area of the hose. By changing the diameter of the loop in the hose, you can increase or decrease the flow.

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Re lighting, I've just got my actinics today and I like the "cool" effect, but actually prefer the look of just the whites without the actinics, I think it's sharper and brighter. So, how about just having the whites on during my main viewing period, ie. 8pm - 11pm. That'd be actinics alone from 2pm-3pm, whites and actinics from 3pm-8pm, just whites from 8pm-11pm, both from 11pm-1am, and just actinics from 1am-2am. How's that? Or could it unbalance my fish changing the lights about like that?
Having the lights going on and off like that would be counter productive. If you do not like the look of the actinic/white combo then just go with the white bulbs only. It's your tank and your choice but try keeping some sort of consistant routine with a full 8-12 hour period with all the lights going at the same time

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Re actinics: Is the idea that the actinic tube is placed directly above the corals? ie. if most of the corals are in the middle of the tank, the actinic tube(s) should be in the middle of the tank overhead? Or doesn't it matter
Doesn't really matter but when you consider most of the corals tend to end up along the middle of the tang lengthwise, I would have the whites in the mid position and the actinic on the outside.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-18-2004, 07:20 PM   #166
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I guess the actinics would benefit my corals a lot though. So if I want to keep corals maybe it's a sacrifice I'll have to make!

On another note, I currently have a carbonate hardness of 8dkH, which I guess is in the lower region of the acceptable range.

But, could this go down even further? When I add my last 2 fish, and then my softcorls/polyps/shrooms, will/could this go down?

It hasn't gone down in 7 months, but then again I only have 2 fish in!

The only differences with the corals is I'll be using the carbon for 4 days a month, and possibly a bit of live phyto once a week, and of course the increased lighting. With the addition of my new fish and corals, can these factors cause the carbonate hardness/alkalinity to go down?
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Old 10-18-2004, 07:56 PM   #167
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I guess the actinics would benefit my corals a lot though. So if I want to keep corals maybe it's a sacrifice I'll have to make!
Actinics are not necessary or required only sufficient light intensity. If you don't like the look of the actinic, there's no reason you must use it. The only loss would be that the fluorescence of the corals will not be noticed much but the colors will still be present.

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On another note, I currently have a carbonate hardness of 8dkH, which I guess is in the lower region of the acceptable range.
Your alkalinity is fine and actually at the higher end somewhat but I can't tell you if it needs changing or not without the Ca reading. Anything between 4.2-8.4 DKH is within NSW levels. Anything higher is unneccesary.


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But, could this go down even further? When I add my last 2 fish, and then my softcorls/polyps/shrooms, will/could this go down?
Acids and wastes produces by animals and other organisms will afeect alkalinity as well as pH. It should not be that much of a concern with regular water changes. With a properly maintained tank either by water changes (best for a softie tank) or chemical addition through testing first, you won't have any concerns.

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It hasn't gone done in 7 months (--edit--), but then again I only have 2 fish in!
With regular water changes and the proper amount of foods fed, it should rerly change unless there is a heavy CaCO3 demand created by either scleractinians or coralline growth.

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The only differences with the corals is I'll be using the carbon for 4 days a month, and possibly a bit of live phyto once a week, and of course the increased lighting. With the addition of my new fish and corals, can these factors cause the carbonate hardness/alkalinity to go down?
No, not IME.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-18-2004, 08:05 PM   #168
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I thought it was 8 - 10 dkH that was needed?

Would you call 2 T5 39w whites suitable lighting for my tank?

I guess there won't be a heavy CaCO3 demand from just my few corals though?

I'll monitor the alkalinity and pH after I've got my new additions, and add Proper pH (8.2) to my waterchange water if necessary.
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Old 10-18-2004, 08:18 PM   #169
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I thought it was 8 - 10 dkH that was needed?
Depends on the level of calcium in the tank as well. NSW levels are 1.5-3 mEq/l. Anything higher than that is artificial and serves no benefit. I would however suggest keeping it in the 2.5-3 mEq/l with scleratinians though. With what you have now, your just fine although as I said it would help to know the Ca.

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Would you call 2 T5 39w whites suitable lighting for my tank?
Not really. 4x39w T5 would be much better. Whether that be all whites or the combo.

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I guess there won't be a heavy CaCO3 demand from just my few corals though?
With the corals we've discussed thus far, no.

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I'll monitor the alkalinity and pH after I've got my new additions, and add Proper pH (8.2) to my waterchange water if necessary.
Don't add chems specifically for pH. Test the pH and and alk. If alk is high and pH is low, then it's environmental and adding chems would be a temporary bandaid and could lead to larger concerns. If alk and pH are both low, then add a buffer to boost the alk to where it should be balanced with Ca and that should also fix the pH.

Cheers
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Old 10-18-2004, 08:23 PM   #170
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I'm going to keep the actinics for now. When the tubes go, I may replace them both with whites, or maybe one white and one actinic (so I'll have 3 whites and 1 actinic). Will see how it goes

I'll get a Calcium testing kit. I guess if the levels are too low when I've got my corals, I'll have to use Kalk or something though?
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