First corals...

[steve-s]

I just can't imagine how the 2 actinics with the whites will affect the look of my tank...less white I guess! And perhaps even less bright (more blue and soothing?)? Will it definitely be an improvement with the actinics and whites on at the same time though - ie. I'll think "wow that's really good"?

I personally think you'll be happier with the look but the proof in the pudding so to speak. The upside is, if you don't really find it's what you want the actinics can easily be replaced with whites once they wear out. No harm, no foul

The button polyps are Protopalythoa sp. by the way

You should see a definate benefit in time then.

What would you recommend then - running the carbon just one day a week or 24/7? Which is better?

Personaly I run carbon or a polyfilter in all my tanks 24/7. The decision is really one you need to make for yourself. IMO, the benefits of it's use far outweight any negative implications of which there are few and none that will damage the tank in any way.

And, re. filter: how long is the filter ok to be empty of water (for the bacteria/balls etc.)?

As long as the media remains wet and does not get too cold/hot, it should be just fine for a few hours.

There's quite a bit of detritus building up in the outside wet/dry part. But I've read in the manual that this compartment should never be opened up...what do you think? It's the part circled below.

Can't help you there. I've never seen the wet/dry side attachment in person.

Any suggestions for my final fish?

Other than being reef safe and not getting larger than about 3" or so, no I don't. Why not look around the internet and decide on about 5 fish and post a wish list.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

Okie...I'll get the actinics!

Even if I don't get any corals (haven't decided yet! I really like the dwarf angels, amongst other points ), I'll still get them.

Do you think the extra lighting (the actinics with my whites) will cause more problems with algae (other than what I have now ?

 

[steve-s]

Do you think the extra lighting (the actinics with my whites) will cause more problems with algae (other than what I have now ?

Increasing wattage can cause additional algae issues but since it's just the addition of actinics you shouldn't have any real increase. If anything, most algaes do quite poorly in "actinic only" lighting with the exception of coralline.

Cheers
Steve

 

[MarkW19]

Steve: so basically if I empty the water out of my filter, take the media baskets out straight away and put them straight into the bowl of tank water, then straight back into the filter (and fill it up again) when I've done, I'll be ok?

I'm doing a waterchange on Thursday...can I keep a bowl full of some of the old tankwater (that I'd be throwing out) for a day until Friday when I clean my filter...the bowl wouldn't be heated or aerated though or anything of course. I'd just be putting a lid over it - will it be ok to rinse the filter balls in this water even though it'll be cold and just sat there doing nothing for 24 hours?

 

[Atari]

I wouldn't bother upgrading your lighting unless you are getting corals. Spend the money on LR instead.

 

[MarkW19]

Atari: I don't mind upgrading the lighting if it's going to make my tank look a lot better overall, even without corals!

 

[steve-s]

Steve: so basically if I empty the water out of my filter, take the media baskets out straight away and put them straight into the bowl of tank water, then straight back into the filter (and fill it up again) when I've done, I'll be ok?

That would be fine

I'm doing a waterchange on Thursday...can I keep a bowl full of some of the old tankwater (that I'd be throwing out) for a day until Friday when I clean my filter...the bowl wouldn't be heated or aerated though or anything of course. I'd just be putting a lid over it - will it be ok to rinse the filter balls in this water even though it'll be cold and just sat there doing nothing for 24 hours?

Why not just wait until Friday or Saturday and do both at the same time. One day more or less for the water change won't make any difference.

I wouldn't bother upgrading your lighting unless you are getting corals. Spend the money on LR instead.

Agreed

Cheers
Steve

 

[Atari]

If I was you I'd buy a single actinic tube and replace one of your white tubes to see how you like the look... it won't be as bright but it should look very similar to how the 4 tubes would look.

 

[MarkW19]

Okie

Steve: my LFS says only to rinse a portion of the media balls at once, and not do them all at the same time?

And, in The Concientious...it says that a juvenille regal or yellow tang can get along in a smaller tank, but he recommends a 50g (US gals.) tank for a growing tang (which is about 40 imp. gals.).

Perhaps if I switch from the regal tang to the yellow tang as my final fish (as it doesn't get as big) - what do you think?

 

[MarkW19]

And, will it definitely be better to switch my photoperiod from 2pm - 2am (as it is now), to 12pm - 12am with moonlights from 12am - 3am and 9am - 12pm?

Will my fish get more of a rest with the 12-12 times, and possibly get less stressed because their day is shorter (taking into consideration the natural light before the main tank lights come on)?

And, with the new proposed lighting, there'd only be 6 hours with no lights on at all (no moonlights). Is this enough? Or would you just put the moonlights on late at night (12am - 3am) and not put them on in the morning before the mains come on?

 

[Atari]

My moonlights are on 24/7.. and the fish have no problems sleeping with them on all night. It only becomes an issue if you have too many LED's and it's very bright.

Stick with the photoperiod that works best for you.. don't worry about natural light etc.. The important thing is to keep a consistent cycle that's roughly equal to nature.. ie 10-12 hrs light per day.

 

[MarkW19]

Cool - so the moonlights are neither here nor there basically, they're just for me (so the tank is lit up a bit), they won't affect the fish at all if they're on, so the fish could be in complete darkness or have the moonlights on, they're not bothered?

It'll be 4 LEDs (9" apart). I can adjust the brightness by lowering the voltage of course - how will I know what the correct brightness to use is though? As long as it's "dull" and not "very bright" I should be ok?

I'll do 12.30pm - 12.30am, moonlights from 12.30am - 3am, then moonlights from 9.30am - 12pm.

 

[steve-s]

my LFS says only to rinse a portion of the media balls at once, and not do them all at the same time?

:censor: :censor: LFS :censor:

They most likely figure you are going to actually clean them when if fact all you are doing is rinsing them in removed SW from the tank. This will not result in any issues as the bacteria will remain intact. Only if scrubbing or rinsing in FW will bacteria levels be affected.

And, in The Concientious...it says that a juvenille regal or yellow tang can get along in a smaller tank, but he recommends a 50g (US gals.) tank for a growing tang (which is about 40 imp. gals.).

Perhaps if I switch from the regal tang to the yellow tang as my final fish (as it doesn't get as big) - what do you think?

The Conscientious Marine Aquarist is an excellent general reference book but on this point I completely disagree. A tang is a tang is a tang. Minimum space must be observed for any large fish and consideration for all fish kept must be considered. If you had the larger tank and it was just a matter of time to set up I would say go for it but the tank is a "future mabye" and nothing definate.

Cheers
Steve

 

[srgetz]

Greetings,
I disagree with the assertion that salt mix (via water changes) is reliable for trace elements to be at good levels. I followed that rule as well and had suffering corals. I took a sample to my lfs and found my Ca (calcium) was only 200! Yes I do biweekly 20% water changes. It seems some salt mixes simply do not do what they claim. Make sure if keeping corals you at least have the Ca level tested so you know what your salt mix is doing for you. Maybe your salt will be adequate, maybe not. IMO, a Ca test is good practice before getting any corals, not just before dosing. My corals are better now..I am dosing. HTH

 

[Atari]

The saltmix WILL keep trace elements in balance.. Ca is not a trace element IMO.

 

[MarkW19]

Steve: I'm just going to tip the balls out of the 2 media baskets (1 basket at a time) into a bowl containing the SW from my tank. Swish them round a bit with my hand etc. That ok?

 

[steve-s]

That ok?

Cheers
Steve

 

[steve-s]

Greetings,
I disagree with the assertion that salt mix (via water changes) is reliable for trace elements to be at good levels. I followed that rule as well and had suffering corals. I took a sample to my lfs and found my Ca (calcium) was only 200! Yes I do biweekly 20% water changes. It seems some salt mixes simply do not do what they claim. Make sure if keeping corals you at least have the Ca level tested so you know what your salt mix is doing for you. Maybe your salt will be adequate, maybe not. IMO, a Ca test is good practice before getting any corals, not just before dosing. My corals are better now..I am dosing. HTH

I would tend to disagree as far as minor elements are concerned The only time the saltmix will not keep things balanced is with major use elements such as Alk, Ca (as you said) and occassionally Mg. Those are definately something that should be considered in a reef tank but the need for additions will still depend greatly on whether there are any types of scleractinians or possible heavy coralline growth. With a softie tank, water changes should handle most (if not all) of the chemistry quite well unless the saltmix being used is deficient. Twice monthly water changes may also not be frequent enough.

Cheers
Steve

 

[srgetz]

Ca is not a trace element IMO

Atari, very informative, though of little interest in the discussion of whether or not to dose a reef tank / check Ca levels.

The saltmix WILL keep trace elements in balance..

OK, lets rephrase then...water changes alone may not be enough to maintain adequate Ca level; I have found this to be a fact. You do not dose or suppliment Ca? What salt mix do you use and what level do you achieve with it? I have been told that my brand, Crystal Sea, seems to be weak in this regard. I won't buy it again.

From http://www.northcoastmarines.com/salt_comparison.htm

"Crystal Sea®/Forty Fathoms© advertising showing an assay listing dozens of elements is a half truth. The elements listed are in the product. However, like other marine salts, they are found as impurities. Except for: 3.6 times more iron, 2 times more phosphate, 33% less bromide, some of the lowest levels of essential calcium and unbelievable variations from batch to batch vs. NSW."

 

[Atari]

You split up my reply so it looks out of context.. my point was that the saltmix is sufficicent to keep trace elements in balance, but I don't consider Ca to be a trace element and therefore I didn't think it was fair to include it when passing judgement. Ofcourse that's changing now with the advent of these new salts with super high levels of Ca. I still prefer the old fashioned methods though.. kalk or 2-part additives both work well.

Regardless, as Steve mentioned it's not something that needs to be considered right off the bat. I was managing fine with water changes untill I got a few LPS corals. BTW I use Kent salt and it held up quite well for a surprisingly long time.

Also, I hope you realise that site you posted is actually trying to sell their own product and therefore any claims they make about competitors should be taken with a grain of salt (pun intended).