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Old 10-09-2004, 03:59 PM   #71
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Did you buy that aquarium coral book? its 464 pages on all corals, what light,flow & what they eat

Cheers Shelton.
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Custom Built lid; 2 x T5 megatwin (4x39W Aquablue+); 4 moonlights.

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Old 10-09-2004, 04:00 PM   #72
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You won't see any fluorescing without actinic lighting really.

It's also probably best to stick to the softies until you upgrade lighting.

Honestly, the best thing you can do is go down to Oasis and just look at what they have and see if you like anything.. then either ask them about it (they are quite good with info) and buy.. OR write down the names and come back online to research if you prefer that.
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Old 10-09-2004, 04:07 PM   #73
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Shultz: book is on the way from Amazon! Not arrived yet though.

Atari: I've upgraded lighting - I now have 2 39w T5 whites, 2 39w T5 Actinics, and moonlights for the night. Will I see fluorescing with any of the corals I've mentioned? I've looked through what's available on liveaquaria.com, and from the ones I've seen, the suggestions made to me seem to be good ones. The really interesting corals are the hard ones so I see! :P But from the softies I think it's a good choice...

How about that brain coral I suggested (link above) - moderate lighting and flow - think it'll be ok?
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Old 10-09-2004, 04:13 PM   #74
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Ah okay.. must've missed that.. yep you have the same lights I do now and should be fine with softies and LPS.

If I was you I'd get a couple of easy corals first and see how they do. Once you know you can maintain good conditions then you can move onto ones like the brain and others.

My first choice would be green star polyps. Can't kill em if ya try and fluoresce beautifully under the lights we have.
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Old 10-09-2004, 04:46 PM   #75
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"The Kenya Tree Coral (capnella) relies less on the symbiotic algae within it, and depends more on obtaining outside food. Microplankton, marine snow, and dissolved materials should make up the bulk of its diet."
Does this mean it'll need quite a lot of effort to get food to it (the others mentioned rely mostly on nutrients within themselves apparently)? Would you stay clear of this steve - too much work?
IME, Capnella is not as hard as many would beleive. Although they do benefit from a more nutrient rich system, they will still do well with good lighting and the occasional feeding. Many similar type corals such as Nephthea and especially Dendronephthya are quite the opposite. No matter what though, do not aquire any coral you do not feel completely comfortable with caring for. If you're unsure, leave it be.

With the new light upgrade, many of the different LPS corals will also be possible. There are a few more delicate species but for the most part as long as water quality and chemistry are maintained, the corals are pretty much moderate care. Brain corals are typically a good beginning LPS species. They do best on a soft sandy substrate, med-low light and med-low water flow. Excessive light will casue bleaching and excessive flow will cause receding.

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Old 10-09-2004, 04:51 PM   #76
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Cheers guys.

Steve: I don't have a skimmer. Will the extra live rock and corals mean my water chemistry wont be as good as it is now (nitrates 0 etc.), especially with me adding 2 more fish in the next couple of months too?
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Old 10-09-2004, 05:05 PM   #77
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I don't have a skimmer. Will the extra live rock and corals mean my water chemistry wont be as good as it is now (nitrates 0 etc.), especially with me adding 2 more fish in the next couple of months too?
Adding the LR will help improve biofiltration and denitrification in time. The corals will not add any concern as far as added wastes to the system.

The fish added later on will depend on species and what you have at the time as far as other fish are concerned. As with any set up, as long as you do not exceed the tanks ability to cope with waste producing animals, it wil be fine. Basically try to stick to stocking guidelines within reason.

As far as the skimmer is concerned, it will not hamper water quality as long as you are mindful of water changes, feedings and waste producing stock. Without the skimmer though, I would definately suggest the use of the carbon previously discussed to remove coral toxins.

A bad habit of mine I guess but to clarify when refering to chemistry, I meant Alk, Ca and such for scleractinians. Water quality would be DOC, NH3, NO2, and NO3.

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Old 10-09-2004, 05:41 PM   #78
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Steve: 40g tank. I currently have an ocellaris clown and bangaii cardinal. Next, I'll be adding a 2" copperband butterfly and a month later, a 2" regal tang.

I plan to upgrade my tank the middle of next year (125gal). But, if the worst comes to the worst (I certainly hope it doesn't!) and my upgrade doesn't go through, or gets postponed, will the extra 2 fish negatively affect my tank in terms of water chemistry and it's ability to process the waste etc. of the 4 fish (and corals)?

And, you mentioned the corals will not add any concern as far as added wastes to the system. What other concerns could they add?
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Old 10-09-2004, 06:44 PM   #79
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I'll be adding a 2" copperband butterfly and a month later, a 2" regal tang.

I plan to upgrade my tank the middle of next year (125gal). But, if the worst comes to the worst (I certainly hope it doesn't!) and my upgrade doesn't go through, or gets postponed, will the extra 2 fish negatively affect my tank in terms of water chemistry and it's ability to process the waste etc. of the 4 fish (and corals)?
Wether you upgrade or not I would avoid these fish types with the tank size you have. Even if purchased as juveniles, it's just asking for problems. Once the upgrade has been done, then it would be okay. Until then I would suggest one or two smaller growing less aggressive/active species.

Quote:
And, you mentioned the corals will not add any concern as far as added wastes to the system. What other concerns could they add?
None really. Don't try to over analyze things too much, your just going to give yourself a headache

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Old 10-09-2004, 07:10 PM   #80
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Cheers Steve. What problems are the butterfly and tang likely to cause in my tank?
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