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Old 09-25-2003, 05:59 PM   #11
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as far as the dottyback is concerned, it can also be a very aggressive fish. you may find that it will pick on weaker species of fish. they're great for removing bristle worms
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Old 09-26-2003, 01:18 AM   #12
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I tried the freshwater dip on my Purple tang & it was great, the only thing is it will only emove the parasites on him, not the ones in the tank. By saying this, unless its a matter of life or death, then do it if not treat yout tank.
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Old 10-05-2003, 05:40 AM   #13
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If your purple and gold fish had a little black around its face and on its dorsal fin, it could have been a Royal Gramma Basslet. While they are often described as easy to keep, I have found them to be quite delicate and no longer buy them. Sad, because they have a neat personality and add beautiful flashes of color to the reef as they dash from hiding hole to hiding hole.

My "do not buy" lists includes all tangs. They are among my favorites but are so Ich-prone that I just don't have the time to deal with them. Bangaii (Kaudern) Cardinals are also on that list, though I've had really good luck with Pajama Cardinals.

As long as a tank is Ich-free, clowns do well and are fairly hardy. I've had several varieties, but I most enjoy watching my tomato and maroon clowns as they dote, fret, fuss and worry over their anemones. They are only aggressive towards other fish when they trespass too close to my clowns' anenomes; then they are just chased away. They will also vigorously shove rocks, snails, feather duster tubes and any other trespassers out of their space.

In general, I've found blennies and gobies to be most hardy -- and very entertaining.
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Old 10-05-2003, 05:53 AM   #14
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My personal experience with six reef tanks has been that a tank that has been cycled for 6 weeks will still be very raw and unstable. It seems to take about six months for a reef tank to stabilize. One sign of stabilization is for the tank to have gone through one or more nuisance algae cycles, to have begun growing corraline algae, and to have noticeably active live sand chock full of micro-critters.

Also, all my tanks are doing better since I switched from "store bought" filters to deep sand beds. More info on "DSBs" is available on www.wetwebmedia.com.
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Old 10-05-2003, 07:44 AM   #15
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My personal experience with six reef tanks


Would love to see some pics
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Old 10-05-2003, 07:44 AM   #16
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Old 10-06-2003, 01:31 PM   #17
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Lots of good advice here. A few things to add. Check your temp and may want to consider bringing it to 82 degrees or so. Do it slowly if your one remaining fish is still alive. IF it was ick, the higher temp will help to kill off the parasite.

Also, get your test kit right away and check your water quality. With the clown going first and then the Tang, I almost want to say that a stressful environment was at fault. The tank will be unstable for a while after the 'cycle' ends.

Also, when buying your next round of fish. Spend some time at the store. watch them for a while and make sure you see them eat. Eating is a good indicator of its general well being. Most here will suggest, putting a down payment on the fish and coming back for him in a few days to ensure he still healthy> I've never been able to do that (for various reasons) so I spend more time watching the fish in the display tank and his tank mates. If things look funky they probably are, so trust your instincts too.
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Old 10-06-2003, 02:57 PM   #18
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I have a feeling the introduction of those different species are a possibility. I would recommend getting a book for purposes of information and classification of the fish. There is actually 2 different types of ich: Ichthyophthirius multifiliis (freshwater ich) and Cryptocaryon irritans (Marine Ich). When the fish first starts to get symptoms you will notice little white or grayish spots. The fish will rub itself to rid of ich as implied earlier in this thread. Coloration of fish will fade, and the skin will cloud over. The parasite will the consume the fish and case tissue destruction, hemorrhages, inflammations, and skin disinegration. If not treated in time the fish will eventually die within 5 days. The ich consists of 4 round part memebranes from every white spot. It then drops off the host (fish infected) and falls to the bottom, then forms a capsale around itself. After 6-9 days more than 200 cells leave the capsale to find a new host. They then have 24 hours to find a new host or otherwise they die. Raising the temp will only benefit and slow the process down if the temp is raised a minimum of 83-86 degrees. This can very difficult for the fish and inverts to endure and must last at least 3 weeks.

On the good side of things surviving fish and ones that will shed the ich for no host will become, to a certain extent, immune to the disease and parasite.

Thats probably why my 2 clowns are still living even after 2 introductions of ich. Cross my fingers and knock on wood.
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Old 10-10-2003, 03:44 PM   #19
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Thanks everyone for responding to my question. Here is an update and more trauma. Took the hippo tang corpse back to the fish store and the guy said no ick on that fish. So we bought a lunar wrasse, love him. Things were going fine for two weeks. Went back to the fish store, our regular guy wasn't there (now I'm doing all the tests every week, everything was great) and we bought a little flame angel and a foxface rabbitfish. Now, one week later wrasse starts rubbing on the rocks (Oh No!) and the royal gramma basslet (that is what this fish is!) is rubbing, hiding up by the heater whenever the light is on and seems to have some white stuff on his belly. We will go to the fish store tomorrow. NO MORE FISH until I get this figured out. I guess we have the ick in there. My husband just about murdered me when I told him I was going to set up a hospital tank. He doesn't want another tank, but I really see no alternative. Two questions: what about a UV sterilizer, will that cure this horrible plague? And will all these four fish die? I can't stand to keep murdering fish! Thank you for your help.
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Old 10-10-2003, 06:45 PM   #20
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You need a QT tank to quaratine your new livestock for several weeks before adding them to the main tank. 4 -6 weeks is what is recommeded but some people (incuding me) only QT for 2 weeks. I had a small ICH outbreak, removed the fist to the QT tank and treated him for 6 weeks (hyposalinlty). He was fine when I put him back in the main tank. I'm sure the parasite is in the tank, just waiting for the right conditions to break out again, but I don't have a large enough QT tank for fallow the main tank for 4-6 weeks.

I run a UV but don't see how that can stop ICH. If it free floating inthe water column for only short period of it's live span.

You need to remove ALL fish from the main tank for 4-6 weeks while treating the fish in a QT environment. Barring that, the main tank is going to have ICH present and waiting to break out when conditions are right. At least that's the information I've gleaned from everything I've read. One of these days I'm going to get a larger QT tank so I can rid the main tank of this parasite. I just hope I don't stress the fish too much when I do this.
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