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Old 03-07-2005, 11:55 AM   #21
steve-s
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Originally Posted by runway1
According to the Burgess Atlas on fish, nitrates are a low level concern. Fish can easily tolerate as much as 100ppm with no problem. That's from a published marine biologist.

As for too much too quick, we're only talking about a single fish here. ONE fish, 2" long in a 55 gal.
Actually it depends greatly on the species of fish and how it's introduced to these kinds of numbers. Many fish kept in the hobby will not fair well at all in that kind of soup, especially a tang.

As for parasite possibilities, definately a concern. If you have been introducing new fish after one has died of unexplained causes without a proper fallow period, you end up continuing the life cycle even though the new fish is otherwise healthy.

You should allow the tank to go fishless for about 6 weeks. This will allow you the proper time to set up a QT and the parasite(s) if any in the main to die off. While the fallow period is ongoing, you can QT the next fish and straighten out any water quality issues in the main tank. Be sure the main is fed every few days to keep up the bacterial levels.

Cheers
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Old 03-07-2005, 11:59 AM   #22
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It seems to me that using the shot glass first and THEN the drip is backwards - it introduces the single largest change right at the beginning, before there has been any dilution/mixing at all. I use a drip until I've doubled the volume of the wateer, then the shot glass. Of course, I killed my bangghai cardinal this morning with a flashlight, so what do I know?

Of course, if the technique works, it works.
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30 gal standard 55 lbs LR, 60 lb live sand, 10 gal sump/refugium. Urchin skimmer, mag7 pump, 3 x 96W PC combination 10,000K/actinic bulb, 2 blue LED moonlights
SG 1.024, temp 79.5, pH 8.4

Livestock I added:

1 skunk cleaner. 12 hermits: red, scarlet, blue. 15 or so assorted snails. Discosomas, Ricordia, Rhodactis mushroom corals, chaetomorpha (sump), 1 feather duster, Montipora digitata, Montipora capricornis, Montipora hispids. assorted zoos, Xenia, Kenya tree coral, green Sinularia, green star polyps, branching hammer coral, bubble coral, Devil's hand leather. Yellow chromis, purple firefish.

Hitchhikers: the usual suspects :crabs, bristles, urchin, mantis shrimp (now in exile in mantis tank)

List of possible/likely newcomers:

Feather duster. PJ cardinal, Bangghai cardinal, Firefish goby, Clownfish, Neon goby, Yellow watchman goby, Orchid dottyback. Various corals.
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Old 03-07-2005, 12:18 PM   #23
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Acclimation of fish greatly depends on the salinity of the water the fish came in. If the salinity of the bag water is lower, the acclamation should be longer. Fish can easily withstand drops in salinity but increases is what will shock them.

The best means of introduction would be to measure the salinity of the bag water and then adjust the salinity of the QT it is being introduced to accordingly. The stress of increased salinity is removed from the equation. Then it's simpley a matter of chemical acclimation which can be done without dripping. One important note it to be sure the bag has floated for a good 10-15 minutes before opening. The closed environment will mean reduced pH and if the bag is opened before the temp has had time to equalize the fish ends up being shocked by a large increase in pH.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 03-07-2005, 04:23 PM   #24
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be sure the bag has floated for a good 10-15 minutes before opening. The closed environment will mean reduced pH and if the bag is opened before the temp has had time to equalize the fish ends up being shocked by a large increase in pH.
I never understood why we temp acclimated and then dripped when it seeeeeeeemed to be more effective to drip and then temp. I'm so glad that you explained the why of that. I thank you and my future fish thank you
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Old 03-07-2005, 04:57 PM   #25
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Good info thanks, Steve.
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