Go Back   Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community > Saltwater and Reef > Saltwater & Reef - Sick Fish or Coral
Click Here to Login

Join Aquarium Advice Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com
 
Old 09-17-2004, 12:43 AM   #1
Aquarium Advice Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 85
Send a message via AIM to lukasnca
freshwater dip question

Hi,

I have a fish that I think has Ich. I dipped him in freshwater for 3 minutes. Are the whitespots supposed to fall off the fish during the dip? I'm asking because they didn't...

I also have been keeping him in a QT with SG at 1.012 and the spots don't fall off -- is it possible that this is something else or is this normal?

Thanks,
Luke.
__________________

__________________
lukasnca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2004, 01:36 AM   #2
Aquarium Advice Freak
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Mays Landing, NJ
Posts: 499
I don't think anything will just "fall off"... I don't have much experience with sick fish but I believe freshwater dips are for parasitic conditions. You may just be adding to the stress level of your fish. I think a hyposalinity tank would probably work well but you will probably have to get some sort of meds. You probably will want to QT all the tank fish as well I would think.
__________________

__________________
MattP725 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2004, 01:58 AM   #3
Aquarium Advice Regular
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 85
Send a message via AIM to lukasnca
Well ich is a parasite.

I've read both good an bad things about fresh-water dips. They can increase stress due to the salinity change but they can also reduce stress by killing the parasites that are on the fish. I made sure that the ph and temperature were the same as the water that the fish were in and watched the fish in the dip.

Specifically I'm asking whether the ich parasites are supposed to fall off in the freshwater or if it takes time for them to fall off. And if they don't fall off does that mean that I'm dealing with something other than ich...

Thanks!
__________________
lukasnca is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2004, 02:10 AM   #4
Aquarium Advice Freak
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Mays Landing, NJ
Posts: 499
Ya your right... I actually read that it can burry beneath the skin so maybe that is why yours are not falling off. Meds and higher temps (although the temp thing said it wasn't as effective as meds) are the best remedies from what I see. They said less light and approx 84 degrees should help kill the parasites.
__________________
MattP725 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2004, 02:17 AM   #5
Aquarium Advice Freak
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Mays Landing, NJ
Posts: 499
"Trophont: This is the obvious stage, when you can usually see the white spots on your fish. In this stage, the parasite has made itself at home under the epithelium of your fish and encysted itself; the white spots you see aren?t actually the parasites themselves, but the fish?s biological response to the parasite that has burrowed into its skin. It?s really made of mucus and proteins that the fish has produced in an effort to rid themselves of the irritation. In this stage it is NOT susceptible to medications, both because it has encysted itself and the mucus/proteins the fish has produced protect it. "

"The most popular form of treatment is medications.

The majority of Ich meds contain one or more of the following: Malachite Green, Copper Sulfate, Formulin, or Potassium Permanganate. All the meds are poisons, malachite being the deadliest; the school of thought is the fish are less susceptible to the dangers then the parasites. However, some fish are more susceptible to meds, specifically scaleless fish such as plecos and loaches and one needs to be careful in dosing. It is important, when choosing an Ich med which will be used in a tank containing scaleless fish, to either find one which is formulated for scaleless fish or to half dose for twice as long. Do NOT use these medications on invertebrates such as shrimp or crabs as it will kill them. Either remove them from the tank or chose another treatment. Never use a copper treatment in the tank if there is inverts; it is near impossible to remove from the substrate.
Do a water change prior to starting treatment and remove the carbon from the filter media; not the entire filter. If the carbon is part of the filter cartridge, make a slit in the side of the filter media and remove the carbon.
Be aware meds will most likely destroy the nitrifying bacterial colonies. Be prepared to measure ammonia and nitrite levels, and reduce the levels if necessary, by water changes or ammonia/nitrite reducers (this is the only time you?ll see me recommend their use!). Water changes likely will affect levels of meds in the tank, and you may need to adjust doses to keep the meds at the levels needed to kill the theronts.
Once treatment is finished, you?ll need to remove the meds from the water. Best way to do this is to run fresh activated carbon in your filter for a couple of days.
** Do note, the directions on the meds are generic; if you remember from the earlier discussion ich has a life cycle with only one stage susceptible to meds. Do not follow the directions when it comes to length of dosing times as some will claim to eradicate Ich in as little as one dose. The first treatment will only kill a percentage of the parasites (remember the Ich life cycle). It?s better to continue treatment till 3 days after seeing the last white spot on your fish; this way you can be fairly sure you have eradicated all the parasites. "

I am sure you will get better advice from other members but I have also heard that copper in a QT is an effective treatment.
__________________
MattP725 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-17-2004, 12:17 PM   #6
steve-s
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by MattP725
hey said less light and approx 84 degrees should help kill the parasites.
Manipulating lighting will have no effect on C. irritans and the only thing increasing the temp will do is speed up the reproductive cycle. That is a myth perpetuated by findings in FW ich (Ichthyophthirius multifilis) and has no damaging effect on Cryptocaryon irritans. The optimum temp for C. irritans is actually 86° so I would avoid altering the temp. Elevated temps actually alter the pH of the fishs blood supressing their immune response making it much harder for them to fight off the infestation.

Cheers
Steve
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
freshwater

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Freshwater dip before QTing? spinman Saltwater Fish Only & FOWLR 7 06-23-2006 08:21 AM
Would a freshwater dip help??? redBernadino Saltwater Reef Aquaria 4 03-06-2005 01:22 PM
Help with freshwater dip please grimlock3000 Saltwater & Reef - Sick Fish or Coral 24 01-18-2005 11:11 PM
Freshwater dip gone bad? dwculp Saltwater & Reef - Sick Fish or Coral 5 10-05-2004 08:54 PM
freshwater dip question lukasnca Saltwater & Reef - Sick Fish or Coral 3 09-17-2004 08:22 AM







» Photo Contest Winners








Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 03:40 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.