HELP...

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future

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jan 6, 2006
Messages
18
Location
Arizona
i have a 65 gallon tank.. i believe i have ich and i dont know what to do.. i got an eel, a trigger and a hawkfish that seem to be ok (still eating) for now.. my puffer who looks really bad, a wrasse and a damsel who i havent seen eat in a couple of days... my puffer is discolored and my wrasse and damsel have white dots on them... wrasse doesnt move much just sits on the bottom of my tank... my damsel swims more then the others but sometimes sits underneath some live rock. it looks like hes eating but nothing like he use to. i just did a water change yesterday and another one today.. i tested my water the results i got were

really low ammonia, ph was about 8.2-8.4 and it seems like there is no nitrate or nitrite...

what should i do.

this morning i lost my other wrasse(different type) and my dwarf lion

what do i need to do to get a good aquarium and keep my fish alive
 
You had a eel, trigger, hawkfish, puffer, 2 wrasse, damsel and a lion fish in a 65 with NH3 in the water. 8O That is the start of your problem. How old is this tank? First you need to remove any traces of NH3 from the water. In desperate cases Amquel or similar will help. Are you are sure the spots are ich and not infections due to poor water quality? Can you post a pic of the spots? If it is definitely ich I recommend hypo. Looking at your fish list it is a good guess that you have no crabs, shrimp etc. Check this thread started just today.
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=70683&start=0
They are going to treat ich in a no invert tank with hypo.
Here is info on hypo:
http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hyposalinity.html
PS. you are going to have a really hard time maintaining water quality with that bio-load.
 
http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.php

The above site will help become informed on ich and how to deal with it. I am going to focus on what I can see to be stress factors that can lower a fish's immunity and make them more suceptible to ich and other ailments.

The 65 gallon tank is way too small for the population and some of the species you have. Triggers are large and highly aggressive predators and demand their space. Depending on the species of wrasse and their adult size, also need lots of open swimming space. Puffers also, depending on species, get fairly large.

"Really low ammonia" can be too much and start poisoning the fish especially if the pH doesn't go down. The ammonia needs to be under control and stable at zero.

Once you have the info you need and treatments are done, I'd suggest you think about what you can keep in the tank that won't outgrow it or cause stress among the other inhabitants of the tank.

Keep on changing water...about 10% once a week should be fine. If ammonia levels continue to show, then do the changes twice a week. If nittrite and nitrates are zero, you shouldn't need to do this for too long. Cut back on feeds a little until everything is under control.

How long has the tank been running with fish in it?
How much and how often do you feed?
What type of filter do you have?
How often and how much water do you normally change?
Can you list the fish in order of introduction, please?
What is the SG?
What temp is the tank set at?
 
How long has the tank been running with fish in it? for a month or 2
How much and how often do you feed? i feed my fish once a day, my eel every 2 or 3
What type of filter do you have? magnum 350 and a protein skimmer in the sump
How often and how much water do you normally change? 20-30% every 2 weeks
Can you list the fish in order of introduction, please? damsel first, then i pot my puffer and hawk, two weeks later, then the eel month later and the wrasse a week after the eel.
What is the SG? 1.020
What temp is the tank set at? 77-78
 
no i dont have any ammonia in the water, sorry thats what i ment
 
As requested, you are going to have to give a lot more information. Please post the exact numbers of your test results.
 
Along with the information that has already been given to you such as overcrowding etc, I will also add that you do not have near enough filtration for that tank even if it had a low bioload, which it does not. I will retract that comment if you say you have about 150 lbs of liverock in there, but I dont see that mentioned.
 
i decided to make a quarantine tank. im gonna get stuff to make it today, i cant just throw my fish in there? what do i do for the water? im gonna put my trigger and my damsel in there. can i leave my eel in the main tank with my hawk?
 
i've always wondered about eels, has ur eel ever tryed to get out that would be pretty freightning also how big is it?
 
I can see now what the problems are. First and foremost, the tank is too new for that many fish. It takes as long as you've had them to fully establish a nitrogen cycle and should only be done with a very minimal amount of fish if any at all. You can cycle a tank with just some live rock or fish flake food.

I think the tank hasn't had the chance to establish a cycle because of the amount of water changed...which, BTW, is too much at once for any marine unless there is a serious issue with water quality. 20% to 30% is too much of a sudden change. Marine animals are not adapted for such fluctuations in their environment like most freshwater fish are. This is where the difficulties of keeping marine are at...keeping the water stable. Though that much of a change will help keep ammonia from spiking, in order to establish a nitrogen cycle, it has to spike as well as nitrites. It's the nature of things when it comes to these little bio bacterias.

What I would suggest is for you to cut down the population. You can trade some out and get them back later if you so choose to. You could even trade them all out for six damsels you can return when the bio has finally established. Then you can go ahead and start populating the tank one fish at a time giving a two week rest in between to allow the new fish to establish territory and for the bio to catch up to the new waste load. Always introduce lesser aggressives first and check on adult sizes before purchasing an animal. Triggers should always be introduced last.

I would not put a trigger in with a damsel in a QT. That's like putting a cat in a bird cage with the bird.

The QT should be nothing but a bare bottom tank with a filter, heater, thermometer and a hide out for the fish. All new fish before introduction into the main system should be in this tank for at least a week, preferrably two. If any of the new fish get sick you can treat them right in the QT. A mix of tank water and new water should be used doing a 10% water change once or twice a week.

I know it's hard to let go of the fish you have already aquired, but it would be best for the system to just start all over or keep the damsel in there and take it from there.

If you are absolutely reluctant to do that, then the best thing to do is 10% water changes two to three times a week until the nitrogen cycle has established. You can double dose bio additives like Nitromax Marine every other day until the cycle has established. Also use Prime or Amquel Plus water conditioners to help protect the fish against nitrite poisoning. Feed very sparingly during this time. Every two days what they can eat in a four minute time span for the day and nothing more. Maybe even a little less.

Test the water once to twice a week and monitor the levels. Ammonia will spike, then as the ammonia starts to go down, the nitrites will spike. When nitrites start to go down, nitrates will start to rise. Finally everything should settle with ammonia and nitrites zero and nitrates should be maintained at no more than 20ppm in a mairne system that is not reef. Basic routine water changes for an established tank should be about 15% every two weeks. With puffers, eels, lions, and triggers, that would require a 10% water change once a week given the fact that they produce more waste in the system.

Goodluck and keep us updated.
 
hackteck said:
i've always wondered about eels, has ur eel ever tryed to get out that would be pretty freightning also how big is it?

All eels have the potential to escape. It's a must to make sure there is a secure lid on the tank. Same for wrasses, but instead of trying to slither out, they jump.
 
ok so i made a qt tank, my damsel and puffer are in it,


as for my main tank, i have my trigger hawk and eel, with 3 starfish, what should i do with my main tank now?
 
You should really get the starfish out of there. Starfish will not be able to tolerate ammonia levels. And if you plan on keeping the puffer and the trigger, the starfish has a chance of being preyed on. Other than that...allow the tank to cycle. I wrote this before. I'll just copy and paste it here again...

10% water changes two to three times a week until the nitrogen cycle has established. You can double dose bio additives like Nitromax Marine every other day until the cycle has established. Also use Prime or Amquel Plus water conditioners to help protect the fish against nitrite poisoning. Feed very sparingly during this time. Every two days what they can eat in a four minute time span for the day and nothing more. Maybe even a little less.

Test the water once to twice a week and monitor the levels. Ammonia will spike, then as the ammonia starts to go down, the nitrites will spike. When nitrites start to go down, nitrates will start to rise. Finally everything should settle with ammonia and nitrites zero and nitrates should be maintained at no more than 20ppm in a mairne system that is not reef. Basic routine water changes for an established tank should be about 15% every two weeks. With puffers, eels, lions, and triggers, that would require a 10% water change once a week given the fact that they produce more waste in the system.
 
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