Go Back   Aquarium Advice - Aquarium Forum Community > Saltwater and Reef > Saltwater & Reef - Sick Fish or Coral
Click Here to Login

Join Aquarium Advice Today
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com
 
Old 05-11-2006, 12:52 AM   #1
Aquarium Advice FINatic
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 801
Send a message via AIM to FishFrik
Help me set up a QT to treat Ich :(

My royal gramma and green chromis got ich. Hundreds of them! I want to set up an 20G QT tank to treat the all fishes with copper (i don't have a refractometer T.T) and have some question:

1. Bare-bottom?
2. What kind of filtration? I heard that I only need a HOB filter but what kind? Any suggestion on brand on model for a 20G? Do i need to put the filter pad in my 30G for a few day for the bacterias to colonize it or the copper is just gonna kill them anyway?
3. No LR or LS right? Just something for the fish to get cover?
4. What brand/kind of copper treatment should i buy?
5. Do i need to cycle the QT before using it?
6. How would i deal with the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate problem since there's no skimmer or AC?
7. So, all i need in the 20G is: HOB filter, SW with copper, PVC? Any heater or PH or light?

That's all for now. PLEASE respond quickly. I can't bare to see my fish suffer from those evil spots! Thanks a million to any help!

EDITED: I have a weird question. I was looking at the Coralife Turbo Twister UV sterilizer (the one that is rated for 125G). Would having a UV sterilizer get rid of the ich problem? Well, my thought is when the ich parasites fall off the fish, they will get sucked into the sterilizer and killed. The free swimming ones will also be killed. Would this logic work?
__________________

__________________
I'm one of those fishnutz, who are actually nutz.
FishFrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 10:17 AM   #2
AA Team Emeritus
 
austinsdad's Avatar


 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Accokeek, Maryland
Posts: 7,694
Yes. Bare bottom tank with a few pcs of PVC for hiding spaces. I've had a few pcs of rock deddicated to QT and copper for mine. I had a cheap skilter on one of mine. Using a CPR bakpak now on my 29g QT.

Maybe u can use water from the main to fill the QT, but yes, it'll have to be cycled or instant cycled with a filter pad or something from the main. I'm sure someone will be along shortly to tell you about seeding/cycling more definitively.

Gonna have to do water changes to battle ammonia in the QT. Get a new trash can maybe to store pre-mixed SW.

UV's only kill what swims thru them. It will not cure what you have, only help prevent. Also, your main may have to go without fish for 8 weeks. Ick cannot survive without fish hosts.

Also, didja know that a 29g tank takes up the same footprint as a 20g? If a larger QT, ammonia won't be as bad.
__________________

__________________
-Ray-

"Life may not be the party we hoped for but while we are here we might as well dance!"

austinsdad is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 10:44 AM   #3
AA Team Emeritus
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: VA
Posts: 3,391
Send a message via Yahoo to tecwzrd
Moved to “sick fish or coral” forum:

A 20 gal is sufficient but as austinsdad said the larger the better since you should also QT your clowns along with the other two mentioned and keep your main fishless for 8 weeks for any remaining parasites to die off. Performing Hyposalinity would be less stressful but since you don’t have a refractometer is generally not recommended.

As far as effective ich treatments there are a lot of brands to choose from but I’ve had good success with Kent RXP Marine Parasite Treatment which works without using copper.

Using filter media within the HOB (preferably one with a bio-wheel) from your main tank will greatly help seed your QT with bacteria and keep your levels in check. Get one in the 200+ gph range if using a 20 gal tank or 300 gph if using the 29 gal tank. I would definitely have a 30 gal trashcan with premixed SW on hand to combat nh3/no2 levels just in case.
__________________
-Micah-

If you haven't figured it out yet I like to BOLD links :P

Vote for AA at Aqua Rank
tecwzrd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 12:01 PM   #4
steve-s
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Pepper based remedies will not treat this problem with any consistancey. You are better off with either hypo or copper. The best copper you could get is Cupramine by Seachem and their corresponding multitest copper kit.

As far as water quality, water changes are your only means of control on a newly set up tank. Seeding with main tanks water is pointless although you can use it for the initial fill only. Water alone does not carry suffiecient quantities of bacteria to amount to anything. Do not use any type of sorbant resin or carbon to help either, it will just remove the copper. You also cannot use a UV with copper.

Cheers
Steve
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 07:43 PM   #5
Aquarium Advice FINatic
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 801
Send a message via AIM to FishFrik
austin, i have an old 20G and it doesn't have the same footprint as a 29G XD

I have a copper test already. It came with my test kit.

So, let see if i read this right:

_50G of water. 20 for the tank and 30 for WC. Do u think i will need more than 30G over a 8 weeks period? ($50)
_Barebottom with PVC
_HOB filter (What brand/model?)
_Seachem Cupramine ($6)
_No heater?
_My fish are very active, eating like pigs. Just that the spots look really awful. Since they are not really "suffering", can i try to cycle the QT tank before adding the fish so i don't have to spend so much on WC's?

*I have an idea: Since there will be no fish in my main, can i just use the skimmer that i have for the QT? Would this post a threat to my main? THANKS ALOT GUYS
__________________
I'm one of those fishnutz, who are actually nutz.
FishFrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 08:43 PM   #6
steve-s
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Quote:
Originally Posted by FishFrik
_50G of water. 20 for the tank and 30 for WC. Do u think i will need more than 30G over a 8 weeks period? ($50)
In an uncycled tank, be prepared for 50-75% daily water changes.

Quote:
_HOB filter (What brand/model?)
Not relavent, just get something with good flow and a biowheel. The biowheel being important.

Quote:
_No heater?
Yes, you need a heater. Stable temp means reduced stress. 78-80°, no higher.

Quote:
_My fish are very active, eating like pigs. Just that the spots look really awful. Since they are not really "suffering", can i try to cycle the QT tank before adding the fish so i don't have to spend so much on WC's?
The longer you wait the more opportunity the parasite has to multiply and more heavily infested the fish will become. Trying the cycle the QT would be pointless at this junksure, it would take too long.

Quote:
*I have an idea: Since there will be no fish in my main, can i just use the skimmer that i have for the QT? Would this post a threat to my main?
You should not use anything from the QT on the main once copper has been used. The risk of contamination would be risky.

Cheers
Steve
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 10:32 PM   #7
Aquarium Advice FINatic
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 801
Send a message via AIM to FishFrik
Quote:
In an uncycled tank, be prepared for 50-75% daily water changes.
Are u serious?! I am 100% sure that my dad is not going to put up with that... Wow... there goes my QT plan... Mayb i should try some other way. Man...

I don't know if this way would work, but i think i've got to try:

_Garlic soak food daily to strengthen their immune system. This would reduce the number of ich parasites reinfecting my fish.
_UV sterilizer ($100... i don't even know if my dad would agree to buying one) to reduce the number of free swimming parasites
_Skunk cleaner shrimp reduces number of parasites on LR and LS
_Good water parameters to keep fish in optimal state

After awhile... i guess the ich parasites will be killed off or my fish will build up an immune system that can't be infected by these devils. :'( *crosses my fingers*

I don't know if this is gonna work but... that much WC is not gonna do for my dad He's very busy on weekdays. Anyone has any other way to treat this problem?
__________________
I'm one of those fishnutz, who are actually nutz.
FishFrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 10:35 PM   #8
steve-s
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
What is in the main tank besides these two fish? Inverts, sand, LR, corals and such?

If you're willing to spend $100.00 on the UV, a refractometer will cost ½ that and solve almost all your problems. Depends on the above answer though.

Cheers
Steve
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 10:49 PM   #9
Aquarium Advice FINatic
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Houston, TX, USA
Posts: 801
Send a message via AIM to FishFrik
Check myinfo XD
__________________
I'm one of those fishnutz, who are actually nutz.
FishFrik is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-11-2006, 11:00 PM   #10
steve-s
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Well that idea's not going to work then, too many inverts.

I will say though that if using hyposalinity, you have many many more options for water quality control. Polyfilter and/or PURApads, Purigen, carbon, moving established biomedia from the main tank to the QT, occassional use of detoxifiers (Prime, Amquel etc) along with water changes. Even with these in place, you'll still need daily water changes, just not as much. With copper, none of these options are available.

If you go the UV route, you will most likely never be rid of the problem. It will come and go and fish will be lost in the process.

I should also point out that even on your main tank, you should be doing at least 10% weekly water changes

Cheers
Steve
__________________
  Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
eat, ich, set up

Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them on AquariumAdvice.com

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Do I treat for ich too quickly ? aka is it really ich ? joannde Freshwater & Brackish - Unhealthy Fish 4 07-23-2006 09:03 PM
How to treat FW ich. Marc118 Freshwater & Brackish - Unhealthy Fish 6 06-07-2006 10:44 AM
Please Help! How to treat ich!!!!! Tito2491 Saltwater & Reef - Sick Fish or Coral 3 04-02-2006 03:06 PM
Maybe ich? how to treat in a reef tank? Snoopybdb Saltwater & Reef - Sick Fish or Coral 8 03-28-2005 11:15 PM
Does this treat ich like it says? Rach101 Freshwater & Brackish - Unhealthy Fish 4 02-19-2005 03:15 AM







» Photo Contest Winners








Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:13 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.