Help my yellow tang :(

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jamal-188

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The middle/end of last week my new yellow tang was scratching on the rocks, Even thought I saw no visible signs of ick I was advised to start treating with hyposalinity right away as a precuation. A couple days later some white/brown fuzzy spots appeared on the top of his head. These spots have not really gotten any worse or better since then. However today I noticed some redish sports appearing on the front of his face. They are about the size of a pencil tip and round. It almost looks like something is eating his skin away?

Any advice to save this little guy. BTW, he is eating and otherwise seems to be acting normal.
 
im not saying this is it but my angel had a similar but just on fins it was Lymphocystis which is caused by a viral infection and is not treatable, with good food and good water conditions it should clear up on its own watch him closly for secondary infections and treat accordingly, affected fish should be QT preferably for 4 weeks after recovery, stress reduction and avoidance of skin trauma are essential to control. recovered fish that are stressed will often recrudesce, although some recovered fish appear immune to reinfestation. but me being a novice and all id like to see what the expepts think too hope this helps you anyways i wish your tang a long and happy life and good luck
 
cajunbaby75 said:
im not saying this is it but my angel had a similar but just on fins it was Lymphocystis which is caused by a viral infection and is not treatable, with good food and good water conditions it should clear up on its own watch him closly for secondary infections and treat accordingly, affected fish should be QT preferably for 4 weeks after recovery, stress reduction and avoidance of skin trauma are essential to control. recovered fish that are stressed will often recrudesce, although some recovered fish appear immune to reinfestation. but me being a novice and all id like to see what the expepts think too hope this helps you anyways i wish your tang a long and happy life and good luck
Agreed (and kudo's), the only thing I would add is watch for signs of advancing fungal infections. They too can be treated as cajunbaby75 suggests above unless advanced. Then you may need a broad spectrum anti-biotic but for now I would just ensure you follow the above advice and soak the foods in a good liquid vitamin.

The red marks are something to definately keep an eye on. They are typically the sign of a bacterial problem in the water. Quite often large repeated water changes over the next few days should alleviate the problem. Try that first prior to any meds.

Good choice on the hypo!! (y)

Cheers
Steve
 
Secondary bacterial infection frequently accompanies parasite infections such as ich. What is the salinity at now? The pH tends to drop in diluted saltwater and this also can cause hemorraging (red spots or streaks). What are ALL the water parameters including ammonia? You may need to use some Maracyn-Two or nitrofurazone but I need a lot more information from you to really help. What are all the symptoms, parameters and history of the tank? Do you quarantine all new fish 3+ weeks BEFORE putting them in the display tank?
Terry B
 
my yellow tangs bottom fins are clamped, what should I do? He seems to be swimming ok.
 
Terry B said:
Secondary bacterial infection frequently accompanies parasite infections such as ich. What is the salinity at now? The pH tends to drop in diluted saltwater and this also can cause hemorraging (red spots or streaks). What are ALL the water parameters including ammonia? You may need to use some Maracyn-Two or nitrofurazone but I need a lot more information from you to really help. What are all the symptoms, parameters and history of the tank? Do you quarantine all new fish 3+ weeks BEFORE putting them in the display tank?
Terry B

This is in a Q tank. The fuzzy white/brown spots appear to being almost gone and the red circles don't appear to be better or worse.

The PH was low, I didn't expect that. It was 7.7-7.8. I have a product which I can't actually find at the moment that says it brings PH up to 8.3. Should I use that or just daily 20% water changes for the next few days?

BTW, SG 1.009, Amonia/nitrite/nitrate are all 0
 
If ph is low alk can often be affected with it when performing hypo. I would check the alk first before adding a ph supp and then if necessary add a buffer. That will take care of both issues. If the alk is fine, a water change would be more effective all round.

Cheers
Steve
 
The alk is 2 meq/L, I guess I'll add a little of my Kent Superbuffer and then do a 20% waterchange in the morning and re-test tomorrow
 
Ok, after dosing w/ dKH buffer the alk has increased to 2.5meq/L and the ph is back in normal range 8.2 I got some pictures of the fish to see what you guys think. The flame angel in the tank seems to be having problems now. He has been hiding in the back the last couple days and hasn't really eaten anything. I may just be paranoid but it kind of looks like his lips are a little light colored and swollen. I've included some pictures of the angel and of the tang. I will probably be running to my LFS today, any medications recommended or should I just hold out hoping condition will improve on their own?

BTW, the marks on the top of the tangs head is where the brown/white fuzzy stuff started. That does look a little better now and the other marks are red colored and don't see quite as bright red as they were.
 
Have you been doing the water changes and fortifying the foods or did you opt for the med or just left things be?

If things are improving, the only thing I would suggest is continuing as you have except be sure to do the water changes to keep down DOC and other nutrient that will feed the bacteria.

Cheers
Steve
 
I decided to do the water change and add vitamins to food route. I'd rather not use medications unless necessary however I'm not real famaliar with fish diseases other than ick so I don't know at what stage I need to medicate or when/what/how symptoms/diseases will clear up on there own. Hope that makes sense :wink:

I got a few book around xmas time including the conscientious marine aquarist and have read the chapter on disease/parasistes etc. I wish the book would have more pictures of common diseases instead of just describing them, I have a hard time diagnosing problems.
 
The red splotchyness could be a bacterial infection or as Terry B pointed out from the low ph. Either way, what you have done has been effective. Unless the problem progresses, you do not need meds. The increased nutrition and vigilant water changes should keep yielding positive results. Make sure to monitor the alk/ph more often as well.

Cheers
Steve
 
The red does not look any better and it's been another week. Any particular meds I should try? I"m been doing the water changes, testing PH and using dKH buffer when the ALK gets too low. I"m not sure why this fish is not improving. He's still eating a lot of food and acting ok but the marks are not getting any better, they are not as bright red as they were however they seem to be a little larger than before.
 
Nitrofurazone would be the best recommendation. It is usually much more effective with internal problems that most regular broad spectrum anti-biotics.

Cheers
Steve
 
I would make a couple of LARGE water changes with well aged and aerated saltwater. This is often enough for the fish to recover. If the water changes do not help then you should treat the fish in quarantine with Maracyn-Two using the double dose suggested in the instructions for the first day EACH and EVERY day for 7 days. You can make a water change each day BEFORE you add the next dose of medication. Just be sure not to use raw saltwater. It is important that the water is well dissolved and aerated so you don't irritate the delicate gill tissues. You could try nitrofurazone (Furacyn by Aquatornics) instead but then you would not be able to make daily water changes. The correct dose for nitrofurazone is 30mg/gal dosing ONLY on the first day and leaving the fish in the medicated water 3 to 5 days max. The low pH is probably what brought this on. It is important not to let the pH drop below 8.0. There are plenty of alk and pH boosters available. I like Seachem products.
Terry B
 
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