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Old 07-18-2008, 06:33 PM   #21
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Reference was removed. Let`s not go that route again.
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Old 07-18-2008, 06:36 PM   #22
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Sand is a funny thing. when you stir it up and expose it to air for even just 5 hours you are going to have die off of bacteria and other critters and that can contribute to an ammonia spike. Because you lost bacteria (removes ammonia from your water) the bio load of the original setup was too much for the remaining bacteria to deal with. This is probably why you have 3.0 ammonia. Even small ammounts of ammonia can be toxic to fish. Either doing some MAJOR PWCs or removing the fish are you only good options to keep the fish alive. If you go the PWC route then you will need to make sure to let the new SW get to temp and SG before doing the change.

If it were me I would remove the fish from the tank and let the tank cycle for a while before putting them back.
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Old 07-19-2008, 03:49 AM   #23
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If you cannot remove the fish and you are stuck doing daily large pwc but you are still showing ammonia, then buy some Amquel+. That stuff has saved me in QT tank when 30% daily pwc were still not enough. It will bring ammonia and nitrite down to less toxic levels. But the daily pwc changes are key. I didn't realize fish would even still be alive at 3.0.
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Old 07-19-2008, 12:51 PM   #24
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Good point ryshark. I generally would just advise large (50%) waer changes on a daily basis to deal with the ammonia issue, but Amquel may help in the short term to keep the fish alive. The best course of action would be to move the fish to another tank that is cycled and can handle the increased capacity, like at a local fish store, while you cycle the tank properly over a period of a month or so. The next best thing would be large partial water changes on a daily basis (or even 2x/day) to keep the ammonia at or near ZERO. Using a product like Amquel+ might help between the water changes. All water changes should be be done with RODI water which is brought to the same temp, SG as the tank. The water should be mixed overnight at a minimum with 24 hours being best.

Please understand that everyone here is trying to help you and your livestock. Sometimes the written word is read differently than was intended when it was written.
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Old 07-19-2008, 01:04 PM   #25
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hi thanks for all your help sorry for yesterday i was having a bad day and may be i took it the wrong way, my fish are lively eating they all look fine its just the blue tang is acting strange also ive noticed my 2 clown fish fins/tails are coming away i was told it looks like a fish is picking on them ive have not lond added a pale blue tang and a lipstick tang im wondering if this could have anything to do with whats going on at the moment ill try post pic and thank you
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Old 07-19-2008, 01:10 PM   #26
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Blue Hippo Tang

I'll share what I know, but can someone please tell me how to start my own new thread?? I have a creature in my little tank. THX!

About your Blue Hippo Tang...You might want to remove him for now. I'm a very new sw tank owner (since January) and my tank is quite small. it's my practice tank. I had 4 small fish. I was told it would be ok to add a small Blue Hippo Tang to my well established little environment. He did rub up against the rocks which apparently is quite normal behavior and they also sleep on their sides (sometimes look dead). He was my favorite because of these characteristics (like a dog); shy but playful, but after 2 weeks, he got the dark blue spots, followed by the white salty look which was ICK. Once the ick was obvious, everyone in my tank had died w/in 1 week (except my damsel). I was told that stress causes this breakout and they should be separated as soon as possible. He was too big for my small environment. My mistake not removing him right away. I'm now back to a happy tank.
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Old 07-19-2008, 01:10 PM   #27
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heres pics
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Old 07-19-2008, 01:16 PM   #28
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hi thank you for your help im not sure how you post your own im new here i think you just write and put a title on sorry carnt be much help
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Old 07-19-2008, 02:26 PM   #29
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I moved the other post to it`s own thread in the ID forum. I sent you a PM Bonniemarie on how to post your own thread.

As far as the regal tang I thought Innovator brought up a good point about the pitting of the face. My suggestion also would be HLLE. I copied this off another site.


Head and Lateral Line Erosion (hole-in-head disease)

This disease can affect discus, other cichlids, and many saltwater fish. The fish develops holes in it's head and sometimes along its lateral line. Causes are unclear but as in any disease, stress and poor water quality likely play a role. The Manual of Fish Health states that HLLE is probably due to nutritional deficiency, especially of vitamin C. Fish in planted tanks rarely get HLLE, which supports the nutrition idea, since fish can nibble on the plants and obtain extra nutrition. Untergasser also observes that the protozoan Hexamita can be found in the lesions. Untreated cases can eventually prove disfiguring or fatal.

Remedy: First, make sure water quality is optimal and reduce stress. Stopping carbon filtration may help as it can remove nutrients from the water. Then feed a vitamin-enriched food, paying particular attention to vitamin C supplementation. For stubborn cases, some books suggest metronidazole (Flagyl) to eliminate Hexamita (a mildly pathogenic protozoan) from the lesions. Your mileage may vary with that one. Metrozole and Hex-a-mit are commercial medications with metronidazole.
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Old 07-19-2008, 08:25 PM   #30
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I honestly wouldn't worry about the hlle at this point in time, it is the least of your concerns. Concentrate on your water quality problems and I still advise the use of carbon as mentioned in my pm's
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