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Old 07-08-2004, 09:56 AM   #11
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again thanks , I got a guy from another forum that offered up a hell of a sump link that alm ost sovled that disicon. I' will most certainly buld the non -mh aspect of the light and I hope to build the mh part ,too.So much cheaper
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Old 07-08-2004, 10:17 AM   #12
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Quote:
1) I want to ge the tanbk out of my truck,but I need to put the 55 in the stand from behind bbefore I do this. I assume if I put it in the middle or to one side I can run both overflows from one sump? Is there a better way.

2)what kinda pumps will I need to get the overflows working properly?

3)When does halide heat become an issue enough to get a chiller? I can;t afford one so this will detirmine which kinda lioghting to get. I was think 2x400w MH and 2x 110 VHO 03's. You htink that will need a chiller if I add some fans etc....?

4)skimmer can run out of the sump right?

1) Place the sump in the stand how ever you wish. If the overflows dont have true unions pickup two from your hardware store. Plumb the overflows down a few inches below the stand top and install the true unions one on either side and then plumb the drain lines into your sump how you want. If you want to plumb them to either side of the sump or if you want to plumb them to the center it dont mater.

What size plumbing does the overflow have? 1"? 1.25" 1.5"? I would get either a pair of Mag 12's or if you want to drill the sump you could use an external pump like a pair of littlegiant 4-MDQX-SC pumps. One pump per return and have a SQWD on each return so you basicly have 4 return outlets that alternate. If you do the mags in a submersible setup then install a true union after the pumps so you can easily detach the pumps from the return plumbing should the pump need service replacement. Also install a ball valve above the true union on the return so you can throttle the pump if need be ( I dont think you will need to) or you can close the return off if you need to detach the pump.

When your water temp is steady above 83F during the day and fans dont cool the water down enough is when a chiller would be needed. For a 180 thats 6' long you need 3 MH bulbs if you go the MH route. Honestly I wouldnt do a 180 without MH's. Instead of going for 400W MH's go with 250W variety. The 250W MH's each centered over the three openings above the tank and if you want you could get a pair of 6' VHO ultra actinics to supplement the MH's. This will give you ample light for just about any softie and LPS and you could easily do SPS in the top half of the tank.

You should place your heaters as well as skimmer in the sump. If you go with a 55 gal tank you could put two glass dividers in the 55 to partion it out and form a sump/refuge. You could split it up so you had a 10 gal area on the left where water entered the system. Have a glas partion that was about 3" shorter than the55 is tall that allows water to flow over into the refuge area. Then install a simular glass partion on the right side where you have 5-10 gal for your return pumps. Then the middle area ~30 gal is a refuge where you can put sand and macro algae and your heaters. The skimmer can run on the left side where your water enters the sump.

If you lived closer I would loan you my services in helping you set this up.
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Old 07-08-2004, 10:54 AM   #13
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appreciate it I'm gonna go measure those ports now and see what I need to get it going. A guy at another local forum I frequent gave me this link I think I'll do my sump/fug this way in my 55 seems to be the best way no extra syphons etc....

http://www.sparklingfloorservice.com...ps/sump_f.html

when I plumb the intake for the fuge should I run it all the way up just below the overflow level so the over flow stays full of water or just leave a open port?
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:05 PM   #14
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Yep that looks great. A local person did something simular except his refuge is in the middle and his return zone is on the right. He has a topoff float switch connected to an RO unit to keep the water level in the return zone where it needs to be.

Quote:
when I plumb the intake for the fuge should I run it all the way up just below the overflow level so the over flow stays full of water or just leave a open port?
I would recommend for the overflows you construct a standpipe. See more info below.

http://www.dursostandpipes.com/
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Old 07-08-2004, 02:16 PM   #15
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ok that looks do able
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