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Old 04-13-2005, 07:09 PM   #1
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Hypo treatment?

Will hypo kill the ich or not? I have heard that it will not. If it wont what is the point on using this method of treatment?
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Old 04-13-2005, 07:40 PM   #2
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It will if it's done for a long enough time. I am currently doing this now, too, along with raising my temp to 86 or 87 degrees. The ich cannot live under these conditoins....only problem is that you have to do that for decent amount of time and inverts cannot take it, so it only works with FOWLR. I'm sure I'll get bashed for these comments, but it's worked for me.
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:07 PM   #3
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The best way to perform hypo is to quarantine the effected fish. A refractometer will also be necessary (hydrometers are not nearly accurate enough). Use the water from the main tank. Every 12 hours, do a 20% water change and replace with freshwater until the specific gravity is at 1.009. Maintain this specific gravity for 4-6 weeks. Keep an eye on your water quality (water changes will probably have to be performed daily). After the 4-6 weeks, raise the specific gravity slowly (.001-.002 per day) until it matches that of the display. HTH
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Old 04-13-2005, 08:09 PM   #4
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Quote:
am currently doing this now, too, along with raising my temp to 86 or 87 degrees.
C. irritans actually does best at temps around 86 degrees F.
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Old 04-13-2005, 09:41 PM   #5
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Quote:
C. irritans actually does best at temps around 86 degrees F.
Their lifecycle is sped up. Since they are being eradicated by the hypo they would... in theory... be eradicated faster by the increased temperature. Not sure that's the best course of action for the fish though. I'm doing hypo. My fish is responding well to it, but I've kept the temp at 80, which is where I keep my main. I anxiously await the day that I can begin returning him to a normal salinity.
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Old 04-13-2005, 10:18 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Phyl
Not sure that's the best course of action for the fish though.
It's not. While it may speed up the life cycle of the parasite it does nothing to kill it. Increased temps adversely affect the fish reducing it's immune response. It can leave an otherwise already unhealthy fish defenseless against a miriad of baterial and secondary infections.

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Old 04-13-2005, 11:27 PM   #7
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So using hypo for 4-6 weeks will kill the parasite
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Tank
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Wet/Dry w/ LR ruble
MAG-DRIVE 700 GPH
2x Maxi-Jet 1200 Power Head
PC Lighting
Remora pro skimmer
90 lbs LR
80 lbs of Carib Sea

Fish
Majestic Angel, Pink spotted gobie. Black percular clown, Coral Beauty, Lt. Tang, Mitratus B/F, Multicolor Dwarf Angelfish
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Old 04-14-2005, 12:29 PM   #8
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Yes, but do the full six weeks. There's a LOT of different opinion out there, but 6 weeks or two weeks after the spots fall off, whichever is longer, is what I've been reading from a multitude of sources.
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30 gal standard 55 lbs LR, 60 lb live sand, 10 gal sump/refugium. Urchin skimmer, mag7 pump, 3 x 96W PC combination 10,000K/actinic bulb, 2 blue LED moonlights
SG 1.024, temp 79.5, pH 8.4

Livestock I added:

1 skunk cleaner. 12 hermits: red, scarlet, blue. 15 or so assorted snails. Discosomas, Ricordia, Rhodactis mushroom corals, chaetomorpha (sump), 1 feather duster, Montipora digitata, Montipora capricornis, Montipora hispids. assorted zoos, Xenia, Kenya tree coral, green Sinularia, green star polyps, branching hammer coral, bubble coral, Devil's hand leather. Yellow chromis, purple firefish.

Hitchhikers: the usual suspects :crabs, bristles, urchin, mantis shrimp (now in exile in mantis tank)

List of possible/likely newcomers:

Feather duster. PJ cardinal, Bangghai cardinal, Firefish goby, Clownfish, Neon goby, Yellow watchman goby, Orchid dottyback. Various corals.
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Old 04-14-2005, 02:31 PM   #9
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Hmmm... I'm doing 4w from last spot and THEN I'll start raising the salinity back up slowly (3-7d). Sunday actually marks 4 weeks. I'm almost afraid to start the shift upwards (and even more afraid to dump him into my main, lol)! He looks so good now!

My information stems from PetForum's advice on how to run Hypo.
http://www.petsforum.com/personal/tr...osalinity.html
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Old 04-14-2005, 03:34 PM   #10
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SOme of the info I've been reading lately recommends using the water from your display tank to slowly raise the SG. This way, the fish will also be exposed to the chemical and planktonic elements of your tank, including the bacteria, in a slow, gradual way.
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30 gal standard 55 lbs LR, 60 lb live sand, 10 gal sump/refugium. Urchin skimmer, mag7 pump, 3 x 96W PC combination 10,000K/actinic bulb, 2 blue LED moonlights
SG 1.024, temp 79.5, pH 8.4

Livestock I added:

1 skunk cleaner. 12 hermits: red, scarlet, blue. 15 or so assorted snails. Discosomas, Ricordia, Rhodactis mushroom corals, chaetomorpha (sump), 1 feather duster, Montipora digitata, Montipora capricornis, Montipora hispids. assorted zoos, Xenia, Kenya tree coral, green Sinularia, green star polyps, branching hammer coral, bubble coral, Devil's hand leather. Yellow chromis, purple firefish.

Hitchhikers: the usual suspects :crabs, bristles, urchin, mantis shrimp (now in exile in mantis tank)

List of possible/likely newcomers:

Feather duster. PJ cardinal, Bangghai cardinal, Firefish goby, Clownfish, Neon goby, Yellow watchman goby, Orchid dottyback. Various corals.
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