I am at loss on how to proceed!

[Dr. Dai Phan]

Hello all,

Over 3 weeks ago, I bought a Power Blue and I QT it in a 10 gallon tank using Ick Attack (Kordon's). After a week without improvement from ICK I switched to Coopersafe. After a few days the ICK dissappeared but then returned full strength shortly after. Now, the ICK comes and go despite maintaining excellent water quality in the QT. The fish is alive and eating actively but I cannot get rid of the ICK for good. I spoke with my LFS and was advised to give a fresh water dip then transfer to the main tank right away. I was told that as long as he is in the QT, he will keep getting ICK. I was told not to worry about ICK getting to other fish because my water chemistry is excellent and all the other fish are thriving. I do PWC 20 gallons every three weeks (used to be two weeks) in my 125 gallon with 15 gallon-ish sump. Before I do PWC, I tested the water and all readings are ZERO including Nitrate. I just do not feel comfortable putting a fish in my main tank with white spots all over but then again, he may not be happy in that QT. Please help! Dai Phan

 

[asudavew]

Do you have a heater in the quarantine tank?

I wouldn't add a sick fish to my main aquarium. No way!

 

[thincat]

I got this out of the sick fish and coral section of this site:
Treatment for Cryptocarryon irritans and Amyloodinium occelatum:

• 1) Remove the fish to a quarantine/hospital tank
  2) Add copper sulfate at a level of .15 - .20 ppm, maintain the level for 3 weeks, even if the fish appears to be better in a few days
  3) In extreme cases, F/W dips (5-10 minutes) or formalin baths may be necessary to save the fish
  4) Do not return the fish to the display tank until it has been parasite free for 3 weeks

• A reliable copper test kit is required to maintain the proper copper level
• Copper sulfate precipitates out of solution, fairly easily, additions will be necessary everyday or every other day
• If you use a form of chealated copper, a chealated copper test kit will be required

If you follow this your fish should not be reinfected.

 

[melosu58]

IMO hypo works much better. Here are some articles on the ick so you can understand better.

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part II by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com

An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure: A Quarantine Tank for Everything by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com