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Old 10-12-2005, 05:52 PM   #11
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A floating hydrometer will work just fine as long as you compensate for temp. The main concern is swing arms which you obviously don't have. I would target 1.009

The Superbuffer DKH will work very well at helping to maintain the pH. Your plan for the sponge sounds fine as well. Be sure the QT has some PVC pieces in place before adding the fish if possible. It will offer hiding places as well as aditional bacterial surface areas.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-12-2005, 10:53 PM   #12
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The need is that you must have something that is accurate at that salanity. Your hydrometer might have worked because it was lab grade and probably as expensive as a refractometer.

KG
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Old 10-13-2005, 03:29 PM   #13
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I'm bumming out right now becuase I see the fish are suffering and can't see any way of getting them out the display tank. The minute the net goes in, they hide in the LR.

I just don't have the fortitude to dismantle 100#s of LR to get them out.

I've reached the end of my rope....

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:12 PM   #14
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Mike,

I had to remove all my rock (180#) to catch the fish. I used two 20 gal rubbermaid containers. I partially filled them with tank water then added the rock I added water from the tank as needed to keep the rock covered. I was then able to scoop the fish from the tank with a large net. I thought I had lost my bicolor blenny in the process. Seems he tucked into a rock crevice and made the trip to the rubbermaid container. He was sitting in the bottom of it when I was done putting the rock back in the tank.

This also gave me the chance to re-aquascape my rock.
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:14 PM   #15
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Quote:
I just don't have the fortitude to dismantle 100#s of LR to get them out.
No corals? Then you are gonna need to.
There is a way to make it easier. Get a big (new) garbage can and remove as much of the rock and water as you can into it. Get 2 if you have to. Basically, if you remove their real estate, they are much easier to catch.
You can even partition half of the tank off after doing this to make it easier yet.
Its know fun, I have had to do it twice.
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Old 10-13-2005, 05:15 PM   #16
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Ah, cmor1701d beat me to it.
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Old 10-13-2005, 06:28 PM   #17
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why not try kick ick? it worked great for me. No water changes no mess no fuss just follow the directions and in 2 weeks you are ick free. I was any way. I have no space for a qt or hospital tank. I have gotten ick twice once in my 54 corner then in my 75. I used kick ick both times and it worked twice.
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Old 10-14-2005, 07:41 AM   #18
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Well, hearing your stories gave me the push to get this done. Last night my wife and I did the move. I didn't have to pull out all the LR which was nice. Bad thing I lost one of the Bannerfish. it was looking pretty bad 2 days ago. Kind of darkening up on the white parts of its body. Then when I started pulling out the LR, we couldn't find the Banner. He just disappeared, much like a B. Cardinal that ate a PH months ago. I can only surmise that the E. Crabs made quick work of the Banner.

In any event, all the fish are in the 30 gal QT with 2 6" PVC fittings to hide in and the wet dry sponge block with embedded PH, as well as a 10" sponge that I had used to quiet the skimmer splash. I''m thinking I should have adequate bio filtration.

I plan on swapping out 5 gallons of tank water with buffered RO water tonight to start lowering the SG.

I'd like to replace the lost Banner and was wondering if now would be a good time to get it and place it in the QT with the others. I'm thinking it might be a problem with the 1.009 SG by the time i get the new fish.

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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Old 10-14-2005, 10:44 AM   #19
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Leave off any new additions until you have completed with this unfortunate task. You will have much better success keeping the bioload as managable as possible.

There is however no reaon why you cannot set up a second QT though. In that respect, it would allow you to introduce the new/old fish at the same time.

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Old 10-14-2005, 11:02 AM   #20
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Thanks Steve. Guess I'll hold off on anohter Banner til the Hypo runs its course. The thought of running and maintaining THREE tanks at once is too much to bear right now.
~~~~~~~~~~~
You mentioned not to reintroduce the sponge block back into the main tank after Hypo. Can you tell me why? Wouldn't all the ich parasites be killed after the 6 week hypo?

Thx

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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