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Old 10-09-2005, 12:14 PM   #1
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I knew things were going too good - it's ick

Of all the advice given and taken, the ONE thing I did not do was QT my BHT. And I'm paying for it now.

After 2 weeks in the display tank, it appears the BHT has ick. Tiny white spots on the body. He's kind of listing around the bottom of the tank and the Bannerfish will sometimes pick at his body. To tell the truth, I can't see these white spots being that I'm very nearsighted, but my wife can. She's also seeing the spots on the two Bannerfish.

What to do first? Should I be setting up the QT now? I'm dreading the thought of having to capture my entire stock and QTing the lot.

Thx

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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Old 10-09-2005, 01:26 PM   #2
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Set up the QT immediately. Get all the fish into the QT and start a Hyposalinity treatment. Be prepared for daily (or 2x daily) water changes to keep up with bio load. You don't have time to get a bio filter going so pwc is all you for now. Get a filter going on the QT tank to help, though it will take a while to develop. I keep some filter material in a corner overflow should I need it in the future.

I did this a few months ago. Had both a 12 and 30 gal QT set up and saved them all. I believe my tank is now free of the parasite but you never know what may bring it in.

Good luck.
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Old 10-09-2005, 02:58 PM   #3
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should I make up the QT water from new RO, or pull some out of the dispaly (ie. infected) tank

Thx

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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Old 10-09-2005, 08:44 PM   #4
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Doesn't matter but I usually use tank water and do a pwc in the main tank at that time.

Also, some advise from Steve-s (one of the advisors I always listen to!)
"When dropping the salinity using RO water, it has a fairly low pH and you are diluting the chemistry of the SW. It is very important to adjust the pH of the new water being added so it does not dilute the chemistry of the treatment tank. It is also necessary to test pH/alk daily to ensure it does not drop due to the diluted conditions of the water. "
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Old 10-10-2005, 06:12 AM   #5
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Filling the QT initially with the main tanks water is fine but be sure all water changes in future are done with newly prepared SW that has been aged/aerated a day ahead. As for the rest, cmor1701d is spot on ('scuse the pun) 8)

Cheers
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Old 10-11-2005, 10:07 AM   #6
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I am in the process of setting up the QT today. I know the clock is ticking.

I plan on setting up a 30 gallon QT. I know I'm behind the 8 ball in terms of bio filtration, but was wondering if I could rig up soem kind of bio filter using the sponge block in the wet dry and a powerhead? Seems that the sponge block has been in the tank for weeks and should be loaded with bacteria.

If not, how many gallons of water should i be changing every day?

Thx

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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Old 10-11-2005, 06:40 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinman
but was wondering if I could rig up soem kind of bio filter using the sponge block in the wet dry and a powerhead? Seems that the sponge block has been in the tank for weeks and should be loaded with bacteria.
That is actually a good way to transfer sufficient bacterial mass when you don't have a cycled QT going. It should work well, just remember it cannot go back to the main tank. If you are using a HOB or canister for the QT, just add it in there.

Quote:
If not, how many gallons of water should i be changing every day?
It won't be uncommon to need daily water changes (25%+) even with a cycled tank, sometimes 2x daily. Really comes down to the fish load and treatment chosen. Meds especially can impact the bacteria's ability to reproduce. With the changes in pH caused by hyposalinity if not monitored properly, it can also cause bacterial decline.

Which treatment did you opt for?

Cheers
Steve
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Old 10-11-2005, 08:31 PM   #8
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My planned ttreatment is hypo only. With regard to the sponge block from the wet dry, my plans are to carve out an area on the sponge and imbed the powerhead (Rio 1100) on the intake side in the sponge. I seemed to recall seeing this technique on a recent web surf.

As of this writing, the QT is powered up with the salt mixing and the temp. @ 78F. I've got a Rio 1100 keeping things moving.

I'm worried about this pH issue with the hypo treatment. Can I use the Kent superbuffer dKh to adjust my pH?.

Thx

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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Old 10-11-2005, 09:30 PM   #9
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Yes. Good idea. A Seachem ammonia alert badge will also help give you a heads up when a water change is due. Be sure to put them in the tank at regular SG and then lower the SG gradually. You'll need a refractometer to get it accurate. Hypo is about 1/3 that of NSW. Good luck!

KG
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Old 10-12-2005, 07:26 AM   #10
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I don't see the need for a e refractometer. I think the big push for these is due to the low accuracy of your normal LFS hydrometers.

I was lucky to have a Lab grade large scale hydrometer that i used in my beer making to check the beer at bottling time. Even with my eyes, it's easy to read the scale.

Here's the one I have:

http://www.williamsbrewing.com/PRECI...METER_P529.cfm

I don't see why this wouldn't work, as long as you adjust for temp. This one is calibrated at 60F.

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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