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Old 09-25-2011, 09:42 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zoom760 View Post
ok. keep in mind most people on these forums are providing you their opinion not facts.
fact:
-qt water should never come from ur dt or you will transfer disease
-qt will be empty; only fish & filter
-medicate with quik cure or formalin based med from lfs
-med is not 100% depending type of disease and ur fish willpower to survive treatment. process is 50/50
-run a internal filter or powerhead for oxygen. do not use carbon in filter

btw, i just completed a qt 2.5gal with 2 clownfish and 1 chromis for 1 month. only 1 clownfish and chromis survived treatment that i have returned to dt with inverts but note at 3wk mark nemo started eating again which was a good sign. if you do research; disease will approx take 2wk to die off after its dormancy and that is why you'll hear people say they wait 6-8wk with no fish in dt. if you have a fish in dt that fish is the carrier

good luck
Those are NOT facts, they are no more than an opinion.

DT water is the ideal water to use for a QT because it gets the fish used to the water before they are in it. This is a very good way to reduce any stress when they are finally moved to the DT.

A completely empty QT is a very good way to stress fish out, which causes illness. These are wild caught fish that want rockwork to hide in and on. Leaving them in a bare tank as their 'welcome' to your home is like tossing a kid in a concrete room and saying, 'congratulations, you've been adopted'.

I would not use meds unless you know there is an issue. Preventatively using meds (which do stress fish, even at proper doses) is a good way to stress them and create resistant pathogens.
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:27 PM   #32
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do your research
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:31 PM   #33
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http://www.dfs-pet-blog.com/2010/01/ich/

here is a good source in how to treat marine velvet and saltwater ich

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-0...ture/index.php

this is a better read. good luck
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Old 09-25-2011, 11:46 PM   #34
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Well, drsf&s, I stand corrected.

Regurgitating info from other hobbyist sites isn't research. Again, thank you for sharing an opinion, but it is not fact.
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:56 AM   #35
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redsea, I feel bad for you lol. Too many opinions, which is what I ran into as well

I tell my opinion to you based on experience, as I am currently treating fish exposed to ich. I found this link pretty helpful:
Curing Fish of Marine Ich

I know it's a lengthy read, but it's great info. I guess you'll have to decide which way is right for you. The best thing you can do is educate yourself on the ich/white spot disease itself, and that will clear up alot of confusion. If you have any questions, feel free to keep asking

**if it helps, remember: low salinity, great food, low stress
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Old 09-26-2011, 01:03 PM   #36
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One thing we need to realize is that there is no one way to do things in this hobby. Let`s try to stay focused on this thread and give our opinion and experience and respect the others opinion and experience also. We need to help the OP here. Please keep that in mind. Thank you.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:26 PM   #37
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The Steven Pro articles I found helpful. Not sure if that is the place I read it or not but I did read longest ich stayed in it's cyst form was around 60 days. That is where the thought of leaving DT fishless for at least eight weeks probably comes from. So whether you do hypo ( a refractometer is best to have for this for acuracy) or the copper, main tank needs to remain without fish for two months at least for best chance of ich die off in main display. I did move a bio wheel and water from main tank to help cycle my QT. I was doing 25% water changes every day but found it too much as my ammonia and nitrites would not drop. Lost two fish. So I stopped water changes and used Stabilty for a week and everything was good. I am now in my second week of Cupermine treatment and all fish look and act great. No white spots and no flashing or scratching. So I will add the carbon back in this week and monitor fo another two weeks and hopefully fishies will be going home. From now on everything wet goes to QT for a month before adding to display. Now I need to research how to keep dragonets and blennies and such alive in QT with nothing in it.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:49 PM   #38
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Or...just keep water quality up, feed well, and use garlic.
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Old 09-27-2011, 10:59 PM   #39
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Would adding prime into the water help at all? On the bottle of prime, it says that it provides the fishs' slime coat.
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Old 09-27-2011, 11:20 PM   #40
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No. Fish are more than capable of making their own slime coat. High quality food and water will prevent and even fix 95% of the problems you will ever have.
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