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Old 10-05-2005, 10:53 PM   #11
steve-s
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sati
steve-s, are you saying a hydrometer is essentially useless?
It has it's uses I guess, in terms of this treatment though most definately useless. It's one of the leading causes for the treatment failing.

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Steve
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Old 10-05-2005, 11:10 PM   #12
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I have only freshwater fish at the moment. I was going to buy a hydrometer only to test salt during ich treatments. I'll save myself a couple bucks if I could get by just as well intuitively
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Old 10-06-2005, 12:20 AM   #13
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BTW, you advised to check salinity, pH/alk daily. If the salinity is low, for example, that means I have to prepare a 5G bucket of aerated SW?

also, could salinity fluctuate depending on the temp of the tank (external factors of temp change)?

Whenever pH/alk goes down, does that mean it requires a water change to bring it back up? Or do those products just need a little dissolving in a cup or something?

A few have stated to not meddle with the water too much, besides salinity and temp, in order for water parameters to be stable. Would fish be less stressed out by getting used to lower than usual pH, rather than raising the pH all the time?
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Old 10-06-2005, 11:23 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by archie1709
BTW, you advised to check salinity, pH/alk daily. If the salinity is low, for example, that means I have to prepare a 5G bucket of aerated SW?
As water evaporates, the salinity will increase so you will need to add RO water.

Quote:
also, could salinity fluctuate depending on the temp of the tank (external factors of temp change)?
No, the temp would only affect the instrument used to measure it not the level itself. An ATC refractometer would be unaffected, a hydrometer would be affected.

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Whenever pH/alk goes down, does that mean it requires a water change to bring it back up? Or do those products just need a little dissolving in a cup or something?
A water change is always a good first step. Just be sure the salinity and temp are the same as the tank. More commonly though a good reef buffer is needed. Preferabley something containing borate.

Quote:
A few have stated to not meddle with the water too much, besides salinity and temp, in order for water parameters to be stable. Would fish be less stressed out by getting used to lower than usual pH, rather than raising the pH all the time?
Definately not. Maintaining the water parameters and chemistry are very important. Low pH can lead to many health issues, primarily acidosis.

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Steve
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Old 10-06-2005, 08:31 PM   #15
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No offense, but you have a lot of fish for a 55. The only true way to get it out of your ST is to leave it fallow (fishless) for six weeks. That will ensure that the parasite dies. You could move all of those fish to two or three QTs and treat with hypo while you wait for the six weeks. You'll have to get a refractometer to be sure that you're at 1.009 SG. I would forgo any copper treatment since it will not allow you to add inverts at a later time. Also, be sure to QT anything that goes into your tank if there's even the remote possibility it may have been in a tank with fish. Good luck!

KG
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Old 10-07-2005, 11:23 AM   #16
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Well the main thread I posted was that I don't have a QT and I just did salinity. Thank you though, I understand that what you are telling me is the right way. I read articles about it as well. I was wondering if there are other ways that are successful out there for treatment that's reef safe. I don't have a reef tank but reef safe means you can do the treatment in the DT. I don't know of any, at this point.

I have been feeding garlic to the fish since the only one who has spots now is the hippo. I want to hopefully encourage their immune system over the course of the days while I try to figure out how to tackle this one

http://www.marineaquariumadvice.com/...and-Garlic.htm
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Old 10-07-2005, 10:24 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by archie1709
I have been feeding garlic to the fish since the only one who has spots now is the hippo. I want to hopefully encourage their immune system over the course of the days while I try to figure out how to tackle this one

http://www.marineaquariumadvice.com/...and-Garlic.htm
More commonly this will not cure the problem. Moreso it helps the fish build a resistance and reduce the amount of trophonts that attach to the fish. What you generally end up with is an equillibrium where the parasite and host live in unison, aquired immunity if you will. It isn't actually eradicated and can come back at any time.

Garlic definately helps as an aid to an already proven cure but it's long term affects as a permanent treatment have many short comings and is only marginally effective.

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Steve
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Old 10-08-2005, 11:26 AM   #18
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Just temporarily until I can hear from others out here of any success with any other treatment that's reef safe.
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Old 10-08-2005, 01:00 PM   #19
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Unfortunately with "reef safe" treatments they are not consistantly effective. Sometimes they work and sometimes they don't, they simpley aren't potent enough. I know it's frustrating but that is why the methods constantly being outlined are always at the forefront of recommended treatments. They are 100% effective when performed correctly.

You could get 10-20 suggestions for various treatments that may have helped a few but it does not guarantee it will work for you.

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Steve
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Old 10-08-2005, 04:48 PM   #20
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I guess what you expect to hear is that "sure there's this great new product that will kill only one specific invert and not any other inverts in your tank". Sorry, it doesn't exist. Hyposalinity, copper, and a technique called the Three Day Transfer Method are the only things that are proven to erradicate ich. Suggest if you really want to kick the ich, that you purchase a tank for QT, remove the fish, treat with hypo, leave the ST fallow for six weeks, and follow strict QT procedures in the future to prevent reintroducing it.

KG
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