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Old 01-14-2004, 02:39 PM   #11
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Marine Ich has a life cycle of a month or more, hence the general recommendation to leave the tank fallow for a 4-6 weeks. . .

From Bob fanners article at http://www.wetwebmedia.com/ichartmar.htm

Life Cycle:
Cryptocaryon irritans is a parasite with a direct life cycle, i.e. requiring no intermediate host like an invertebrate to complete its life cycle. The time per generation is temperature dependent, ranging from a few days for tropical to a week or more. If one considers the possibility of "resting stages", marine ich can wait out weeks to months before seeking out fish hosts.

A) Starting with a stage feeding (call trophonts) on its fish host. These are embedded below the epithelium (upper living skin layers) of host fishes, under copious amounts of mucus, not affected by chemical treatments.

B) Protomont stage leaves the fish, drops to the bottom and forms a resting/developmental cyst (tomont) stage persisting for 3-30 days generally. Becomes attached to and transmissible by any wet object. For about a day at 78 degrees F. reproduction occurs by binary fission; that is, by each cell dividing into two, possibly producing two hundred individuals (then called theronts). These encysted stage individuals are not affected by chemical treatments.

C) After 3-7 days, as tomites or theronts they break out of the cyst (typically at night, when reef fishes are often "sitting on the bottom") and swim into the water in search of a host fish, in a to several hours to a day or two at elevated temperatures they must find a fish host or die. If the parasite is lucky (and its host fish not so) it will find a host and burrow into its skin or gills. This "free-living" swimming stage is the opportune moment for chemical treatment.
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Old 01-14-2004, 11:18 PM   #12
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As long as you don't have any inverts, I've had much success with lowering the specific gravity to 1.018 (gradually) and treating with copper. Lowering the SG will make the environment unfavorable to invert/parasites and the copper should knock it out. I've also had success with malachite green and fromaldihie so long as you are a fish only tank.
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Old 01-15-2004, 12:22 AM   #13
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Unless you lower the SG to 1.009 and keep it there it wont have much effect on the parasite. At elast from my readings that's what hyposalinity treatment is all about. Then you don't need copper. It worked for me, but I caught it very early on a purple firefish.
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Old 01-15-2004, 09:09 PM   #14
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Its less stressful for the fish to stay at 1.018 and add a medication than to drop salinity completely. It makes your meds more effective because the parasite is in unfavorable conditions. I've had an excellent success rate only having to do it once in a year. I highly recommend it because I was so pleased with the results and I've witnessed its use in large aquariums (over 30,000 gal).
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