Ick/White spot

[FishAddict413]

I recently got a flame angel, hippo tang and lemon peel angel. They all came down with ick/white spot and I quarantined them. I tried the low salinity method WITHOUT a refractometer, but with a basic hydrometer. Over the course of 2 days I dropped the salinity to about 1.012. After 2 more days they looked better but then after 2 more days, I noticed a few new spots and they are getting worse again. Should I raise the Salinity again to normal and do copper treatment or continue low salinity treatment and see how it goes? Thanks for your comments in advance.

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

Leave the salinity where it is, and buy a refractometer. Then follow these directions:

ATJ's Marine Aquarium Site - Reference - Hyposalinity Treatment

1.009 is the magic number - no more, no less. For that reason, it's crucial you use a calibrated refractometer.

 

[CaptainAhab]

Did they come down with ich while in your main tank and then you threw them in the QT? If so, your main tank is infected also. If there are other fish in there they should be removed to QT as well and the main left fallow.

 

[FishAddict413]

HELP!! None of my LFS has a refractometer! Now my dilemma is I have my fish in a 1.012 salinity level and have no choice but to use copper treatment. But what level of copper would be ok? I have read that low salinity effects the strength of medications. PLEASE HELP!!

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

Your LFS won't even offer to bring one in for you? So much for local service!

Try drsfostersmith.com, marinedepot.com, premiumaquatics.com, ... shoot, just about any online place will have them.

Do NOT use copper at low salinity. Either do one or the other, but not both. My vote would be to leave the fish at the existing salinity until you get a refractometer, then continue with the hyposalinity treatment. Otherwise, SLOWLY increase the salinity over many days as noted in that link I gave you, until you're back at your normal tank salinity. Then do the copper treatment. But even to slowly raise the salinity by 1 or 2 points a day is going to be tough without a refractometer.

 

[melosu58]

Moved to the sick fish forum.

 

[FishAddict413]

I ordered a refractometer online but it will take 10 days to get here at least. What do you suggest I do to make my fish hang on as long as possible? Thanks.

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

Hmmm... too bad you didn't go for express delivery or something to get it to you sooner. 10 days? Well... I guess the best thing you can do is keep the guy at the same salinity until it arrives. Are they still eating and acting normal?

 

[FishAddict413]

They are all eating but the hippo tang is scratching himself against the rock quite often.

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

Without a refractometer, I'd say the safest thing would be to just keep everything the way it is until you receive it. I'm curious if anyone else here has any thoughts. If this was my tank, that's what I'd be doing.

Also... just an FYI - if you go the copper route, you'll want to pull that rock out of your QT that the tang is flashing against. Any calcium based things (sand, live rock, etc) will mess with your copper concentrations and make it tough to keep a stable amount of copper in suspension. Or so I've heard...

 

[FishAddict413]

I lost my lemonpeel this morning. I did a 50% water change afterwards to hopefully help my other two left. They are still eating but the spots are getting more frequent on the hippo tang. I hope they last.

 

[CaptainAhab]

It might be time to try a FW dip for each of them, then back in the QT. It may buy you some time until you refract gets in.

 

[FishAddict413]

I FW dipped them. How often can I do this? I have to do all I can for a week to 10 days until my refracto gets here. I also read that Hyposalinity doesn't work on advanced stages of ICH. Is that true? Thanks.

 

[Kurt_Nelson]

Hypo will kill the parasite... period. Whether or not the fish is strong enough to survive is probably the real question. So I can see if someone puts a fish into hypo that has endured several cycles of ich, each one worse than the previous, someone could say that hypo "didn't work" because the fish died. But in reality, the hypo is killing off the parasite - just not quick enough for that particular fish.

I know nothing about FW dips... you might PM Innovator - think he's familiar with them. Many here see them as more stressful on the fish than whatever it is you're trying to fix.

 

[CaptainAhab]

When I've done it (and it's totally atypical and suggested only as a last resort since it seems your running short on options until the refract gets there). 4-5 minutes depending on how the fish is holding up. Then back in the QT. Stick an airstone in there, match the ph and temp. Dechlor if it's tap.

IMO: 1 time only

 

[melosu58]

I dont like to FW dip any. The only 2 times I`ve done it the fish soon died. To me it stresses out an already stressed fish to the point of no return. I have never seen a FW dip work effectively. JMO

 

[CaptainAhab]

I don't disagree. I have also never seen leaving them in a quasi-hypo solution for 10 days untreated (as one dies and one by all indications is getting much worse) work either. The refrac isn't due in till the 10th, going from 012 to 'normal' to use copper does not seem all that healthy either.

To me the options seemed to be; do nothing or something as it appeared the condition was worsening.

someone could say that FW dip "didn't work" because the fish died. Perhaps in reality, the FW dip is killing off the parasite - just not quick enough for that particular fish.

 

[FishAddict413]

Thanks for all your input. They are both still eating today. I will leave it as is and hope for the best.