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Old 03-19-2005, 02:56 AM   #71
steve-s
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Originally Posted by Phyl
What do I do if the Tang falls ill with this?
If diagnosed early enough, nitrofurazone should kill it @ 30mg/gal for 5 days as a one time dose. If more advanced, a series of SW formalin baths are recommended

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How will I recognize it on a purple fish!?
Actually the darker the fish the easier to spot ('scuse the pun). Look for consitant faded patches or white lines. The lines will often look like a back country road map.

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Steve
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Old 03-23-2005, 11:55 AM   #72
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The PTs color has been great. No signs of any ill effects of whatever the gramma had when he died. Whew.

I'm fighting an ammo battle, of course. I'm changing out 6g in my 15g QT every day/ever other day. My ammo is .2 (drops to 1.25-1.75 after a water change), pH is stable at around 8.0 (does this need to be buffered up some more?). Would adding a power head in there help my cause any (keeping in mind that there is probably 10# of base rock in there)? I would have expected the bio filter to be able to pick up the pace with that much rock in there. SG is staying at 1.09 easily.

The tang is still eating well but hides a significant amount of the day. When he swims he has a bit of a twitch about him. Not constantly, but he'll swim along and then twitch and then keep swimming. He was eating his nori today and looked to be moving kinda slowly (but he was also just waking up). Last night he'd race out, grab a bite of F1 and then race back to his cave so maybe he's just calmer this morning because he didn't know I was around?

I haven't cleaned the tank glass not wanting to clean good bacteria off of the glass. Is that just nucience algae or is that carrying some of my bio load? I'll leave it dirty if it is helping break down the ammo....

Thanks!
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:05 PM   #73
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pH is stable at around 8.0 (does this need to be buffered up some more?).
Depends, what time of day was it tested?

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I haven't cleaned the tank glass not wanting to clean good bacteria off of the glass. Is that just nucience algae or is that carrying some of my bio load? I'll leave it dirty if it is helping break down the ammo....
The glass isn't going to hold much bacteria in the long run so it's better to remove the algae from the tank. It will compete for O2 making pH harder to maintain as well as contributing to water quality issues as it dies off and renews itself. The growth unto itself is not enough to help with nutrient control. Simpley having them there doesn't actually remove impurities unless the algae itself is removed and "exported".

As we discussed earlier, if the algae is light it's of no concern. Heavy growth should be removed.

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Old 03-23-2005, 12:06 PM   #74
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I should have also asked how often I should be feeding him. I've been feeding him and clipping nori in the tank every day. Is that too much? I feed my other fish every other day, but he's just a baby and with him being sick, I'm trying to be cautious! Thanks!
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:08 PM   #75
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The algae is a light coating of diatoms, by the look of it. I'll go ahead and clean it. I'd rather be able to see him but was afraid to disturb the balance. The pH seems to be right around 8.0 no matter what time of day I test it.
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Old 03-23-2005, 12:15 PM   #76
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The pH seems to be right around 8.0 no matter what time of day I test it.
I should have also asked how the alk level was? So early in the AM and late in the day no difference? Seems odd, is there a light over head or no?

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I've been feeding him and clipping nori in the tank every day. Is that too much? I feed my other fish every other day, but he's just a baby and with him being sick, I'm trying to be cautious! Thanks!
Having the grazing food always there for the tang or as often as possible is best. Just be sure it's removed/replaced with new before it begins to decay. As far as feedings are concerned, every second day is fine as long as the QT is cleaned afterwards for any detritus and uneaten bits.

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Old 03-23-2005, 12:27 PM   #77
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Shamefully I haven't checked the alk in the tank. I'll check that tonight. The tank is right next to an east facing window. It doesn't get direct sunlight (especially on rainy days like today) but it is viewable from dusk to dawn. The tank light is on from about 12pm to 8pm. Just enough so that he's still awake when I get home and settled in at the end of the day.

So even testing at 700 am (this morning) the sun has been up since 530 or so, I would guess. I also test at the end of the day 7pm. Last night when I tested it during the water change it was 8.0 (8.00-8.03) and then this morning it was 8.00.

I was buffering it a little each day when I was dropping the salinity to keep the pH up. It will be interesting to see what the alk is...

My change water is always a little high in pH (between 8.4 and 8.5) so I pour the change water back in a little bit at a time over the course of the evening so it isn't happening fast.

How concerned should I be over the .2? I know ideally it would be zero, I'm just trying to figure out at which point I get drastic over it. I've seen people talk about readings of 10 (?!) My test kit only goes to 1!

I don't say thank you often enough, but I'm always thinking it

Thank you
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Old 03-23-2005, 08:12 PM   #78
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How concerned should I be over the .2? I know ideally it would be zero, I'm just trying to figure out at which point I get drastic over it. I've seen people talk about readings of 10 (?!) My test kit only goes to 1!
I'm a little lost here, I don't understand what this is in reference to? Ammonia?

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Old 03-23-2005, 09:50 PM   #79
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Yes that's a reference to the ammo test results. I'm using a FasTest that gives the results in mg/l. I was trying to figure out how to react to a number of .2 (daily wc, twice daily... three times?!) Sorry for the confusion and thanks for the input!
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Old 03-23-2005, 10:58 PM   #80
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Truely the lower the better but keeping it under 0.2 mg/l is important. I know it's frustrating.

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Steve
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