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Old 02-28-2010, 03:38 PM   #1
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loosing fish not inverts or crabs

helllo, first off im new to the sw tank...mine has been up for about a month, 29 gallons, flourescnet light, 30-60 gallon filter sytem (by aqua tech), ph at 8.0, salinaty at 1.022 , nitrate at 20 ppm, nitrite at 0 ppm (will not even read up to 0 on dip tester) , no chlrorine (well water) Kh is at 300 + ppm. water temp is at 80 F

in the tank i have two enenomes (doing just fine), 2 red leg hermit crabs also doing fine, one 2lbs piece of live rock that has not started to produce anything as of yet, 2 snails both are doing fine.

my problem is that 3 weeks ago i lost my puffers, thinking that i was ick, i treated tank and did about 30% water change, parameters are good, so i have started to reintroduce fish to the tank, first was a bowtie damsil, he lasted overnight a died the next afternoon with no visible signs of any thing wrong, second i just got a blue damsil with yellow tail and a green chromis last night, this morning the blue damsil is all but dead, and the chromis is struggling, (once again all parameters of water seem to be good)

help im a noob ty
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Old 02-28-2010, 04:00 PM   #2
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Does not sound to me like your parameters are in check, honestly. I didn't see testing for ammonia in that list. Have you been testing for this?

I would also seriously suggest you get rid of those anemones. You don't have nearly enough light to support them, and they need a completely matured tank. A tank older than a year. And judging by what your saying, your tank doesn't seem stable at all. Those nems are probably slowly dying at this point, and will eventually die and nuke your whole tank.

Also, how did you treat the tank when you thought you had an ich outbreak? Did you use copper medications? Or hyposalinity? Do you do weekly water changes as well?

To be able to help you, we need some solid readings on your water parameters. Test them again and post the results here. The fish you put in there continue to die, and die slowly, so clearly there is something wrong, and it is not the fish you purchase. I would stop buying anything right now, and see if you can bring back the anemones until you can figure out exactly what the problem is with your tank.

I would also advise getting the liquid test kits, and not the dip test strips. Those are not very accurate, at all.

Ammonia
Nitrites
Nitrates
Phosphates
Calcium

^^You need to test for all of those, but mainly just Ammonia, Nitrate, and Nitrates for us to at least figure what's going on.
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Old 02-28-2010, 04:15 PM   #3
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ty for your quick repsonse.

the parameters that i previously posted were about ten minutes b4 post i do not have a liquid test kit at this time but will look into getting one...the only reading on the dip test that concerned me was the the Kh was above 300 ppm(off my chart) but according to chart it was good to be on the high side (not sure)

on the treatement for ick i did the hypo salinity treatment for 48 hours
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Old 02-28-2010, 04:21 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rollerman View Post
on the treatement for ick i did the hypo salinity treatment for 48 hours
Hypo needs to be done for weeks in a QT. Your crab will die in a sustained hypo treatment. That`s why you cant treat your DT. Read these to get more info on ich.

An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure: A Quarantine Tank for Everything by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part II by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com

ATJ's Marine Aquarium Site - Reference - Hyposalinity Treatment
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Old 02-28-2010, 04:29 PM   #5
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Definitely read those links, and just to let you know, your nems will become stressed under hypo treatment, and they will eventually move around the tank until they find a comfortable spot. Since your treating the entire tank, they won't be able to find themselves a comfortable spot, and will die.
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:17 AM   #6
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Ok lost my chromis b4 I could get a test kit for amonia....new question is....now that I have no fish in the tank, could i just let it mature without treating for ick or velvet (whatever I had) will the ick or velvet eventually die off without a host to attach too?
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:25 AM   #7
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To break the cycle of the ich parasite, you need the tank to be host free for 7-8 weeks. I would also look in to getting rid of those nems as stated before, now that the tank is pretty much void of life. It would be in your best interest to do so. The only things that could still survive in that tank with the ich parasite, assuming you have no traces of ammonia or nitrites and a low level of nitrates, are your inverts - minus the anemones which will eventually die since you do not have the proper lighting to support them and your tank parameters are out-of-whack.

Get the correct test kits to be able to accurately test your water parameters. After the cycle of the ich parasite is broken, then you can slowly start adding livestock back to your tank on a controlled level. Get a better lighting system to support an anemone if you still plan to keep one. However, you MUST wait until your tank is mature to re-introduce anemones back to your tank, unless you want a situation such as the one your in to occur again. The mature age for a tank with nems is no less than a year old, with stable water parameters.
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Old 03-02-2010, 01:30 AM   #8
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ty for quick response zero

the lighting that im using is a 200 watt flourescent single bulb (not made for tank hood but i have adapted it, would that suffice when the tank matures for anenomies

also i have a live rock do I need to get rid of it or leave it in

also my local store gave me something (STABILITY) by seachem.. told me that it would help mature a tank faster?
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Old 03-02-2010, 02:13 AM   #9
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Let's take a giant step backwards here...

If your tank has been up for a month, and your puffers died 3 weeks ago, I think it's safe to assume that you never cycled the tank?

You need to cycle the tank to build up a population of beneficial bacteria that will convert the poisonous ammonia that is produced by the fish breathing, pooping, etc into nitrites, and then the nitrites into nitrates. The only way to skip a cycle is to used pre-cure live rock which has all the bacteria on it to start with. But with only 2 lbs of rock, that wouldn't be enough to take care of any ammonia.

Here are a couple articles on cycling:

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articl...ank/Page1.html
http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articl...ate/Page1.html

If you have no fish in the tank, I'd take the anemones out of the tank and back to where you bought them for credit. And then I'd start over after thoroughly cleaning out the tank. I normally don't suggest starting over, but if you're only a month into this and already having to deal with a tank that has ich in it, I really think it would be easier to start over... and cycle the tank before adding anything. (And also wait 6-9 months before adding any anemones!)
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Old 03-02-2010, 04:16 AM   #10
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Nice Kurt. Rollerman - I agree with Kurt, I don't think your tank has cycled but I also think you need more LR than just 2lbs! Also I 100% recommend buying a good liquid test kit for:
Ammonia
Nitrite
Nitrate
They will help enormously.
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