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Old 07-12-2005, 05:40 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Nate
when you do a hypo treatment, also keep an eye on your hardness (Kh) because the first time I did hypo I didn't know this and I killed all my fish anyway! You can always buffer if you have to.
hardness? Like the water hardness? What is KH?
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Old 07-12-2005, 06:44 PM   #12
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"Hardness" is a measue of ALK. ALK is measured in either milliequivalents per liter (meq/L) or German degrees of carbonate hardness (dKH). Most ALK test kits meausre in meq/L so to find the dKH multiply it by 2.8. That being said, ALK is simply a measure of the water's resistance to change in Ph. The higher the ALK, the more resistance to change and vice-versa. An ALK of 3.2-4.5meq/L is desireable in most tanks. Frequent and regular PWC in a QT is about the best way to keep things stable. Because of the lower water volume in QT tanks, adding buffers can cause more trouble then good.
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Old 07-12-2005, 10:23 PM   #13
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In a hyposaline environemnt, PWC's are not really that effective in terms of chemistry although should still be performed for water quality purposes. Due to the diluted salinity, you also have diluted chemistry so buffers will typically be necessary. Do not use baking soda!

Use this calculator to figure out how much. Wouldn't hurt to err on the side of caution if your unsure and dose ½ and see what it does and then the other ½ when you know it's what's needed.

http://home.comcast.net/~jdieck1/chem_calc3.html

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Old 07-12-2005, 10:40 PM   #14
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I had a real bad ich infestation in my 54 gal tank a while back I used kick ich it worked great. I do not have a qt tank or have any space for one. I just 2 weeks ago upgraded to a 75 gal tank. i added a coral beauty and a valiten puffer. I look for a store that I did not see any sign of ich in. I drove 75 miles south and found one that the fish looked good and on a local site got great reveiwes. But the other nite my yellow tang started rubbing up on the power head upon closer look saw a few white spots 2 on the puffer and one on my triger. i started kick ich right away. No signs of the ich but only on day 7 of a 14 day treatment and I know that this ich will disapare for a day or 2 then come back 10 fold. But I know kick ich will cure it and I wont have to crowed all my fish in a little tank and do tones of water changes. Thank god for the makers of kick ich. Thatpetplace .com
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Old 07-12-2005, 11:19 PM   #15
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kick ich eh? hmmmm...sounds like the cheap way out of a bad situation. Sounds too good to be true. i don't suppose petsmart sells it?

I need a bigger tank. I have no idea where to get a pre-drilled tank at...this sucks.
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Old 07-13-2005, 10:59 PM   #16
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No pet smart don't have it but premune aquatics a sponsor of this site has it and is where I bought it at. It works great. The lazy way out.














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Old 07-14-2005, 01:41 AM   #17
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don't know if th hypo + meds is working yet. he's been in the qt for about 3 days now. The white spots seem to have grown some yet they seem like they're separating into smaller balls....almost liek they're breaking apart kind of. But the fish has lost some color...i've noticed that. I'm going to feed him brine tomorrow. Should he be losing his color at this point in the treatment?
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Old 07-14-2005, 05:13 PM   #18
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What other meds are you using with the hypo? What level is the salinity at/how are you measuring it?

Keep 2x daily testing of the alk/pH numbers and buffer as needed. The low salinity will mean diluted chemistry and can easily affect pH stressing the fish. Also if you have a light on the tank, keep if off. Only use it for checking the progress of the parasite. Ambient room light is much less stressful as will be placing PVC pipes/elbow pieces for the angel to hide in. Be sure to get a food type more geared towards and angels diet ie.. sponge/veggie/meat mixes. Your LFS should have several good varieties in the frozen section. Fortify with vitamin additives high in [acronym="Highly Unsaturated Fatty Acid"]HUFA[/acronym] no matter what you feed.

So far you've gone in the right direction at eliminating this problem, I hope you don't get dissuaded to less effective methods

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Old 07-17-2005, 12:15 AM   #19
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i'm using only a generic ich med with the hypo....nothing else. I'm using a hydrometer to measure salinity. The salinity is at 1.010 right now. The ph level has consistently been at 8.6 and alk is high.

I will leave the light off from now on.

He's had a coffee cup to hide in since he's been in qt.

I've been feeding him a marine flake and brine shrimp....trying to offer him food 2-3 times a day and he's been eating well.

But he continues to loose color it seems and the white spots seem to be phasing out. The one on his gill seems to get larger and more transparent though. I don't know if this means it''s dieing off or what. He's active though.
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Old 07-18-2005, 10:38 PM   #20
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well, he was getting better. The meds and hypo were working but then my heater went wacko and it got too hot in there and he died last night. Really pisses me off. It's a new heater and i'm going to have words with the LFS that sold it to me.
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