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Old 08-06-2004, 02:36 PM   #51
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You definitely need to get your pH up. 7.8 is really too low. It should be at least 8.2-8.3. This can cause many problems being too low. I forgot, but do you have any live rock in the tank at all? If not, pH is hard to maintain without a buffer of some sort. Before I got live rock, I was using Kent's pH buffer to stabilize the tank with. This can resolve many issues. I would take any cover you have on the top of the tank off for now to see if pH will fix itself.
Also, GPH should be on all powerheads, pumps, skimmers, etc. For proper flow, you want to have a total of 10x the number of gallons. 50G = 500GPH. Many people buy a few powerheads, such as the Maxi-Jet, which puts out 295GPH. Two of these would help with the flow for you. $21.95 each at liveaquaria.com.
Eggcrate, as Steve mentioned is great. Home Depot sells them cheap, and you can cut it to your needs. This will help with proper gas exchange, and a more stable pH.
Usually a 20G qt will suffice, unless you have some larger fish. HTH

Mike
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Old 08-06-2004, 06:30 PM   #52
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I can't take my lid off bc the light fixture is built in to it. it's got a flip top on one side, and i've been keeping that cracked. i don't know what to do to fix the temperature problem though. it keeps wanting to rise to 80-81 for some reason. when it gets colder at night it drops to about 77 but during the day it wants to be around 80. i have a fan blowing on it if that helps any. i don't know if i have room for another power head. jim was saying something about a bubbler?? the only fish we have are the little hermit crabs and emerald crabs and then the tang and 2 damsels and 2 percula clowns. they're all pretty small. what am i suppose to do about lighting when it comes to getting an eggcrate to go over the tank? luckily my 2 cats aren't too interested in the tank anymore so i shouldn't have to worry too much about not having a lid on it. lol but since the lid i have now has a built in light fixture, i don't know what i would do for lighting. other than the lid is there anything else i can do to bring the ph up? thanks, jessica
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Old 08-06-2004, 06:33 PM   #53
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ps i just looked on the powerhead and it says 100-270 gph. but i think that it's mostly giving waterflow to the back side of the tank. it's sitting right behind the main fixture of liverock. and yes, (obviously) i do have liverock. i'm not sure how many lbs though. if you look at one of my earlier posts, you'll see a picture of the tank. the power head is sitting behind it. so i don't know how much waterflow is going in front of the liverock.
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Old 08-06-2004, 09:39 PM   #54
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Your pH issue really seems to be that lid. Given the deapth of the tank, it's only going to make it harder to aerate. Keeping the lid slightly ajar isn't going to help much either. I would seriously suggest you replace the light with a cheap striplight and the eggcrate for now if all you have is LR and no coral. The eggcrate will support a simple striplight easily.

On a 60 gal hex tank, I can assure you your water flow is far too low and will also contribute to your pH problems. Buffers and such will not help and at best would be a tempoorary bandaid. Your toatal flow not including the skimmer should be minimum 600 GPH or higher.

As far as your heating, 80° is just fine and nothing to worry about. 77° is far too low and I would eek that up daily until it's up to the 80° mark. That will mean a much smaller temp swing and less stress on the fish.

GAC will help remove the Melafix from the water without any hassle on your part. It can be placed in the Fluval. As for your test kits, the only one you still really need is a nitrate kit. That will be very important if your going to keep problems down. Having a Ca test wouldn't be a bad idea either.

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Old 08-06-2004, 11:28 PM   #55
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I would plug your heater back in and set it to either 78-79 so the temperature only fluctuates a couple of degrees. As far as the lighting is concerned, as Steve said I would buy a strip light to go over the egg crate. This will give you much better airflow, and your pH should stabilize. Strip lights are cheap enough, and you can most likely use the existing bulbs you have now.
Do you only have one power head? If so, you might want to consider getting a couple more to cover the GPH requirements. Other than that, your pH will never stabilize with the lid on, and the water flow is too low. The temperature changes will stress your fish out terribly as well. HTH

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Old 08-08-2004, 11:59 AM   #56
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how do you find out the gph for the protein skimmer and the fluval filter? I didn't see it anywhere.
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Old 08-08-2004, 12:01 PM   #57
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also, would it be a good idea to get a fluval surface skimmer?
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Old 08-08-2004, 04:40 PM   #58
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Your skimmer should have the gph listed on it. What kind is it? Depending on your Fluval model, if you let me know what it is I can get that info for you.

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Old 08-09-2004, 05:59 PM   #59
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i have a fluval 404 filter and a red sea prizm protein skimmer. i couldn't find the gph on the skimmer.
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Old 08-09-2004, 06:47 PM   #60
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The skimmer is not going to really contribute anything in the way of "in tank" water flow. It will at best help aerate water already being moved by powerheads.

As far as the Fluval 404, it's rated at 340 GPH but that is when empty. Once you add media and the necessary head pressure from the hose moving water back to the tank, you'll be below 300 GPH.

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