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Old 03-01-2012, 09:27 PM   #61
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I had two store owners say that 1.012 to 1.014 was good enough. At this point everyones idea of hypo is there own. Im about to pull my hair out.
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:35 PM   #62
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Your lfs dont know what they're talking about. Here's some reading material that will inform you about the paraiste and the proper way to do Hyposalinity.
You CANNOT do Hypo without a refractometer!

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part II by Steven Pro

ATJ's Marine Aquarium Site - Reference - Hyposalinity Treatment
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:39 PM   #63
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+1 to that!!
Pretty sure i linked another good read about hypo in this thread too
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:14 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmor1701d
I have a refractometer
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:31 PM   #65
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I think i may do this. Makes sense and will be drug free.

From the article


. The problem is, moving a fish from an infected tank to a clean tank is a proven cure. It is one of the variations on the daily water change method that I mentioned in my first article on Cryptocaryon irritans (Colorni, 1987). In that paper, Colorni describes moving an infected fish between two tanks. The tanks are cleaned and dried between uses, thereby ridding them of tomonts. He instructs to do this every three days for ten days. This is very similar to what happened with the Purple Tang. There should have been two more moves, but Cratylus got lucky with just the one.
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:39 PM   #66
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I have studied the life cycle.

I made a picture of what happens i will mow share... No laughing lol


Click image for larger version

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Old 03-02-2012, 04:13 PM   #67
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I believe you now understand the life cycle and why Hyposalinity is the safest cure, most natural cure.

I have a dozen corals that just completed a drip acclimation, they were removed and water was gently shaken off. They are now in a CoarlRx bath, to be followed by a double bath of tank water before going into the tank. This lowers the chance of bringing the Ich parasite into the DT to close to 0. Notice I did not say zero, as there is always some small chance. I would need to keep them in a separate frag tank for a month to make that happen. I just don't have the room for that.
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:30 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmor1701d View Post
I believe you now understand the life cycle and why Hyposalinity is the safest cure, most natural cure.

I have a dozen corals that just completed a drip acclimation, they were removed and water was gently shaken off. They are now in a CoarlRx bath, to be followed by a double bath of tank water before going into the tank. This lowers the chance of bringing the Ich parasite into the DT to close to 0. Notice I did not say zero, as there is always some small chance. I would need to keep them in a separate frag tank for a month to make that happen. I just don't have the room for that.
Thanks! Confirms my thinking on a good protocol to avoid untrusted water introduction.

- D
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Old 03-02-2012, 04:33 PM   #69
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I made a picture of what happens i will mow share... No laughing lol
Nice! I think a lot of those wordy Ich articles could benefit from some quality info graphics.

- D
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Old 03-02-2012, 05:42 PM   #70
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@Don, avoiding unknown water intro into your DT should always be on your mind. I follow a similar protocol for inverts after acclimating them. Not everything can be properly QT'd at home unless you have the space, money and time for it, so do the best you can.

@Georgia, your drawing makes me want to cut and paste from various articles and make a similar diagram I can post when this issue comes up. Great work on that.
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