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Old 05-06-2013, 02:43 PM   #11
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A lot of people will keep a small filter or even a sponge in their sump just to add to their QT. Given time, they collect BB and can help with keeping parameters in check. You still want to watch those and do water changes as needed.

Hypo should work. I've heard that sometimes it is not low enough and/or people use hydrometers, which are not as accurate as refractometers, so they get inaccurate readings and its not as "hypo"as they think. Copper works too though.

Cleaner shrimp do not do much for Ich. Same for cleaner wrasses. They might peck at the white spots, but those are simply skin reactions to the parasite burrowing into the skin. Cleaners don't get into the skin. If you have cleaner shrimp in a DT, there's nothing wrong with them (they are actually cool to watch in action), they just don't do as much as some people think for disease.
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Old 05-06-2013, 03:28 PM   #12
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Ok so is it safe to QT these fish with a brand new filter and do the water changes and tests as require?

If this is the way then I'm still worried about the fish being in ammonia or nitrite. Il need to have plenty of fresh saltwater mixed up?

How often should I do water changes?
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:07 PM   #13
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the qt tank is not really supposed to have filtration you can use a hob filter with filter floss no carbon, carbon will remove medication. copper will kill the beneficial bacteria even if you have some in there
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:14 PM   #14
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I just bought a filter lol.
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Old 05-06-2013, 04:18 PM   #15
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It's is really confusing because some people are saying use a filter and others are saying you don't need one.

If I don't use a filter then il have to do daily water changes?

If I do use one the copper will kill the bacteria in the filter meaning its useless and il still have to do daily waypter changes?

I don't have time to do daily water changes for 6 to 8 weeks
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:59 PM   #16
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I think you are looking at daily water changes either way you go so be prepared. It really sucks but its the only thing that will cure your fishes
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Old 05-06-2013, 08:59 PM   #17
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You do not need a filter. You need something to keep water circulating (powerhead usually, but filter could work as long as it moves a decent amt of water), possibly a heater (if you normally need one to keep your DT tank at a certain temp and ideally a big piece of PVC (or two) for your fish to hide in. Keep an eye on parameters and change water as needed. That will vary depending on the fish, how many fish, size of tank, etc. The idea of having a sponge/filter/whatever, that has BB already on it works better for hypo as i do recall hearing that copper kills the BB. I also believe that having carbon in a filter pad will help filtration, to a point, with hypo, but actually works against copper.
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Old 05-07-2013, 03:20 AM   #18
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Ok so after sleeping on it and having a QT setup I have decided what I want to do.

I want to use hypo for the infected fish and for all new fish moving forward.

The setup includes a heater, small power head, eheim external filter with filter media, sponge and floss, a blue moon light and blue backing.

I want to use this method as I want a fully cycled tank for the future to QT my fish without the danger of any ammo or trite spike. I also appreciate I will need to do water changes frequently however in my new house the QT will be sat right next to the barrel I use to mix my saltwater and the RODI unit. Easy peasy.

Last question before I do this: if I keep on top of my water changes is it safe to do this baring in mind the filter is not cycled. I need to treat for ich almost immediately and don't want a cycle to kill them.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:25 AM   #19
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this is a copy/paste of a section of an article on hypo


If the treatment tank has an active biological filter, don't assume it's working. When salinity is lowered the bacteria sometimes enter into a state of suspension and hold off in their metabolism of ammonia and nitrites. Controlling water quality and especially pH will be the challenge. Check for ammonia, nitrites, and pH twice each day at the start, until readings are zero for ammonia and nitrites. Don't count on the pH to remain steady. It must be checked no less than twice a day and if needed, adjusted.

Make water changes to control organics, ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, etc. If all is steady, still make water changes of 35% or more every other day. After the first water use, the only water to use to make changes is made up water from salt. DO NOT USE DISPLAY TANK WATER to make water changes in a treatment tank, no matter what disease is being treated.
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Old 05-07-2013, 08:31 AM   #20
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This is the first I'm hearing about a filter not working due to lower salinity.

This all sounds very stressful to the fish as they could be exposed to ammonia whichever way I do it.
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