Need Help With Flame Angel

[bert]

My Flame Angel, Flash, has been in the 90 g [acronym:f2f1ec217e="Fish only with live rock"]FOWLR[/acronym:f2f1ec217e] (50-55 lbs) for about 4 weeks. Although he eats well and he has become very active in the tank, his physical appearance has deteriorated. Color has faded (virtually no purple can be seen), fins are a bit ragged, and he has a single, fuzzy looking, small white substance behind a fin. Since I added a 6 Line Wrasse a week ago the Flame follows him around--inviting him to clean him up! He did the same with a Royal Gramma.

I have been feeding Flash primarily a frozen variety pack (with green cubes in it) along with an occasional frozen MS.

Water conditions appear to be excellent. Readings of 0 for all but ATES (20) and [acronym:f2f1ec217e="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]PH[/acronym:f2f1ec217e] is perfect.

I think that I need to either dip Flash (not done previously) or put him in [acronym:f2f1ec217e="quarantine or quart depending on context"]QT[/acronym:f2f1ec217e]. Any thoughts? Could lack of fresh "greens" be causing the color fade? His tank mates are currently 2 [acronym:f2f1ec217e="Power compact fluorescent"]PC[/acronym:f2f1ec217e], 1 RG, 1 6L Wrasse, and some TS and HCs.

Could be a mild bacterial infection. It can be common in new fish that have been through a fair amount of stress and/or mishandled improperly fed along the way. You should not do a dip, it will only further stress the angel.

Best suggestion is water changes and add vitamins to your foods. A frozen food specifically for angels wouldn't be a bad idea along with what you are currently using. You might also try some nori. Angels do quite well when offered supplimental grazing foods.

Bacterial versus Fungal: Those little white tufts

Any additional symtoms or odd observations other than the color and fin problem?

Cheers
Steve

[bert]

Yesterday it appeared that one eye was a bit cloudy.

Thanks

[macman7010]

Check your water parameters. If you have access Nitrites or Nitrates in the water this can cause for these symptoms as bad water quality causes for fish healt to decline overall. Also check your [acronym:1c0f25b5fe="power head or Measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions, depending on context"]ph[/acronym:1c0f25b5fe], 8.3 is about where is should be for marine fish. If you are just keeping fish and no inverts in your tank you could always drop your density to 1.017 or so. If you do have inverts I would quarentine with a salinty of 1.010.

Cloudy eye can be caused from several issues. From a mild abbrassion, netting damage from capture, less than expected water quality or worse still an indication of parasite activity. Start with the water changes and see what/if that improves anything. Also be sure to post back if you see any additional symptoms no matter how small.

Be especially watchful for gilling, flashing, excess mucus coat, frayed fins, abnormal scale position/loss and abnormal feces output.

[acronym:88109782b2="For what its worth"]FWIW[/acronym:88109782b2], lowering the salinity to 1.017 won't do much but I would definately suggest getting a [acronym:88109782b2="quarantine or quart depending on context"]QT[/acronym:88109782b2] up and ready just in case.

Cheers
Steve

[bert]

I am working on setting up a [acronym:2af36b564a="quarantine or quart depending on context"]QT[/acronym:2af36b564a]. I also will try feeding him some seaweed tonight to supplement the frozen variety pack. I have been doing 10% water changes on a weekly basis for about the past 8 weeks...more (20%) when Nitrates were slightly elevated (20).

Flash is still eating well and very active in the tank. He continues to try to shadow th 6LW as if he wants to be cleaned.

Thanks for the suggestions...

It won't hurt to do a few 20% water changes over the next 7-10 days. Just be sure the new [acronym:b3d6fcfef9="Saltwater"]SW[/acronym:b3d6fcfef9] is well aged/aerated for a full day first. The main idea is to reduce the [acronym:b3d6fcfef9="Dissolved Organic Compounds"]DOC[/acronym:b3d6fcfef9] in the water that feeds the bacteria before it goes through the nitrogen cycle. Nitrates unto themselves are not always an indication of good or bad but 20 [acronym:b3d6fcfef9="Parts per Million"]ppm[/acronym:b3d6fcfef9] is a fair amount higher than desirable if this ends up being bacterial.

Wouldn't hurt to scope out your [acronym:b3d6fcfef9="Local Fish Store"]LFS[/acronym:b3d6fcfef9] and see what meds are available to you. Check on antibiotics, copper (with types of test kist) and formalyn based.

Steve
Cheers