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Old 11-16-2003, 09:37 PM   #11
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Ok, I just found this site ...http://www.aquasite.com/knowledge/disease/disease.shtml

I went through it and since there are no real visible problems, it said:
Disease Diagnosis: None - Low Oxygen

Check water quality for both Oxygen and Carbon Dioxide levels

I had a whisper filter running with an carbon Aqua clear pad cut to the shape of a whisper filter, since I did not have any. Would this have caused a problem ... too much carbon?

I removed the pad when I treated the tank and the fish is moving a bit more but I still have little hope of survival ...

just wondering if I did something wrong...
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Old 11-16-2003, 11:03 PM   #12
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I suspect the test kit you are using is giving you false readings to some degree if you are getting a ph close to 9.0. I would also suggest taking your ph kit to the LFS and have them test their water using your test kit and one of their own and compare the results.

With a proper ph or even higher, low O2 will not normally be a problem. If the output of the Whisper is moving the surface water it will be oxygenating the water to some degree. Is the QT covered? If so, remove the lid as it will increase the gas exchange and allow trapped CO2 to escape more freely. I still think the problem may be in part due to an elevated ph (even if only slightly) + ammonia. The two combined can be quite leathal. It does not make sense that you have a nitrite reading and no ammonia if you have just set things up. Was the filter seeded before use?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisz
I had a whisper filter running with an carbon Aqua clear pad cut to the shape of a whisper filter, since I did not have any. Would this have caused a problem ... too much carbon?
No, carbon will not have this kind of adverse affect unless it was previuosly used and possibley contaminated. I am wondering why the use of the Greenex though, if you've only had the tang for a day? Adding treatments with a fish that shows no sign of a parasite could further stress the fish unneccessarily. FWIW, if you have added the Greenex while the carbon was still in use, the carbon will have removed the med for the most part anyway.

How much did you use? The recommended dosage for GreenEx is 1 drop per 1 gal of actual water volume...

Cheers
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Old 11-16-2003, 11:33 PM   #13
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I added it since the fish was on the bottom of the tank bareley breathing. I thought there might be something there i was not seeing. Should I just let it die without trying?

I removed the carbon pad after putting the treatment in. I was aware of the carbon removing the chemical and the correct dosage.

I will get the water tested for pH. I did test for ammonia and it was OK. The Nitrites were barely detectable. The ammonia was not a bright yellow so I figured I would be changing the water the next day. I am cycling LR in another tank so I have water available.
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Old 11-17-2003, 12:15 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisz
I thought there might be something there i was not seeing. Should I just let it die without trying?
I am not trying to suggest you don't care, quite the contrary. In answer to your question though, it is better to do nothing unless you know what you are treating. GreenEx is a parasite treatment and really should not be used unless there is evidence of that.

Quote:
I will get the water tested for pH. I did test for ammonia and it was OK. The Nitrites were barely detectable. The ammonia was not a bright yellow so I figured I would be changing the water the next day. I am cycling LR in another tank so I have water available.
So does this mean there was some ammonia present?

BTW, I have moved this to the "Sick fish/Coral" forum in hopes of getting some additional insights.

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Old 11-17-2003, 12:53 AM   #15
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was not green but not bright yellow. With me trying to feed and the small amount of water, I expected the ammonia to rise.

The Tang is dead now

Makes me wonder if the quarantine was worth it. I have thriving fish and inverts in the main tank using the same water that was in the QT. If it was a parasite, then I would be relieved that it did not infect the rest of my fish. I have no evidence of that so it kind of make me wonder what happened.

I have heard from others that my pH test kit might not be the one of choice. I have a shrimp, crabs and snails living in the tank with no issues. The LR is showing more signs of life with worms and such. Am I to think that the water is not ideal?
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Old 11-17-2003, 10:09 AM   #16
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If you could post exact results of your test kits such as actual number of amonia and nitrites that would be much more helpful in determining if your water quality is ok or not.
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Old 11-17-2003, 10:48 AM   #17
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Sorry for the loss...

I hope that you will continue to quarantine your fish as it is still the best way to prevent problems in the main display tank. Disease is not the only thing that may kill a fish and the deaths are not always going to be immediately explainable. I am not sure what is going on with the water quality in the QT and think you should have the test readings verified. As I said, if the ph was elevated and there was ammonia present it can be leathal so until you get your ph test kit verified, that will remain a possibility.

The water quality in your display tank could well be ideal but you need to understand that when it is placed in a different environment such as a QT, the variables change and with that the water quality will change as well. I hope that you will post later once/if you decide to get the tests verified and any other info that might be relevant so we can figure out what if anything, was askew to prevent this from happening again.

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Old 11-17-2003, 01:44 PM   #18
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Quote:
If you could post exact results of your test kits such as actual number of amonia and nitrites that would be much more helpful in determining if your water quality is ok or not.
I did not post the actual number on the ammonia or Nitrites since he color was not exact. Maybe my test kits sucks but it is the only one I have used and I believe the LFS uses the same. I will check out the seachem kit. On my kit for Nitrites, it is clear for 0 and pink for .25(I think). It was not pink but not clear. The same is for ammonia. Yellow is 0 and greenish yellow is .25. The test was not a bright yellow but I did not see any real green. Could be my eyes I guess.

Quote:
I hope that you will post later once/if you decide to get the tests verified and any other info that might be relevant so we can figure out what if anything, was askew to prevent this from happening again.
I called the LFS and they said they would give me half off another fish and test my water. The QT water will probably be bad being that the fish is still in there. I have not removed it yet. I guess pH might still me valid? I will have them test my main tank as well.

I'll let you know. Thanks.
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Old 11-17-2003, 04:35 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisz
I guess pH might still me valid? I will have them test my main tank as well.
The ph in the QT will have been lowered by the fish being left in it so that would not help nor would taking a sample of your main tanks water. Once the water is removed from the tank, ambient O2/CO2 will affect it in a short time. If you take a water sample to the LFS the results will be inaccurate for ph.

I would instead take your ph test kit to them and run a test with it on their water and compare the results against their instore test kit. That should give you a more accurate guage as to the accuracey of the ph kit you have.

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Old 11-19-2003, 12:15 AM   #20
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Well, I did not get them to test my kit but I did buy another pH test kit. Not sure how good it is but it is give clearer results. The tablet one I have says it is a wide range test. I got a liquid kit that tests high range. It was the only one I could find locally and it is consistently reading 8.2.

I did take the fish back and they tested my main tank water. pH was 8.4 and all other levels were zero. They gave me half credit and I got another yellow tang. This one was eating(the other one did not) and has been in the QT for 24+ hours. He is doing well at this point. I did a water change tonight since ammonia was creeping up - .25. The pH was 8.2.

One thing I wondered was right now, my lights are off during the day. I don't have a timer running yet due to some previous heating issues I had. With the glass tops removed and the open canopy, this is not a problem. On weekends, I have the light on longer. This will be corrected.
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*100 gal prop tank plumbed into main system w/ 2x96 PC lights and 1x150 MH,
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