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Old 11-19-2003, 12:24 AM   #21
steve-s
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Glad you got some of the issues sorted out. The tang could have honestly been on a down hill before you purchased it. I hope you have better success from here on out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ellisz
One thing I wondered was right now, my lights are off during the day. I don't have a timer running yet due to some previous heating issues I had. With the glass tops removed and the open canopy, this is not a problem. On weekends, I have the light on longer. This will be corrected.
Not sure what your asking here but if for the QT, lights are not neccessary really and can actually help reduce stress by not using them. If in ambient room light, that can often be plenty.

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Steve
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Old 11-20-2003, 12:46 AM   #22
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Well, it looks like the second tang is dead. He was eating well and we we got home today to see him stuck to the bottom of a PH. It was a very low gph ph so I really don't know how he got stuck but he has been floundering ever since.

My ammonia was up to 1.0 when I got home. I changed out 50% of the water for water in the main tank. Is this something you have to keep doing in a QT tank? I did not think the ammonia would rise that fast in one day.

Getting bummed now ...
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Old 11-20-2003, 02:17 AM   #23
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Hmmm...

When a QT is set up without being seeded somehow, the water quality must be monitored very well. You must also be very careful of feeding and types of foods fed. It is also a good idea to syphon out any uneaten foods as soon as possible. Having a newly set up QT is no different than a new tank. The water parameters will do exactly the same thing baring a bacterial transfer and even then must still be watched.

Even if the PH is a lower GPH, a weakened fish may not be able to get away from it especially if it is starved for O2 in a high NH3 environment. A pre-filter sponge would be a great idea for all types of exposed intakes. In the quarantine article it highly recommends running an unmedicated sponge filter for a few days ( a week would be better) in the main diplay tank to colonize the neccessary bacteria to aid in the nitrification of the more toxic water specs. I would highly recommend re-reading the QT article. You should also not use the main displays water for water changes, only in the initial set up. You are in effect just trading DOC's and other elements that will affect water quality. It is best to use properly mixed new SW and possible add an ammonia binder to help with the NH3. This will be far more effective at diluting the toxic elements and reducing the DOC that will surely decrease water quality if not removed.

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Steve
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Old 11-20-2003, 03:45 PM   #24
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I had read the QT article but I missed the part about running the sponge filter in the main tank. Could I just put the filter media for the Whisper HOB in the sump to seed it?

I missed a few details in that article. I don't think it really addresses water changes but what you said makes sense. I think the first fish was bad before I got it. It was not eating. I guess I took care of the second one

thanks
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Old 11-20-2003, 10:15 PM   #25
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Quote:
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I had read the QT article but I missed the part about running the sponge filter in the main tank. Could I just put the filter media for the Whisper HOB in the sump to seed it?
Yes, just place it in a good flow area where it will be most effective. Also be very sure that if meds are ever used, the media is discarded after the fish is released from the QT and purchase a new filter insert for the next use.

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