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Old 01-07-2005, 09:39 PM   #21
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I will call tomorrow and will definitely let you know how it goes,
thank you very much

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Old 01-07-2005, 09:46 PM   #22
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no problem

Alex n Mary

150 gallon, 30g fuge/sump, 4.5 watt/gal VHO Lighting, 4" sand bed, 290 lbs LR, CDX-3 Nitrate/Phosphate filter

Female Naso "Isabell" or "Izzy", Emperor Angelfish, Flame Angel, Red Sea Sailfin tang "Bambi", Maroon Clown "Nani", 5 Chromis, 1 Aglae Blenny "Bengi" , Yellow Watchman Goby, pr of Banggai Cardinals, Lyretail Anthia, Six Line Wrasse

1 cleaner shrimp, Coral Banded Shrimp, lettuce nudibranch, 1 sand sifter stars, 1 tiny red brittle star "red", 1 tiny red and white banded serpent star, 2 tiny banded serpent stars, small orange Linkia starfish, assorted hermits and snails. Corals: star polyps, A ton of different types of mushrooms, yellow zooanthids, brown-orangish and light blue paly's, orange ricordia.

90g RR, W/D, 120 lb's LR SF eel, pygmy angel, pr sebae clownfish, 4 chromis. Star Polyps & Mushrooms
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Old 01-09-2005, 11:50 AM   #23
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called yesterday, but tank was sold.
it's good that I'm patient, because the longer it takes, the more I think about it, also my wife keeps on coming up with some "stuff"
here is another idea.
to have such a huge, heavy thing, I only have one chance to decide the place where it stands and my wife and I are both unsure about that, we have something like 4 options, three different rooms, I want it in the living room and my wife doesn't want it there at all. this alone could be unnecessary stress in the future. also the design, look and color of the stand is important, since we have to look at that for a long time and it can not easily be changed (up until now I never even thought of that).
I was also told that traces of medication could be in the silicone of the tank seams etc. and this could cause your corals to die or be sick and you would never find out.
to make a long story short.
since I want a sump with refugium, I was thinking to build that first as a tank and get my feed wet until the decision for the main tank is made (which could take another few month) and then when ready use this setup as the sump - refugium or quarantine tank.
how does this sound?
I take a 20gal tank as the main, and build or convert a 10 gal tank to the sump - refugium.
I would make a home made skimmer and put 30# of LS and some 30# of LR in the tank.
pluming shouldn't be a problem and pump etc. I would buy that can be used for a 75gal tank later.
this way I can put this setup on my desk and enjoy a SW tank while making all the other decisions and when finally going to a 75gal tank, the 20gal can be converted to the sump - refugium and the 10gal can be used as quarantine tank and LS and LR can also be used.
what do you think?
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Old 01-17-2005, 11:03 PM   #24
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I'm back, after a long weekend of hard work.

here is why you shouldn't use force when working with glass

here is a little sample of how things look when you use the wrong adhesive.
I'm sure it will work, but it looks horrible.
My first skimmer (build per instructions on a thread on nano-reef.com) on the right was put together by using goob, with the second one on the left I used weld-on #4 and #16 what a difference

again, goob

and weld-on

the sump/fuge with skimmer

gluing the overflow into place using aquarium silicone


connecting the hoses to sump/fuge and skimmer

connecting hose overflow to skimmer, skimmer to sump, air hose and drain hose for waste

placing the light for refugium

after thinking real hard, I made one little change, I went and bought a 29gal tank (same size but higher) hey, bigger is better

now I need the rest of my equipment to keep going

everything checks to be on time for delivery on 01/19/05
can't wait for UPS to arrive
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Old 01-18-2005, 02:33 AM   #25
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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I am in the process of doing my first SW tank, probably a reef i just bought a protein skimmer and a 55g tank. I was wondering would it be possible on the tank to take off the plastic trim that is along the top and replace it with 6 or 9 inch piece of wood all along the top. Assuming that you use all the proper steps as far as sealing the wood with a non toxic paint, and making it water tight. If you did this you could drill into the wood for your overflows and place your powers heads above the glass so that they would be out of sight.

I know that you can safely use a very expensive epoxy paint to seal wood, but i also heard you can use acrylic and latex if you let them dry for a week of so before they touch water......anyone know anything about this?

Tank: 55g FW w/2 hot mag filters (w/d in the future)...scored tank, cab, hood, filters for $150

Fish: Cal Ryukin, R&W Ryukin, Baby Champion Panda, R&W Ranchu, Cal Ranchu, 2 Tamasaba, Pearscale, Lionhead, Black Moore, Pleco
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