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Old 07-18-2003, 12:17 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by Gauge
copper treatment (they didn't have hyposalinity
Hyposalinity is not a treatment you can purchase. It is practically a free treatment. Once you have spent the initial cost of a proper QT set up. There is really no more cost except in monitoring the alk/PH levels which you should already have anyway. Plus the added bonus, it's always available. No waiting for the LFS to open or worrying about them being "out of stock".

This article >>here<< will give you step by step instructions on how to administer it. Very simple and easy way of parasite removal. The salinity must be lowered gradually and maintained @ 14 ppt for about 2-3 weeks. That's it.

As far as your copper treatment, that will depend on which one you purchased? The levels should be tested once or twice per day.
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Old 07-18-2003, 01:11 PM   #62
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Well, I wish I had known that previously. I wonder if they'll let me take back the copper stuff or not. Eh, doesn't really matter. So, when I was at the LFS, they said I should try a freshwater dip. So, thusfar I've heard of three treatments I should try:

1) Hyposalinity
2) Copper treatment
3) Freshwater dip

Now, all three of these could potentially be used at the same time, I think. Does anyone think that is necessary? I mean, after 6 weeks in a QT tank without ANY treatment, they'd probably end up either dead or parasite-free. What do you guys recommend I do?
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92-gallon corner tank, 100lbs of LR, 140lbs of sand, 250watt 10,000K MH, 110watts of actinic PCs, Mag 7 return, custom refugium, AquaC EV180 w/ Mag 5

Female lyretail anthias, eyelash blenny, tomato clown, saddleback clown, firefish goby, 2 sand-sifting stars
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Old 07-18-2003, 01:24 PM   #63
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After reading that article, I'm more inclined to go with the copper treatment. It sounds easier. In a 10-gallon tank with as little as I'm home, I think the evaporation would cause the salinity to get high enough to screw the whole thing up. The tank seems to lose about 5% of its water every day to evaporation. I probably loses more in volume than my main tank does on a daily basis. Hex tanks evidentally do have a benefit or two.
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92-gallon corner tank, 100lbs of LR, 140lbs of sand, 250watt 10,000K MH, 110watts of actinic PCs, Mag 7 return, custom refugium, AquaC EV180 w/ Mag 5

Female lyretail anthias, eyelash blenny, tomato clown, saddleback clown, firefish goby, 2 sand-sifting stars
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Old 07-18-2003, 01:46 PM   #64
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Also, I'm still looking for a "source of ammonia" to put into the main tank during this 6-week period. What should I do? My non-fish population in the tank consists of...

arrow crab
cleaner shrimp
emerald crab
anemone crab
blue leg reef hermit crab X 2
tiger tail sea cucumber
red bali sea star
5 polyps
small patch of daisy polyps (about as big around as my pinky finger)

That wouldn't keep the bacteria population very intact would it?
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92-gallon corner tank, 100lbs of LR, 140lbs of sand, 250watt 10,000K MH, 110watts of actinic PCs, Mag 7 return, custom refugium, AquaC EV180 w/ Mag 5

Female lyretail anthias, eyelash blenny, tomato clown, saddleback clown, firefish goby, 2 sand-sifting stars
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Old 07-18-2003, 02:00 PM   #65
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your sea star and cucumber will be toast if you do not get them out.
They are very sensitive inverts. Crabs are iffy
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Old 07-18-2003, 02:02 PM   #66
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Now, all three of these could potentially be used at the same time, I think. Does anyone think that is necessary?
I wouldn't - I think it's too much, and would definitely stress out the fish. I'm not a big advocate of FW dips, I think they're extremey stressful to fish. I'd go with either the copper or hyposalinity. The copper treatment is probably the better option for you.

Quote:
Also, I'm still looking for a "source of ammonia" to put into the main tank during this 6-week period.
The main tank? That has the above-listed stuff in it? You don't want to do that -- an ammonia spike and subsequent cycle will most likely kill off most of what you have listed. Do you have LR or a DSB in that tank? The bacteria will thrive in that. If not, what are you using for filtration?
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Old 07-18-2003, 03:08 PM   #67
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Methinks we have some confusion here.

Hara

Those inverts are staying in the main tank while I medicate the QT tank. I was listing them to see if you thought they could hold the bacteria population up by production enough ammonia to feed it.


ReefLady

I didn't mean a large source of ammonia to make a cycle. Just some small, consistant source to keep the bacteria population up to par so when I'm done with the QTing of the fish, there won't be a cycle in the main tank when they return.
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Old 07-18-2003, 03:17 PM   #68
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Just some small, consistant source to keep the bacteria population up to par so when I'm done with the QTing of the fish, there won't be a cycle in the main tank when they return.
I wouldn't introduce any ammonia to the main tank, in any amount whatsoever, while you have those animals in it. Ammonia & nitrite, in the smallest of concentrations, can be lethal.

Same questions ...

Quote:
Do you have LR or a DSB in that tank? The bacteria will thrive in that. If not, what are you using for filtration?
LR/LS will maintain your bacteria population/biological filtration.

HTH,
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Old 07-18-2003, 03:28 PM   #69
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Sorry, forgot to answer those...

I'm not really sure which tank you're asking about, so... In the main tank there is about a 2" sand bed (50 lbs or so of sand), about 15-20 pounds of rock, and a CPR Backpack 2 filter... in the QT tank I'm just going to use a sponge filter per Reefrunner's suggestion.


So, if you don't recommend the addition of any ammonia source to the tank, do you think that the tank will cycle again in six weeks when I add the two fish back in? Or do you think the bacteria will hold?
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Female lyretail anthias, eyelash blenny, tomato clown, saddleback clown, firefish goby, 2 sand-sifting stars
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Old 07-18-2003, 04:39 PM   #70
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So, if you don't recommend the addition of any ammonia source to the tank, do you think that the tank will cycle again in six weeks when I add the two fish back in? Or do you think the bacteria will hold?
I think I see the misunderstanding. The critters you have in the tank, will need to be fed. Feed them no more than what they will eat in a short period of time a couple times per week, really make sure you feed the shrimp and the arrow crab to make sure they don't munch your polyps, and that should be sufficient to maintain your biological filter, IMO.
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