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Old 04-19-2007, 12:11 AM   #11
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That is My opinion. And I dont think Kick ick works in the least. IMO. Good luck
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Old 04-19-2007, 10:29 AM   #12
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It's hard to tell what killed them at this point. Did he have salt sized grains on him?
You said you did acclimate him. How long and what method?
Did he ever inflate while exposed to the air?
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Old 04-19-2007, 10:43 AM   #13
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I did acclamate him as I was told by many people. There were no other fish in the tank. I put him in a sterile container with the water from the pet store and added a cup or so of my tank water. I waited about 15-20 minutes, and added more water. I repeated this process several times over at least an hour. I then caught him with a net and placed him in my tank. He never inflated at all the entire time I had him. The only time he inflated was when he was a minute away from dead. I have read that ich can lead to secondary bacterial infections that can be lethal. I noticed about a week ago dark areas on him suggesting stress. This was after having him in my tank for over 2 weeks with no problems. Then I noticed one white speck on his back. A couple days later there were scratches on him, I think from rubbing on the rock. He was hanging out at the top of the tank near the filter and the heater, turning completely black. There were more specs on him a couple days later, and was told by the fish store that it was ich. I started treatment, but by the next morning, the ich on his back was just slime, and he was at the bottom of the tank lifeless. He spasmed a few times and just stopped breathing.
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:09 AM   #14
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Both stress and ich can lead to secondary infections.
What is your flow rate?
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:20 AM   #15
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I'm sorry, I'm still new to this. Flow rate?
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:34 AM   #16
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Total water movement in your tank, including the filters and power heads (phs).
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:43 AM   #17
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Puffers should never be netted. See this puffer care article.

Ich can kill but if it turned black it sounds like a Melanocarcinoma or a thyroid tumor and the slime could have been Brooklynella Hostilis. See www.fishyfarmacy.com for more info on Diagnosis and Treatment of fish diseases.

Also read Selecting Healthy & Appropriate Marine Fishes.

The use of a QT tank while not mandatory is highly recommended as well.

Drip acclimation is only needed in a QT for invertebrates preferably for 2+ hours. With fish, you need to get them out of the transport bag as quickly as possible. Test the transport water for temp, salinity, pH and so on. Then manipulate the QT parameters to match. Once done, the acclimation timeframe can be greatly reduced. Temp, pH and salinity being the main concerns. Bring the QT sg/ph/temp up to the main tank over the 6+ weeks kept in QT and increase the sg/ph slowly and every 3+ days to avoid stress.

See Help setting up a QT tank & Equipment for drip acclimation.
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:52 AM   #18
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I hope this is the info you are looking for. I have two 30 gallon filters running in my 46 gallon tank. I also have a protein skimmer running as well.
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Old 04-19-2007, 11:58 AM   #19
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The reason I was asking about flow is when fish tend to swim near the top, is the O2 levels might be too low. You don't have any phs running for more flow?
What brand/model are your filters?
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Old 04-19-2007, 12:04 PM   #20
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The filters are aqua clear. I know they use sponges and carbon. And since I don't know what phs is, I probably don't have it. What is it, and will that help get my tank back on track?
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