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Old 11-19-2008, 10:14 AM   #11
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Sadly, I'll never know if the jawfish could have recovered as he jumped the tank last night. I'm sad that he suffered a slow agonizing death on the floor while I slept unaware. He was a beautiful fish. If he wasn't going to get better I would have at least made sure his death was instant. :-(
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Old 11-19-2008, 02:14 PM   #12
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Sorry about your loss. Please cover the qt tank with eggcrate any time you have fish in there.

The main tank will need to be fed (very lightly) while doing hypo in the QT tank(s). Putting a sponge in the main (or main -sump) will grow bacteria over a period of a week or so. Bacteria will grow on all available surfaces. Just because your ammonia test reads zero doesn't mean that no ammonia is being produced. Fish waste, uneaten food, etc. all breakdown and create ammonia. The sponge filter will be a great home for the bacteria over time.

I put all of my fish (8) from my 125 in a 30 gallon tank for the 8 week hypo period. Lots of pvc parts of varying sizes and lots of pwc's helped. I didn't even botehr checking pH. I did 2x daily 5 gallon pwc's for the first week, 1x 5 gallon daily pwc's the secodn week, then 1x 2.5 gallon daily pwc's the rest of the time. Yes, it's a lot of work, but I've been Ich free for over 2 years now.

I added an Ich magnet (blue hippo tang) last year, but it spent a full 30 days in QT before being moved over.

I had to remove most of the 200 pounds of LR to capture all the fish for the move to the 30 gallon. Yes it was worth all the work to get Ich free and to remain Ich free.

Hope I didn't just jinx myself <lol>
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Old 11-19-2008, 02:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmor1701d View Post
Please cover the qt tank with eggcrate any time you have fish in there.
It was covered. He got through the space between the cover and the HOB filter. :-(

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Originally Posted by cmor1701d View Post
Putting a sponge in the main (or main -sump) will grow bacteria over a period of a week or so.
So when the new sponge filter comes (it shipped yesterday) am I better off putting it into the main tank's sump for a week and then into the QT? If I put it directly into the QT won't it take a month or more to cycle? I do have a large sponge in the QT that came from the sump. Not a sponge filter, just a large piece of sponge that was catching the water that drained from the fuge into the sump to make it quieter. It's sitting on the bottom of the QT in hopes that it will seed the new sponge filter.

Can live rock handle the low salinity? Should I grab a piece of rock and add it to the QT? I'm worried about the ammonia hurting the fish.

Quote:
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I had to remove most of the 200 pounds of LR to capture all the fish for the move to the 30 gallon.
I was lucky there - the gramma and wrasse fell for the old inverted bottle trick and the clowns always "sleep" in one corner of the tank so I was able to grab them with a net in the dark. The cardinals just needed to be herded into a corner and scooped out. Only the jawfish (rest in peace) required some re-landscaping but he was the first one I caught.

I'm glad to hear that someone was successful curing ich using hyposalinity. All these PWCs and the loss of a fish and I was beginning to get discouraged. I will certainly quarantine any future acquisitions!
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Old 11-20-2008, 05:55 PM   #14
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So the seven fish are now consolidated in the 26G tank and the SG is down to 1.12. I need to swap out another gallon or two w/ RO to get to 1.10 or 1.09, I was just worried about overshooting.

So now what? Four weeks at this level with water changes as needed to keep the ammonia in check and pH stable? I only see one tiny white speck on the gramma's fin and everyone else looks healthy as can be. I'm beginning to think I imagined the whole thing (if only).

And then take another week or two to get back up to 1.024-1.025 and then back into the main tank?
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Old 11-21-2008, 12:49 AM   #15
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1.009 is what you want. No more - no less.

And you're looking at 4-6 weeks at that level, but the timer doesn't start until you don't see any white spots on the fish anymore. In other words, the fish don't have white spots now, but in 7 days, some more white spots show up. The 4-6 week timer restarts and you start counting from that point. You want 4-6 weeks minimum of hypo, with no sign of ich.
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Old 11-21-2008, 11:23 AM   #16
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Okay, thanks. Only bad things happen fast in this hobby, right? It's going to be a long two months.

Can I at least slack off on water changes for the main tank? As long as I keep the calcium, magnesium, and alkalinity in check? I have the B-Ionic two part buffer, I just haven't needed to use it yet. And I have lots of magnesium supplement from when I got that bad batch of salt (for which the LFS credited me and then they accidentally used it up before they could send in a sample.)
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Old 11-24-2008, 10:41 AM   #17
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I've been calibrating my refractometer with RO/DI but it's not heated - does that mean I'm off by one or two points? The next time I place an order for supplies I will order some calibration fluid but in the meantime should I calibrate to 1.001 to compensate for the temperature difference? I need it to be exact for the hyposalinity treatment to be effective.

Also, the 26G QT has shown no sign of ammonia so it seems the large sponge from the sump of the main tank has done the trick. Are the daily water changes still necessary? Are they for ammonia or to keep the pH stable? My boys are only 1 and 3 yrs old and daily water changes are proving to be a bit of a challenge...
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Old 11-24-2008, 01:59 PM   #18
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Most refractometers are ATC (automatic temperature compensating). Check for those 3 letters somewhere on the barrel near the eyepiece. It takes about 30 seconds for the compenstaion to kick in. I can sometimes see the line moving if I am quick and use a bright light source (morning sun).

RODI water should be reading 1.000. Calibration fluid usually is pegged at 35ppt (1.026).

Ca, Mg and Alk are not a concern. Ammonia and pH are. If you have 0 ammonia AND your pH is holding steady, then cut back on the water changes to every 2-3 days. I would not want to go longer than 3 days without a pwc in a qt tank. I doubt you can keep it stable (pH) that long without a pwc. Also, in an overcrowded tank it's just a good idea to refresh the water.
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Old 12-05-2008, 11:19 AM   #19
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I don't get it. All of my fish have been in a hospital tank at hyposalinity for a month now and today I see two white spots on my gramma's shoulder. Could this still be ich? None of the other fish have every shown any signs. I know the clock doesn't start until the last signs are gone, I just don't understand how the ich could still be around!
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Old 12-06-2008, 11:26 PM   #20
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From what I have researched, some forms of Crypt are showing tolerances to that of nearly freshwater exposure for long periods of time. I usually hypo <16ppt, around 14ppt just to be safe.
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