polyps not doing so well

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

justindoyle07

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Jun 19, 2012
Messages
3
hi

1. Type & how long you have had it: Jebo 75L running for 6 months
2. Current lighting & Bulb Age: Jebo original lighting compact tubes.not sure of age as the tank is second hand.
3. Nitrate:10-15 ppm
4. Calcium:400ppm
5. Phosphate:don't have a test kit for that. i have it checked at my local pet shop once a month. last time it was very low.
6. Alkalinity:need to check. think its about 25
7. pH:8.2
8. Salinity: within range
9. Temperature: 26.5 degc
10. Liquid or strip test kits:liguid red sea
11. Location in tank:bar area keep curtains closed
12. Current amount of flow:medium
13. Current tank dosing regimen:i add calcium 5ml every 2 days, coraline grow every day 5ml and zooplankton m every day 3ml.
14. Nearby coral: none i got button polyps but they are far.
15. Explanation of problem:i have these green polyps they were doing fine.
when i first put them in. now they look like some have died off the others look very unhappy don't open fully any more.
i tried moving them higher i put them on top of my live rock closer to the light seemed to work for a few days. they still not happy.
my button polyps still look perfect.
i had an outbreak of red slim shortly after i put them in.(top pic happy looking)
it is all cleared up now.(bottom pic not doing so well)
are these pagoda polyps?

thanks
thanks
 

Attachments

  • pagoda coral.jpg
    pagoda coral.jpg
    124 KB · Views: 115
  • 2012-05-20 17.29.25.jpg
    2012-05-20 17.29.25.jpg
    124.9 KB · Views: 123
Last edited:
justindoyle07 said:
hi

1. Type & how long you have had it: Jebo 75L running for 6 months
2. Current lighting & Bulb Age: Jebo original lighting compact tubes.not sure of age as the tank is second hand.
3. Nitrate:10-15 ppm
4. Calcium:400ppm
5. Phosphate:don't have a test kit for that. i have it checked at my local pet shop once a month. last time it was very low.
6. Alkalinity:need to check. think its about 25
7. pH:8.2
8. Salinity: within range
9. Temperature: 26.5 degc
10. Liquid or strip test kits:liguid red sea
11. Location in tank:bar area keep curtains closed
12. Current amount of flow:medium
13. Current tank dosing regimen:i add calcium 5ml every 2 days, coraline grow every day 5ml and zooplankton m every day 3ml.
14. Nearby coral: none i got button polyps but they are far.
15. Explanation of problem:i have these green polyps they were doing fine.
when i first put them in. now they look like some have died off the others look very unhappy don't open fully any more.
i tried moving them higher i put them on top of my live rock closer to the light seemed to work for a few days. they still not happy.
my button polyps still look perfect.
i had an outbreak of red slim shortly after i put them in.(top pic happy looking)
it is all cleared up now.(bottom pic not doing so well)
are these pagoda polyps?

thanks
thanks

Those are green Zoanthids.
I would definitely change out your bulbs, if the tank is second hand, and you've had it up for 6 months, it is pretty safe to say the bulbs are not good anymore.
How often do you do water changes?
Nitrates and phosphates could be part of the problem too.
Also Alk. Is important, and if dosing Ca, could also be low. I'm not sure what a 25 means? It is usually read in a Meq/l or a dKh number 1-14.
 
hi
i am going to look into changing the lights.
complete upgrade i will have to see what i can fit in my hood without having ugly screws and nuts sticking out my hood.
The compact tubes are not easy to find.
what should they be 10000k or 60000k
one tube white and one tube that bluish purple.
or 2 of each.
but i am also convinced its my lights because soon as i put them closer to the bulbs the
zoanthids (thanks for that) looked better.
my alk test goes up to 29 being too high. mine is somewhere in the middle.
i would love to have a larger tank but i'm renting and moving a smaller tank is easier.
i do water changes once every 2 week about 25l or so depending on the my nitrate readings. sometimes i may only change 15l.
I also noticed that im starting to get algae again its brown at the moment. hope it does not turn red.i used chemiclean to get rid of the red algae lastime.
 
justindoyle07 said:
hi
i am going to look into changing the lights.
complete upgrade i will have to see what i can fit in my hood without having ugly screws and nuts sticking out my hood.
The compact tubes are not easy to find.
what should they be 10000k or 60000k
one tube white and one tube that bluish purple.
or 2 of each.
but i am also convinced its my lights because soon as i put them closer to the bulbs the
zoanthids (thanks for that) looked better.
my alk test goes up to 29 being too high. mine is somewhere in the middle.
i would love to have a larger tank but i'm renting and moving a smaller tank is easier.
i do water changes once every 2 week about 25l or so depending on the my nitrate readings. sometimes i may only change 15l.
I also noticed that im starting to get algae again its brown at the moment. hope it does not turn red.i used chemiclean to get rid of the red algae lastime.

Hey Justin,
A four bulb unit would allow you to do any Soft, or LPS corals. 2-10,000-14,000k, and 2-actinics(blues).
You must have phosphates, if you are getting algae. I would work at reducing your phosphates and nitrates. The Red Slime algae is also being fed by these nutrients.
Old bulbs will help to grow the algae, worse than new bulbs, but aren't the root of the issue. It's the excessive nutrients.
I would do some, larger than usual water changes, and suck out any red algae you see with a siphon on an airline tube. If you just disperse the algae, it will only accumulate somewhere else. It is important to remove it.
Excessive nutrients can come from too much feeding, or not enough maintainence, or overstocking.
As far as the Alk test kit, if it's saying you are on the upper middle of the range, then you should be alright there. I'm just not familiar with that test scale.
Best of luck Justin!
 
hi
i made a mistake, its about 2,5 meq/l
i'm going to see if i can get a phosphates test kit.
is there any reason why i could have phosphates.
i have my water made up for me at my local pet shop.
i tested it for nitrates 0ppm
i have not tested it for phosphates.
i only feed what my fish eat i feed them one bit at a time.
i clean my gravel once a week. There are lots of tiny creatures living in my gravel i try to put them back. It is hard to clean around my live rock.
i think im going to change my gravel to a finer crushed corral.Take every thing out except for the fish and give it a good clean. i will only rinse the filter media in tank water then put it back.
thank
 
justindoyle07 said:
hi
i made a mistake, its about 2,5 meq/l
i'm going to see if i can get a phosphates test kit.
is there any reason why i could have phosphates.
i have my water made up for me at my local pet shop.
i tested it for nitrates 0ppm
i have not tested it for phosphates.
i only feed what my fish eat i feed them one bit at a time.
i clean my gravel once a week. There are lots of tiny creatures living in my gravel i try to put them back. It is hard to clean around my live rock.
i think im going to change my gravel to a finer crushed corral.Take every thing out except for the fish and give it a good clean. i will only rinse the filter media in tank water then put it back.
thank

You could be getting phosphates from the source water, if it's not RO/DI. And fish food when it breaks down will also cause phosphates as well.
 
Back
Top Bottom