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Old 02-25-2005, 06:22 PM   #1
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Possible Emergency with Clownfish, Banded Coral and Sea Serp

I bought these saltwater species from Live Aquaria that i recently bought.
: Sea Serpent
: Clownfish (small)
: 12 Scarlet Hermits
: 12 Turbo Snails
:1 Cleaner Shrimp
:1 Banded Coral Shrimp

The first day after aclimating my species they all seemed fine and ate heavily. However, after the 2nd my clownfish stopped eating and hasnt eaten for 2 days now. He shows very rapid breathing, however does not seem to hide. I also saw that underneath his third stripe, a white line was in sight, each hour it got larger and larger until it is as long as him. It looks almost as if his stripe is unwinding! My water quality and tests are fine considering I already have some hard to keep species in my tank that have been living peacefully for a few months now. I do not see any signs of aggresion except it seems the banded coral shrimp looks like it is trying to sneak up and attack it constantly. My other problem is my sea serpent is missing a leg and i am guessing the banded coral shrimp caused this. However, my friend insists that either my blenny, doctorfish, or my clown wrasse is causing it. ( all under 1 inch except blenny ) My friend's best guess is that the blenny did this but he shows no sign of aggression, it more or so looks like he is protecting him. Several times it appears that the banded coral shrimp is trying to sneak up on the serpent but the goby scares him away. Please give me info on who you think is the culprit is and how I should solve the problem. I also have another tank with fish all over 2.5 inches that i could move the banded coral shrimp into.
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Old 02-25-2005, 10:50 PM   #2
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Describe your tank(s): 20 gallon NANO 1 True Percula Clownfish 1 Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp 1 Doctorfish 1 Clown Wrasse 1 Banded Coral Wrasse 2 Gruntfish 1 Sea Serpent Fancy 1 Horned Blenny 24 Astrea and Turbo Snails 15 Dwarf and Scarlet Hermit Crabs
The above is from your profile. If this is indeed what you have in a 20 then I have to say your tank is VERY much over crowded. The heavy breathing is most likly the result of high ammonia. You say your tests are showing fine water quality but what are the exact values? Whats the brand of yoru test kit and whats the sensitivy of the kit?

How did you acclomate these fish?
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Old 02-25-2005, 11:18 PM   #3
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My PH is 7, salinity measures in at 1.024, ammonia levels are 0, my tank has a lot of live rock, no nitrates or ammonias, no alage, low phosphates, very abundant coraline alage. Also the tank is a 30 gallon. It has been going succesfully for 3 years with only two deaths, a clownfish pair due to hurricanes. I ordered these guys from live aquaria so I and guessing the high stress levels developed brook. Also my banded coral shrimp was recently moved into my other tank about 15 minutes ago because of him showing agrression, and we suspect he is the culprit behind my decapitated hermits and 3 armed sea serpent. Also I gave the clownfish a freshwater dip for 2 mins. How long do you think i should wait until attempting to see if he is better by feeding him?
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Old 02-25-2005, 11:38 PM   #4
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My PH is 7
This is way too low for a SW fish... The range for SW is about 7.4 to around 8.8. Your ideal should be in the 8.0 range.
Quote:
no nitrates or ammonias,
What kind of kit do you have? You should have some nitrates, even if it is minimal.

Quote:
Describe your tank(s): 20 gallon NANO 1 True Percula Clownfish 1 Scarlet Cleaner Shrimp 1 Doctorfish 1 Clown Wrasse 1 Banded Coral Wrasse 2 Gruntfish 1 Sea Serpent Fancy 1 Horned Blenny 24 Astrea and Turbo Snails 15 Dwarf and Scarlet Hermit Crabs
IMO, you are still WAY overstocked, even if it is 30 gallons. The wrasse alone will almost outgrow that tank.
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Old 02-25-2005, 11:49 PM   #5
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Also I gave the clownfish a freshwater dip for 2 mins. How long do you think i should wait until attempting to see if he is better by feeding him?
I thought FW dips should only be done when parasites are present, and even then, it shouldn't be pure FW, but actually more like a SG of 1.007 or something like that. When you do that, you throw off the electrostatic balance of the fish...it's a very stressful experience. I hope your fish makes it though...but it sounds like it's pretty stressed out now.

Good luck.
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Old 02-25-2005, 11:54 PM   #6
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I have a 70 gallon for my fish to grow in and even 280 gallon for ones that outgrow that
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Old 02-25-2005, 11:54 PM   #7
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I thought FW dips should only be done when parasites are present, and even then, it shouldn't be pure FW, but actually more like a SG of 1.007 or something like that. When you do that, you throw off the electrostatic balance of the fish...it's a very stressful experience. I hope your fish makes it though...but it sounds like it's pretty stressed out now.
It does appear to have parasites, at least that is what everyone is telling me
Thank you for your help
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Old 02-25-2005, 11:56 PM   #8
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My nitrates and amonias are so low they are almost undetectable
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Old 02-26-2005, 08:18 AM   #9
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You described your fish as showing stress not parasitic attachment. The Ph is way off by more than a factor of 10. PH should be at a minimum 8.0 and optimally between 8.2 and 8.3.

You never went into details on how you acclomated these new arrivals to the tank. Whom is everyone? Also if you could use the tags when quoting a previous message. It makes it much easier to follow. There for a minute I thought you was carrying on a conversaion with yourself until I realized it was a cut and paste from a different persons post. Almost undetectable and zero are different. In an established tank of 3 years you should have zero ammonia and nitrates between 5-20. Expecially given the bioload.
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Old 02-26-2005, 10:37 AM   #10
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My nitrates and amonias are so low they are almost undetectable
"Almost" undetectable? You should have absolutly no detectable ammonia. Also, what are your nitrites? Slowly bump up the Ph and think about reducing the number of fish in the tank.
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