Originally Posted by Mebbid
Well It's for sure now. My DT is now the sad owner of an Ich population. Leave it to me to learn the hard way to do things properly. I am wondering what everyone's preferred method of treating marine ich is? I've read up on it and from my personal standpoint I would prefer to go with either a hyposalinity treatment or a tank switch and clean out every 3 days.
If I choose the hyposalinity treatment I will have a 40g tank within a few days that should have plenty of space to house my 4 fish. Otherwise, I have two 15g tanks to use for the tank switch method.
1 - Does anyone have any thoughts on either of those methods for treating ich?
2 - How long should I leave my DT empty before putting my fish back in it?
3 - Has anyone tried any other methods that seemed easier or less stressful on fish?
4 - What's the easiest way to deal with ammonia / nitrite when doing a hyposalinity treatment?
5 - Would it be a good idea to add some sort of sand substrate to make my scooter blenny more comfortable in the hospital tank since he likes to bury himself at night?
6 - If I choose the tank cleanout method would a 15g tank be okay with ammonia levels if it gets a 100% water change every 3 days?
1- a very special combo that always works wonder to have your fish ich free in 3days, turn up the temperature to 30 C or 86 F add rid ich or contra spot, mix aquarium salt with your tank water then add it to the tank turn off all the lights close your tank with a sheet or blanket after 24hrs remove the sheet but keep the lights of have your air pump running at max for the full 3days add more inch meds every 24hrs over dose is better than under dose your babies will be ich free after the 3rd day aeration and heat is the two most important factors to curing ich and speak of serious experience.
2- I recommend 72hrs and longer if possible the ich virus life cycle is 48hrs in this period it needs a host (fish) to infect and reproduce, so by turning up the heat and adding medicine you speed up its life cycle and the meds can kill the infection, salt is only a sanitizer and distress or for the fish use caution to much salt and you risk burning your fish.
4- ammonia is easy to take care of but it's difficult to neutralise if your tank is active after a power shortage for a few days, what I recommend is anti ammonia bag you replace every 2nd month which you keep in the tank permanently another is a liquid form of anti ammonia you keep for dark days when you have no power, but you can add a few drops bi-weekly, always take aeration in consideration I have videos up on YouTube my 92l tropical fish tank the benefits of over over aeration is your fish won't suffer of a oxygen shortage or high ammonia level, there is one more thing you can get is nit river bacteria it is good germs which eats fish wast and left over food I add it once a week a few drops.
5- substrate mmmm fine black gravel or white its easier to maintain and to cultivate some good germs.
6- not advice able you running some serious risk of disease and high stress on your fish