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Old 08-22-2013, 07:15 PM   #21
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If you plan on doing the treatment in 2 stages, I'd recommend the tangs are in the first bunch. they are more suseptible to ick due to their lighter slime coats. But that means the other half stay in the 120 for an extra 2-3 weeks (or whatever the treatment calls for) plus an observation period (you don't want any ich to survive and make it to the 55.

I'd probably go with treating the entire school at one time, and then split them up after as you feel is appropriate (perhaps easier to catch fish get into the 55) once the single treatment is done.

as for the 120, the inverts can stay, they will not host the ich.

Good luck.
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Old 08-22-2013, 07:52 PM   #22
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If you plan on doing the treatment in 2 stages, I'd recommend the tangs are in the first bunch. they are more suseptible to ick due to their lighter slime coats. But that means the other half stay in the 120 for an extra 2-3 weeks (or whatever the treatment calls for) plus an observation period (you don't want any ich to survive and make it to the 55.

I'd probably go with treating the entire school at one time, and then split them up after as you feel is appropriate (perhaps easier to catch fish get into the 55) once the single treatment is done.

as for the 120, the inverts can stay, they will not host the ich.

Good luck.
Well I was wanting to treat the worst infested first. That's my rock beauty angel and kole tang. As of right now the bristletooth and sailfin don't have any ich showing. But my koran and 2 cardinals are already in the quarantine tank so I was just going to add the rock beauty and kole to that and treat all 5 of them together. Dont think the 37 gallon is big enough for all of the fish I have. So I was going to put the rest of the fish in the 55 and after I can take the 5 fish out of quaratine treat a few of the fish from the 55 at a time and slowly put them back into the 120 and then have all of my fish just live in the 120 from then on and just get new fish for the 55 after leaving it empty for 2 months. I will quarantine those new fish tho lol
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Old 08-22-2013, 09:01 PM   #23
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and another question. if there were any other types of diseases on any of the fish like fin rot, flukes anything really will that get out of the system after being fishless for 2 months as well? Are those things that are only on the fish and don't have a free swimming stage like ich? or do I need to do something different to get other diseases out of the water?
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:11 AM   #24
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Well lost my rock beauty. Idk wat went on during the night. But I found her halfway under a rock.. like she decided to bury herself under there. Her whole body was bruised.. she was still alive when I found her. Tried to put her in quarantine but she died in the middle of acclamation.. I'm totally heart broken. That was my favorite fish. I spent $45 ordering 2 things of fish food just to have food with sponge in it for that dang fish. It was frozen so had to pay overnight shipping. No stores around had it. As of yesterday she was still eating like a pig and swimming normal. Just had ich. But the ich had looked better than it did the day before yesterday. I just don't know.. just really heart broken. She always came to the glass and looked right at me and would always stay right where I was.. my other fish only come to the glass when they think their getting food an run away when I bend down to look at them or even put my hand to the glass. Ugh
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Old 08-23-2013, 11:33 AM   #25
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Sorry to hear bout your fish.
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Old 08-23-2013, 12:04 PM   #26
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Man just found my tusk on the floor jumped out the QT I'm so mad got to get a next one dam.
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Old 08-23-2013, 02:04 PM   #27
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Wow...was busy with my new tank transfer yesterday so was not on...come back and fish are dying, tusks are jumping out...sorry for both of you. Wrasses are jumpers, so you've gotta have something on the top.

As for the OP...I think the fish will be fine on QT, you've just got to watch them, as fish can sometimes snap and become more aggressive when you move them into tighter quarters. Keep an eye on water parameters too.

The two months fallow should take care of whatever is in the DT. Depending on treatment, the QT can wipe out a lot too. I don't think there is one thing between copper or hypo that kills everything...some things can survive one or the other. Odds are that if the fish had something like MV, they would have displayed signs and been dead within days, so some things can kind of be eliminated just by the fact that your fish are alive.
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Old 08-23-2013, 06:54 PM   #28
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So what do you treat ich with on fish that are sensitive to copper? Like flame angels for instance?
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Old 08-23-2013, 07:12 PM   #29
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Hyposalinity is what I prefer for Ich. IMO, copper is basically a poison if overdosed and hypo is more of a "natural" remedy. Hypo needs to be accurate (refractometer a are much more accurate than hydrometers) but I've had success on the past using it.
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Old 08-23-2013, 08:45 PM   #30
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Hyposalinity is what I prefer for Ich. IMO, copper is basically a poison if overdosed and hypo is more of a "natural" remedy. Hypo needs to be accurate (refractometer a are much more accurate than hydrometers) but I've had success on the past using it.
Hypo-salinity only works for ich. What if there's a next problem? If you test for copper you will not have a problem I have been doing this for a while now and never had a problem.
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