Quarantine tank for ich

[redsea]

So when I set this up, how would you all recommend cycling it? Thank you!

 

[oO BRIGHTY Oo]

We just set our one up today, we have sacrificed a couple of small pieces of LR from the DT to help kick start the cycle quicker.

 

[clownfishy]

After i got a severe case of ich i bought a UV sterlizer for my tank and it was very well priced. I havent had the slightest problem yet

 

[oO BRIGHTY Oo]

2nd on the UV, our clown is back to full health because of it and will be thinking of re-stocking in a couple of weeks!

 

[all4wheels2]

So when I set this up, how would you all recommend cycling it? Thank you!

How are you going to be treating the ich (i.e. hypo, copper)?

This is the second time I've set up a QT for ich I don't cycle it. I take the water from the DT. I always use hypo, which does have an affect on the beneficial bacteria - so your cycling attempts may be in vein. If nothing else, it will slow down the BB production.

 

[redsea]

How are you going to be treating the ich (i.e. hypo, copper)?

This is the second time I've set up a QT for ich I don't cycle it. I take the water from the DT. I always use hypo, which does have an affect on the beneficial bacteria - so your cycling attempts may be in vein. If nothing else, it will slow down the BB production.

So I don't really cycle it? Can you give me the steps in order, LOL. Thanks! By the way, I think I would be using hypo.

 

[BallinCrew10]

The water from the DT doesn't contain the bacteria. Only your LR and any filter media do. Some people keep a biowheel running on the back of their tank and when its time to setup the QT you just throw it on and there's no cycle. Only other way is to put a biowheel with no bacteria on the QT an put some LR or rubble in the QT to seed the biowheel. If you're treating with hypo there will be no prob putting the LR back once you've treated the ich.

 

[all4wheels2]

So I don't really cycle it? Can you give me the steps in order, LOL. Thanks! By the way, I think I would be using hypo.

I honestly don't know how the tank could cycle completely. What I do...and I'm in no way an expert at this, I was just caught between a rock and a hard place...

(1) fill the QT with 1/2 DT water, 1/2 newly made water (regular salinity)
(2) over 24 hours drop the salinity down to where you want it. I've been removing a 1/2 gal tank water and replacing it with freshwater every 2 hours or so.
(3) good idea to have a bottle of AmQuel on hand and some pH buffer.
(4) make sure you clean the bottom of the tank with the syphon during water changes.
(5) feed often

The last time I did this, I never got my tank to fully cycle. I ended up doing 40 - 50% water changes every other day (less towards the end) and using AmQuel to control the ammonia. WATCH THE PH! The lower the salinity, the lower the pH - and it WILL kill your fish. As long as mine doesn't drop below 7.8, I don't add any buffer. The whole process definitely sucks - maybe someone else has a better way lol.

Right now, I have 4 fish in a 10g QT. Not ideal, but easier for me to change 50% of the water regularly. I'm at 1.018 specific gravity right now. Although refractometers are recommended, I still use a hydrometer. I shoot for 1.012 to accommodate any error range, and then just maintain that for 4 weeks.

Hope this helps.

 

[BallinCrew10]

I've never treated for ich, and I'm not an expert on treating methods, but dropping the salinity that fast seems a little too quick to me. I could be wrong but every 2 hours seems fast.

 

[all4wheels2]

Dropping from 1.023 to 1.012 over 24 hours is not too fast. Reversing the salinity at the end of the treatment is where you have to be careful and it should take several days if not a full week to do.

Low salinity is very relaxing and requires less energy for the fish to breathe. It also creates more oxygen in the water, again making it easier on the fish.

But this is all just my experience and research

 

[BallinCrew10]

Dropping from 1.023 to 1.012 over 24 hours is not too fast. Reversing the salinity at the end of the treatment is where you have to be careful and it should take several days if not a full week to do.

Low salinity is very relaxing and requires less energy for the fish to breathe. It also creates more oxygen in the water, again making it easier on the fish.

But this is all just my experience and research

Like I said, I have no experience in the matter. Kudos to you for doing your homework lol

 

[all4wheels2]

Like I said. I have no experience in the matter. Kudos to you for doing your homework lol

That's a good thing - it means you're doing something right lol.

If I would've done more research in the beginning, I wouldn't be in this situation now, and I wouldn't be out a couple hundred dollars worth of fish

 

[leftyfish]

That's a good thing - it means you're doing something right lol.

If I would've done more research in the beginning, I wouldn't be in this situation now, and I wouldn't be out a couple hundred dollars worth of fish

You need to keep the salinity below 1.010, 1.009 ideal, for four weeks AFTER the last spot is noticed. here is a great link on hypo, and definitely have and use amquel if tank is not cycled with a sponge from DT.

http://atj.net.au/marineaquaria/hyposalinity.html

 

[redsea]

You need to keep the salinity below 1.010, 1.009 ideal, for four weeks AFTER the last spot is noticed. here is a great link on hypo, and definitely have and use amquel if tank is not cycled with a sponge from DT.

ATJ's Marine Aquarium Site - Reference - Hyposalinity Treatment

Ok, thank you for the link! I appreciate it!

 

[leftyfish]

Ok, thank you for the link! I appreciate it!

It saved my two clowns after ich killed the rest of my tank. They seemed to be calm in the hypo and did great. Now I have a fully cycled QT with two new fish being treated with copper this time. Good luck, oh, get a ammonia badge too, very helpful at a glance and they last up to a year.

 

[all4wheels2]

You need to keep the salinity below 1.010, 1.009 ideal, for four weeks AFTER the last spot is noticed. here is a great link on hypo, and definitely have and use amquel if tank is not cycled with a sponge from DT.

ATJ's Marine Aquarium Site - Reference - Hyposalinity Treatment

I've read just about every hyposalinity treatment link on the web lol. They range from 1.008 - 1.015 to treat for ich, I really haven't seen any consistency. Last time I treated with 1.012 and all was fine and those fish are still ich free. Any lower than that and I would be worried, especially since all fish do not have the same tolerance for "freshwater" conditions.

Just remember, the lower your salinity, the lower your alkalinity, pH and all else. Definitely check parameters daily. One wrong slip to 1.007/8 and you could kill all your fish

 

[leftyfish]

I've read just about every hyposalinity treatment link on the web lol. They range from 1.008 - 1.015 to treat for ich, I really haven't seen any consistency. Last time I treated with 1.012 and all was fine and those fish are still ich free. Any lower than that and I would be worried, especially since all fish do not have the same tolerance for "freshwater" conditions.

Just remember, the lower your salinity, the lower your alkalinity, pH and all else. Definitely check parameters daily. One wrong slip to 1.007/8 and you could kill all your fish

The salinity will only go up with evaporation, so once you get it at 1.009-1.010 you mix new water to that, and draw a line and replace with RO/DI water. No chance to go lower unless you dump a lot of water in beyond your evaporation.

Yes, there are a lot of things on the web, I try to go with a method that experienced aquarist recommend. That is how I was led to the link I provided.

Your ph must be buffered and measured, it tells you that in the article. I buffered mine with baking soda and measured it daily. No problems, two clown fish.

 

[LyndaB]

Not sure if anyone mentioned this or not, as I skimmed through the posts.

When you treat ich, you must treat the entire tank, not just the fish you see spots on. Setting up a QT tank for this purpose won't get rid of the problem.

 

[melosu58]

An Ounce of Prevention is Worth a Pound of Cure: A Quarantine Tank for Everything by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com


Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part I by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com

Marine Ich/Cryptocaryon irritans - A Discussion of this Parasite and the Treatment Options Available, Part II by Steven Pro - Reefkeeping.com