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Old 04-03-2013, 08:00 PM   #11
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+1

Even if you had BB, the bio load with that many fish in that small a tank could easily overload it. They just lost 100 gallons plus whatever size sump you have) but are still putting out the same amount of waste. It's basically more concentrated now. The BB in the foam will help, but I'm guessing water changes are going to become a regular occurrence for a while to keep your parameters in check.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:06 PM   #12
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Right, I am feeding them about every 2-3 days now as well so the tangs cant crop dust the tank. Should I turn on their light for a few hours a day or none at all? and can i give the tanks a small piece of their seaweed every few days?
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:08 PM   #13
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Cutting back on feeding will help produce less waste, but you also want to feed enough to keep them healthy/strong so they can fight this off. The less stress right now, the better for them.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:18 PM   #14
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what would you recommend for a feeding schedule for them? And also a added note the heniocus and coral beauty were the only ones that were showing ick at the time of the quarantine and they would get it for a week and then drop it and then it would come back, one of the regal tangs started to scratch on the live rock and on the sand, but showed no signs of ick spots, the coral beauty has been in a qt tank for about 2 days longer than the others and the two regals have also been quarantined at the beginning of the ick cycle but they were in a smaller tank and the levels would not stay stable so they had to come back to the dt after about 9 days. They eat food soaked in garlic every meal.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:29 PM   #15
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I think every 2-3 days is fine. Tangs and the Heniochus need greens, so the seaweed is good for them. Garlic is supposed to help too.

There are a lot of good articles online about Ich. Lots of links on other threads here too. Read up on it, as there is a lot of confusion surrounding this. The spots will drop off as part of the life cycle, but it goes into the sand and multiplies. That is why you want to leave your DT fallow for 6-8 weeks. Without a host, all the Ich in there will die off. It needs a fish/host to survive. You add your fish back in earlier and its just in there thanking you for giving it a host.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:34 PM   #16
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I know a good bit about it my only problems is that i can not keep the qt this is my second time dealing with ick and i lost everybody the first go around so i trying not to lose anybody this time. I was also told about raising the water to 80+ degrees and it helps with the ick do you have any comments on this?
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:38 PM   #17
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That works for freshwater ick. Temp doesn't help at all for marine ick.
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:44 PM   #18
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okay my dt stays around 80-82 degrees because of the lights and it didn't seem to be helping so i wanted to ask. Another question is do the fish need to stay in the copper for the whole 6-8 weeks or can i start running carbon to remove the copper in a couple weeks and they just have a regular tank?
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Old 04-03-2013, 08:53 PM   #19
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Exactly with the temp. That is a freshwater trick.

Please do not take this the wrong way, but you are saying you know quite a bit, but seem confused about a lot. Reading a few articles really should explain all about the Ich, what treatments work (and don't) and a lot more. The good news is that you are using QT with copper, which works to cure the fish. If you can not keep them in QT for a 6-8 week period, odds are they will go back into the DT which will still have Ich and this vicious cycle will continue. Some fish are strong enough to fight it off and some people just let it run its course and do not QT. They try to keep pristine water conditions and maintain a stress-free environment and hope that it clears itself up. I get that it can work, but I've lost fish to Ich before and that "hope for the best" gameplan just doesn't work for me. IMO, you are on the right track with what you are doing
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Old 04-03-2013, 09:09 PM   #20
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yeah im not trying to say that i am a genius at this but from what i have read and asked about i know a little bit. My QT is testing at

ammonia .25-.50
copper 1.0 i added a little more and will retest
nitrate 5.0
nitrite 0
ph 7.8-8.0
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