Regal Blue Tang in Quarantine

[johnkristie]

I've had a large Regal Blue Tang (6-7 inches) in my 30 gal quarantine tank for about a week now. Things seem to be going OK so far, but he seems to be developing one cloudy eye. The other seems fine, just his right eye is cloudy. He eats great and is very active in the tank. What might this be and do I need to do anything about it?

 

[steve-s]

Best thing is a few water changes. A single cloudy eye is often from ailing water quality or a simple injury. If either of these, several water changes with well aged/aerated SW will remedy it quite quickly. Being a tang, also be sure it gets a good variety of veggies, fortified foods with vitamins and plenty of places in the QT to hide. Keep the stress at a minimum and the overhead light off as much as possible except to observe as needed. It should clear up rather quickly with those simple means, if not post back.

Cheers
Steve

 

[johnkristie]

I have not been checking the water chemistry, but I've been doing 20% water changes daily, so I assumed the levels were OK. Do I need to do more than that? I've been feeding him Ocean Nutrition Formula 2 and Pygmy Angel Formula as well as Nori daily. I will turn the lights down. The water I've been using is natural seawater taken from 1/2 mile out in the Pacific.

 

[Brenden]

Water quality could very leasily be bad with that size fish in a 30gal QT. I norm do two wc a day while in QT. The amonia badges you can get come in handy for keeping a eye on QT water quality.

 

[steve-s]

Brenden makes an excellent point, you need to be testing these things to guage what needs to be done and how often. Nitrogens, pH, salinity and temp are your main concern during the QT process as is stress control and a proper diet. If all are maintained to the needs of the fish, it will come out of the process for the better.

FWIW, the use of NSW is not a very good choice for a variety of reasons. You are much better off using synthetic salts for the simple reason it is not contaminated with polutants/impurities that can easily affect your animals. Curious, what steps do you take to "purify" the water you collect?

Cheers
Steve

 

[johnkristie]

The source I get it from is the intake line for a public aquarium. They run it through activated sand filters and a 20 micron filter. Other than that, I don't do anything to it. But, I've been using this same water in my home tank now for a couple of years with no problem. Do you think that the 20% water change per day is enough? Is what I'm feeding him now OK?

 

[steve-s]

The source I get it from is the intake line for a public aquarium. They run it through activated sand filters and a 20 micron filter. Other than that, I don't do anything to it. But, I've been using this same water in my home tank now for a couple of years with no problem.

If you have easy access to a UV, I would also suggest employing that as well. The process used by the aquarium is enough to filter most pollutants but does nothing for pathogens. The extra step will ensure peace of mind.

Do you think that the 20% water change per day is enough?

Let your tests determine the amount and frequency of your water changes. It's difficult for anyone to say either way simpley by tank size and bioload. If you do say two 10% water changes (AM/PM) and the nitogens stay in line then it's all good. If not increase it to 15% 2x daily or more if needed. In a QT situation, you are usually better off doing the water changes more than once a day. Ammonia can creep up significantly in 24 hrs time.

Is what I'm feeding him now OK?

Yes all of those are quite good, if you have it available, I also like their spirulina formula. Also try to soak the foods (after thawing) in some Selcon or the like every few days. You might also find broccoli fluorets a little easier on the water quality. Nori tends to get a bit messy in a smaller tank and disintegrates faster. The broccoli will be just as good but easier on you. Just be sure it is frozen for a few days to soften the fibers. Raw veggies are too hard on the fish's digestive system.

Cheers
Steve

 

[johnkristie]

Thanks so much, Steve. Great comments!

 

[johnkristie]

You guys were right on. I've checked the ammonia and it is up around 0.7 mg/L. I have done everything I can think of to get rid of it, but just can't seem to get it to budge from 0.7 mg/L. I'm doing about 35 percent water change per day, running activated carbon along with zeolite, and have a biological filter pad. I've also cut back on the feeding. The Blue Tang's eye is still cloudy, but other than that he seems to be OK. Eating fine and very active. But he obviously cannot see very well out of that one eye. I'm tempted to just go ahead and transfer him to my main tank where I know the water quality is fine. He has been in quarantine for 2 weeks now. But on the other hand, because of his damaged eye the established fish might pick on him even more.

 

[Brenden]

Try a poly-filter in your QT. Do you have a filter pad etc you can transfer from your main that will seed the QT and help with the bio-load?

 

[johnkristie]

I've got a poly filter in their now that I had transferred from my main tank. Maybe I should bring another one from the main tank.

 

[steve-s]

Be sure to rinse any pads in SW daily to remove organics. The build up will hinder water quality. Also FWIW, the Zeo will not be effective in a SW environment. In my research and info exchange with others, it does not perform the same ion exchange you would see in a FW environment. The Zeo becomes ammonia saturated quite quickly and then becomes a "bacterial source" as they will be attracted to the NH3. It will do more to hinder than help in this situation.

RE: Polyfilter, be sure it is a true poly pad and not simpley filter floss, they are not remotely the same.

polyfilter

Cheers
Steve