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Old 09-21-2004, 11:09 PM   #11
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I stopped it a week ago and have since changed 25% water and run carbon for a week.
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Good luck! Kat
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Old 09-22-2004, 12:53 AM   #12
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Good, agree with Steve, do the water change and start the copper treatment.
Do you have a copper test kit? Need it to get it to treatment level. If not follow direstions to the tee and definately get the test kit. Too much or too little may do her in.
Please don't dip her, at this point I doubt if she could take it.
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:21 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by electrikat
I stopped it a week ago and have since changed 25% water and run carbon for a week.
So when the treatment was finished, it sounds like the ich was still a problem? Hence the post for the dip?

If the coppersafe is all the LFS has then that's really all you can do but you must treat with an antibiotic as well. Be sure as Quarry posted above you get the proper test kit to measure the copper and be sure you keep an eye on water quality. Both the antibiotic and the copper will destroy the biofilter in the process.

Both must be performed in a QT and not the main tank.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 09-22-2004, 06:38 PM   #14
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a uv sterilizer helps great i would not sell mine for the world.
steve-s i study chem in school. i have had a sw tank for about 4 years now and i have always use baking soda to raise the ph in my qt tank. i dont put it in my main tank . i have a ref. if you would like to check it out ?
baker
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Old 09-22-2004, 07:15 PM   #15
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Well she didn't make it. I'm not sure I want to try another blue. This is the second one(one regal and one powder) that we have lost to ich. I know they are susceptible to it but this is rediculous.
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Old 09-22-2004, 10:35 PM   #16
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Sorry to hear about the tang. Keep your head up, I have had some painful experiences in this hobby as I'm sure most of us have, but we are here as a community to help and that is inspiring. I have a cool little hippo that had ich initially and was treated with hypo. Take your time and get another, it's the best thing you can do right now...but find another supplier. Start with a nice healthy specimen that eats. Having an ich treatment like copper (& test kit) ready is also good. As you probably know, you'll have to drain, rinse and dry out the qt to let whatever was in there die off. Sounds like they are coming to you with more than ich from that lfs; ich shouldn't kill in 2 weeks (if it was already advanced, you would not have bought him). Anyway you need to get a good fish to begin with, qt, give him good water quality and plenty of swimming room (and hiding places), offer a variety of food (they do not take long to eat) and you will be rewarded with a happy & healthy tang!
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by border324
steve-s i study chem in school. i have had a sw tank for about 4 years now and i have always use baking soda to raise the ph in my qt tank.
Then I guess I shouldn't need to tell you that baking soda has very little effect on pH overall (volume depending) but does have an enormous impact on alkalinity. Even 1 tspn/gal would raise the alkalinity 20 mEq/l in SW so imagine what 1 tbsp/gal would do.


Quote:
i have a ref. if you would like to check it out ?
Please post it 8)

Cheers
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Old 09-22-2004, 11:05 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by electrikat
Well she didn't make it. I'm not sure I want to try another blue. This is the second one(one regal and one powder) that we have lost to ich. I know they are susceptible to it but this is rediculous.
Sorry for your loss

Agreed with srgetz but if you feel easier using copper, I would highly recommend Cupramine of all other forms of copper. It is the least harmful and tolerated by a wide variety of fish. Just be sure you get the corresponding multitest copper test for an accurate reading. A ammonia alert badge would be a plus as well.

If you have a refractometer and are sure you are treating C. irritans, the absolute best treatment if needed is >>hyposalinity<<.

Cheers
Steve
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