sick anemone?

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jbro

Aquarium Advice Regular
Joined
Aug 8, 2004
Messages
83
Location
Angola, NY
Hi,
I just recently added a green carpet anemome to my tank. He was doing fine for the first few days, opening up, looking pink and healthy. He moved from substrate, over a rock, anback to substrate onother side. This is where he is now in the pic. He's benn like this for a 1 1/2 days now, and his "inverted stomach" looks to be either chewed up or releasing something. Is this normal?
My water parameters are fine, (except nitrates 20ppm). I have low lighting, but am upgrading Monday. 2 things are bothering me: 1) he was shipped to me from california, but fed-ex had mechanical problems, and he had to stay overnight. I drip-acclimated him for over an hour, and, like I said, seemed fine. 2) as soon as I added him to the main tank, my peppermint shrimp took to him and have benn on him ever since. I was told by many this is not a problem.
Should I try to movee him on top of a rock, closer to light and away from shrimp? (they usually stay on the bottom). I tried feeding him fresh shrimp, but didn't take.
 

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I have lost two carpets. Both did good for a couple of days then they inverted their mouths and started to rot. The meat started to look soft and chalky and mushy. Not the normal mushy but a grainy kind of mushy. Ammonia spike from hell and when I tried to pick him up with a net he disintegrated. Keep a very close eye out for any of this because your water conditions will deteriorate very fast if he goes over the edge. Try to pick it up with a net and see if he retracts like a normal healthy one will. I have metal halide so the lighting was not the problem. I have never had a problem with any other kind of anemone, only the carpets.
 
his condition is definitely deteriorating. there are chunks of him falling off, and he has white slime covering his tentacles.
according to liveaquaria.com I am supposed to put the deceased in a ziplock bag and freeze him for shipment back for a 14 -day refund.
when I saw his condition this morning, I started to do that, but he responded to touch. I'd hate to kill him if there's a chance he could survive. I was thinking of asking the LFS if they would take him. maybe they could save him. In any case I think I should get him out of the main tank. I haven't checked yet, but have a feeling I will have ammonia spike. going to check now.
 
I lost him. had to take him out. getting credited for 1/2 by supplier. may tank is starting to spike. going to to large WC. I'll try for a quadricolor when eveything settles down. thanks for your response. i know i didn't have him for long, but you always feel horrible with a loss.
 
I've had it twice and it is a great personal and financial loss. I definitely feel for you. Better luck next time though.
 
Sorry to hear about it. Can you file a claim with FedEx for the shipping mishap? Might want to start running some fresh GAC as well as doing a water change.
 
Thanks, lando. I had the carbon in my hands at LFS, but they said I'd be alright without it. I'm taking off of work today to monitor the tank.
Yes, I need to file a claim with fed-ex. Thanks for reminding me.
 
I agree, the carbon is not needed in a tank all of the time. I run carbon once week a month. In your case, it will help absorb some toxins your anemone may have released. It will just help clear the water faster for you. Let us know how things go...Lando
 
I just did a 20% WC. I'm going to check parameters in a couple hours. In the mean time, I'll obtain the carbon.
I can't tell how GUILTY I feel for trying such a touchy specimen this early ( tank and my experience only 5 mo. old). I always research first, but I guess I was blinded by it's beauty and the seemingly perfect conditions of my set-up). I am going to be MUCH more rational with future additions. I'll keep in touch.
 
I can't tell how GUILTY I feel for trying such a touchy specimen this early
Don't feel bad, I think we have all been there at one time or another. Just a couple months after I started my tank up for the second time (and before I found AA) I to bought a nice carpet anemone. Who knew it would not survive under NO lights? The nice thing about this hobby is tht we can all learn from each other's mistakes.
 
water parameters Ok after WC. sg= 1.024 (where I always keep it), NH3 =0ppm, NH2- =0ppm, pH =8.0, NO3- =40ppm. Prior to WC, sg= 1.026, NH3 =.25ppm, NH2- =.25ppm, pH =7.8, NO3- =>40<80ppm. I feel better, but I'm off to get the GAC. I plan to use bag and place in front of overflow return in sump. That sound OK?
 
FYI-
55gal main tank as room divider (3 sides), 20gal sump with Mag Drive 5, (2) Penguin PH, Remora HOB skimmer, 3" CC with 6lbs LS, 60lbs LR, 1 Pink damsel, 2 ocallaris clowns, yellow tang, neon gobi, hermits, 3 Peppermint shrimp, Blue Linckia Star, Orange Marble Star. Hitchhikers: (4) brown brittlestars, (4) emerald crabs, pencil urchin, britsle worms, feather dusters, plus sessiles (sponges) to ID.

And... I meant NO2-, not NH2-.
 
It is good that you feel the way you do. Alot of times people wait to long to take the coral that is dying out of the tank. I`ve seen many a person foul up his tank by waiting too long. You did the right thing to save the rest of your tankmates. You are on the right road. Good luck
 
It was a good decision this time. You are so right, melosu. He deteriorated rapidly enough that it was a no-brainer. But it got me to think long and hard about a QT tank.
 
A QT tank would not have done anything in regards to the anemone. In fact, any kind of moving them around typically just makes it worse. Not to be mean but your first consideration should be your water parameters. 20 ppm nitrates are far too high for a sensitive invert as this. The higher elevations are tolerated by some fish and mabye even a few soft coral species but not an anemone.

Get that straightend around, allow the tank some additional time to mature and mabye rethink the lighting(?). If you decide to attempt this in the far future, I would also suggest something a species a bit more tolerant like a BTA clone.

Cheers
Steve
 
steve-s said:
A QT tank would not have done anything in regards to the anemone. In fact, any kind of moving them around typically just makes it worse. Not to be mean but your first consideration should be your water parameters. 20 ppm nitrates are far too high for a sensitive invert as this. The higher elevations are tolerated by some fish and mabye even a few soft coral species but not an anemone.

Get that straightend around, allow the tank some additional time to mature and mabye rethink the lighting(?). If you decide to attempt this in the far future, I would also suggest something a species a bit more tolerant like a BTA clone.

Yes, steve. I agree I've been extemely patient up until now, and I have to get back into that frame of mind. I'm working with LFS on the nitrates and I've already upgraded my lighting. (2) PC 65w 50/50. Not the best, but still an upgrade. No additions for quite a while (except for an Orchid Dottyback). As far as the the far future for aemones, LFS keeps nice bubble tips. And, you are not being mean, it's called constructive criticism and it's welcomed anytime.
 
jbro said:
I've already upgraded my lighting. (2) PC 65w 50/50. Not the best, but still an upgrade.
You might want to talk to the LFS about something different if you've got your mind set on a reef tank. Some low light softies and/or shrooms might do okay with a 2x65w set up but you really should look at a 4x65w if you want much more.

I don't think a BTA would be do-able under the exsiting lights. :(

Cheers
Steve
 
You're right about that to, of course. I've read the minimum WPG for anemones is 4. My calculation for what I have now is 2 WPG.
I did start start out with the intention of FOWLR, but I am getting hooked on reefs. So, another chunk of change next paycheck.
On another note, the LFS is not a store, but local guy that services tanks. He helped me set up my sump. I trust his opinion, but he has the sump with nothing in it. I think I should add LR to help with the nitrates. That would increase my overall ratio of LR to water. What do you think?
 
It would add to your biological surface areas. Just be sure you leave room for equipment as well. Sumps are great for heaters, skimmers and other unsightly stuff that doesn't need to be in/on the tank.

Cheers
Steve
 
I already have the PS and the heater in the sump. There is room for base rock. The sump is in the cabinet, therefore, in the dark.
Here is a pic of half the main tank. The half you don't see has the overflow box. Any reccomendations would be appreciated. I'll get you pics of the whole tank and the sump set up if you want. And thanks for sticking with this thread. I really want to do what's best for the inhabitants.

Jack
 

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