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Old 11-26-2012, 06:05 AM   #1
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Sick Devils Finger Coral

Hello having had saltwater for as long as we have, we have bascily tryed everything and checked everything and we can seem to understand why this leather is not doing so good.

Looks alot lighter pailer colour then used to be, looks like its sheding but has been like that for 8 months now, doesnt open at all, not even his polyps, used to open everyday 3 times the size he is now. Not riped or rotted at all, just doesnt seem happy. Used to have a nice Starry Blenny who would sit/perch on it everyday, didnt seem to bug it at all. Would be green normaly and when fully open would be brown.

He is Green Devils Finger Leather Coral and we have had him for about a year now, its doesnt seem to be the lighting as the bulbs were changed a month ago. And the leather is not the picky on lighting. Normal weekly water changes, nitrates and all are fine, we use liquid tests. Salinity sits at 1.027 and Temperature at 77.5F in a 120 gal reef and 50 gal sump with protein skimmer, carbon and bio reactors, moderate to high flow, runs on a reef keeper, lights on from 12-9pm, with light in rufuge at night. He sits in the middle of the tank on rock structure, with only some softys, leathers, anemones, mushrooms, invertabrates (good sized crabs) fish include, yellow tang, chromis, leopard wrasse, zebra moray eel, maroon clown. We feedfish about 3-4 times a week, use reef rods, tank it 6 months old with stock, rock and sand upraded from a 75gal that was a year old.

Dont seem to know why he is like he is, looks like he is in a shed but has been like that for about 8 months now. Before we upgraded he was like that hoped the change would help, have tryed everything sense, moved him to different spots, and waited weeks to see if he would get happy and open again.

Can anyone help me out here?

First pic of coral now second of him when he used to be happy third pic of him and the blenny and fourth pic of him and blenny when he is brown coloured.
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Old 11-27-2012, 10:39 PM   #2
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How about your Ca and Alk levels?

Any other coral issues in the tank?

What kind of lighting is it?

What do you have for flow?
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Old 11-28-2012, 01:16 AM   #3
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The last tests where a will ago and we need to buy a new test kit for Ca as its expired :S and the a pH test needs to be done, but Im in need to find the instruction sheet for my new test kit for pH so ill have to get back to you, we try to keep our salinity at 1.025-1.028 and we have had past problems yes some of them seem stable now, as we have only been dealing with SW for about 3 years now.

As for leathers we only currently have a Kenya Tree in that (120) tank as we moved the Devils Finger to the Seahorse tank ( in hopes it will get better from the bit of change..) where its the same salinity but temp is a diff its 74F (its a 26gal+10galsump)and the 120 reef is 77 as seahorses need cooler, also in there tank is a carnation coral, and cabage coral


Kenya (in 120) seems normal growing, sheding, and such, opens everyday unless its shedding... had for a few years and has shed off peices that are now growing succesfully

Cabage (in SH) only had it 2 weeks now, was opening fine at first seems to not be really opening now, but not bleaching out like the devils finger is, and it has its long feeding tenticles out the other day, for a few days.. then didnt open so we moved it from its first placement- mid section of the tank on a rock, to the bottom.

Carnation (in SH) opens pritty much every day unless its shedding, onnly had a few months, sometimes it looks unhappy and sometimes its opens huge, then drops down lol seems kinda normal.


Lighting in 120 is 10 three foot t5 white bulbs, (5 on eachside) they are 12k. With vertex blue LEDs
and flow is Medium to High, mostly medium

Lighting in Seahorse is 2 one foot t5 white, 12K, and 2 blue one foot t5
and flow is low for the seahores, and medium at feeding time as we turn a fan on to move the food when feeding the sehores, so once to twice a day for about a half our..



Never seem to be able to keep SPS , some Lps for a while then they die for reasons unknown and some because of issues that have been fixed, like worms, water quaility at the time, other livestock in tank...etc
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:24 AM   #4
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Sorry 120 light bulbs are 60w and seahorse light bulbs are 40w
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:23 PM   #5
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Take a turkey baster and blow the shedding skin off or it will never open ,these need lots of flow to keep the skin they shed from sticking to it....
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Old 11-28-2012, 06:25 PM   #6
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Btw a leather in a seahorse tank it not a good idea as seahorse tanks have very low flow ,
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Old 11-28-2012, 07:55 PM   #7
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The leathers we have in the seahorse tank seem fine being the carnation coral, and cabage, we were hoping from the change the finger would get better the flow in the 120 does the job plus we use a baster and such for extra help... We dont beleive its a sheding problem as we have cleaned it off several times... What would would u suggest for a seahorse tank? We do clean the corals with the baster and small fan..
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