Sick Frogspawn Coral and Red Algae Problem!!

[BlueDolphin]

Hello all! I haven't posted in awhile, but lately I've been having a few problems I thought someone could help with. First off I have a 60 gallon tank that's been running for about 7 months. I have 1 Regal Tang, 1 Percula Clown, Frogspawn Coral frag, some polyp coral frag that I have yet to identify, and various snails, crabs and shrimp. Well, the Frogspawn coral has been doing fine for the past 4 months, but during the past week the tentacles haven't been extended much at all. The only thing I've done differently to the tank is add a bag of the chemi-pure. I don't have a calcium or phosphate test kit so I can't give those parameters (I know I know). Any ideas?!

My second problem is red algae that has been spreading on the top of my substrate. I use a tap water filter from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals, I don't over-feed, and I don't think my lights are left on too long. What else could be causing this algae and how do I GET RID of it??

Any ideas on these two problems would be greatly appreciated.

TIA!

 

[steve-s]

Chemi pure will not be the cause of your problem. The extention of the frogspawn could be limited for a number of reasons. Lighting, chemistry, water quality, excessive water flow or coral warfare. I find more often than not with an LPS it's chemistry.

Please post your water parameters and chemistry.

As far as the red algae is concerned, PO4 is definately the biggest contributor. Eliminate that and you eliminate the cyano. You must also ensure you find the source of the PO4 or it will continue to hinder you. Try to get the source water tested as well as the tank water.

Cheers
Steve

 

[BlueDolphin]

Thanks, Steve. I guess I'll have to see if my LFS can test my water. I thought maybe my tap water filter wasn't doing a good job, but I've never had a red algae problem before.

I'll post my parameters and chemistry asap.

 

[steve-s]

I thought maybe my tap water filter wasn't doing a good job, but I've never had a red algae problem before.

Testing the source water for PO4 and the like will tell you if it's doing the job. Might also be time to change the filters. If you have a very high TDS, it will cut the typical life of a filter by quite a bit..

Cheers
Steve

 

[BlueDolphin]

I changed the filter on my tap water filter not too long ago. I tested the parameters today:

pH 7.9
SG 1.025
nitrates <10
ammonia 0

I am currently making some new saltwater and am going to do a 20% water change. I was also looking at an item from Drs. Foster and Smith - it's called PhosBan Reactor 150. Has anyone heard of it or used it themselves? It's supposed to help keep the phosphate levels low.

 

[GrndHog]

chem-clean took care of my red algae problem, I know water-world carries it.

 

[BlueDolphin]

chem-clean... what exactly is that? Is it added directly to the tank water?

 

[GrndHog]

Yes it is, after the treatment it is recommended that you do a 20% water change.

Pretty simple and my corals didnt mind it a bit.

 

[steve-s]

I changed the filter on my tap water filter not too long ago. I tested the parameters today:

pH 7.9
SG 1.025
nitrates <10
ammonia 0

What time of day was the pH tested? That is not a good level if later in the day. The water change may help but be sure the surface water is well aggitated and you do not have a solid lid on the tank.

As far as the tap water filter, you also need to get the water tested for PO4. That is the #1 contributor to cyano and green algae problems.

I was also looking at an item from Drs. Foster and Smith - it's called PhosBan Reactor 150. Has anyone heard of it or used it themselves? It's supposed to help keep the phosphate levels low.

I wouldn't waste your money on exspensive products claiming to eliminate PO4. First and foremost find out what introducing the PO4 and eliminate that. Foods and source water are the key suspects. Once the source is identified and stopped, simpley use a non aluminum oxide based PO4 granular sponge to remove the remaining PO4 in the tank. A good granular product will remove organic/inorganic PO4 as well as silicates.

I would never suggest using chems.

Cheers
Steve

 

[BlueDolphin]

Steve,

I thought the pH levels were low. I tested it in the morning around 11 am. I have two powerheads directed towards the center and upwards. I also have an open hood on my tank.

So, instead of spending my money on the PhosBan reactor, I think I'll get some other test kits that I really need. I would really like to get an RO/DI unit as my tap water filter is a PAIN to attach, wait forever while it filters water, and then detach. Now, as far as the non aluminum oxide based PO4 granular sponge, could I purchase this at my LFS. Is there a special place it should go in the sump?

Thanks again!

 

[steve-s]

Now, as far as the non aluminum oxide based PO4 granular sponge, could I purchase this at my LFS.

Most marine LFS will carry something. Just be sure it does not contain aluminum. Best suggestion is find out what brands they carry and then check online for the MSDS before you purchase it. You can also post back here.

Is there a special place it should go in the sump?

A high water flow area is best. If you do not have a HOB or canister, rig a basket to sit under the out port of the skimmer or overflow into the sump. You will also need a filter bag to hold the media.

I thought the pH levels were low. I tested it in the morning around 11 am. I have two powerheads directed towards the center and upwards. I also have an open hood on my tank.

What time do the lights come on and what is the alk/Ca level?


Cheers
Steve