tank is a mess again please help!

[AnnnetteM]

I have a 110 gal tank, wet/dry w/bioballs, skimmer, uv ster, 3 powerheads in main tank. I use aquarium pharm tap water filter for my water changes and top off. My ph is 8.2, amm is 0, nitrites are .1, nitrates are 75, phosphates are 2 and cal is 450. I only feed every other day with fresh food I blend and freeze myself. I also have a red and black algea bloom in my sand due to phos I am guessing. Well, I have been using kent phos remover for 2 days and will be swapping it for new bag in the sump today as per instrutions on the bottle. No change in phos though. Nitrates I constantly use nitrate sponge and still I have nitrates. I do 25% water change about every 2-3 weeks with IO salt mix. My coralline algea on my rocks is rapidly disappearing, my fish are going through ick and I just added a red slime algea remover powder 2 days at the same time I put in the phos remover and now my skimmer for the first time is going haywire and filling a whole gallon of clear water i about 5 min. It did it 5 times so yesterday I had to shut it down after adjusting it to the lowest level it stil kept filling. It is foaming like crazy. Oh I also have 100 lbs of LR. Please help before I just tear it all down and chuck it in the garbage. I did do a water change of 25 gal a few days ago and it didn't help. Where is all these sh** problems coming from? Oh the crazy LFS did have me dump some phos remover powder straight into the sump 2 months ago and now I know that could be seeping phos into the tank so there I think I may be out of luck, no? Please help!!!!!

 

[BillyZ]

Where is all these sh** problems coming from?

Two possible big contributors are the "wet/dry w/bioballs" remove the bio-balls. they contribute to the Nitrates; the other could be the filter. I'm not familiar with that brand/model so I can't say for sure. but what I just saw on a quick google is that it's a single stage filter. I question it's efficiency. Perhaps if there are others here with more info on that filter they can tell you for sure. But you might want to consider upgrading your filter to a better RO/DI filter.

You LR is a little on the low side, you should have about 150-200# of rock. You can add base rock to the 100# you have. the bacteria and coraline will spread to it eventually.

IMO, stop adding the phosphate removers and algae removers. get a clean up crew (snails etc, check our sponsors) they will help with the algae and will be something you'll want in there anyway. All new tanks will go through a rough algae bloom period after they've completed the cycle. by your readings, I'm assuming you're just finishing your cycle?

 

[Atari]

Perhaps if there are others here with more info on that filter they can tell you for sure.

I can vouch for the tap filter. It's excellent as long as you keep the flowrate down and replace the resin when needed.

 

[AnnnetteM]

So you suggest I just take the bio balls out? That seems like it would throw things off even more so right now no? Isn't there good bacteria on the bio balls?

 

[quarryshark]

Ok, for starter, stop dumping stuff in the tank. There are no quick fixes in this hobby.
Now, if your fish have ich, you will need to remove them to a qt tank for proper treatment, while leaving the main void of fish for 6 weeks to allow the parasites to go through their life cycle and die off. You can treat the fish easily in the qt tank with hypo or a good copper agent like cupramine.
You then need to get the nitrates and po4 down. like Billy stated, loose the bio balls. You can also up the water changes to like twice a week, siphoning out the algea. At the same time consider getting a R/O unit to improve the water quality Don't trust someone elses water. If you can get the nitrates and po4 down, it shoud help with the algea problem.
We will be happy to help you with specifics.

 

[Atari]

Don't trust someone elses water.

She uses an API tap filter which IMO can be better than RO water. But then it should be for the price.

 

[quarryshark]

Don't trust someone elses water.

She uses an API tap filter which IMO can be better than RO water. But then it should be for the price.

Good point, agreed. But maybe she should test that water to see if something is amiss.

 

[Atari]

Yeah if the resin has been used up then it's not doing any filtering and may even be leeching nutrients. If your tap water is particularly harsh then this might have happened some time ago. Have you ever changed the cartridge?

I agree with quarryshark that you need to QT the fish and then sort out these problems properly (with many water changes).

And please don't listen to that crazy LFS again!

 

[jackdp]

Before removing the bioballs, do you have any LR and if so how much. If you have sufficient LR then take out the bioballs, they are fueling your nitrate level.

Second, test your tap water for nitrate and phosphate levels, then test the water after you have filtered it before adding salt, and then test after mixing with salt. This will let you know if you are introducing any nutrients into the tank via the water supply, filter or salt mix. Otherwise, get the cleanup crew and be wary of any chemicals you add to fix levels, the best place to start fixing anything with SW is with water changes.

 

[steve-s]

Before removing the bioballs, do you have any LR and if so how much. If you have sufficient LR then take out the bioballs, they are fueling your nitrate level.

Agreed but with only 100 lbs of rock in the tank there will still be insufficient surface area for bacteria to colonize and help keep water quality in check. You could easily add another 60-100 lbs of rock either dry base (easier on the $$) or LR. Once the filtration capacity is augmented, you can then slowly start removing small amounts of the bioballs weekly until they are gone. I would definately not suggest removing them all at once even with the appropriate amount of rock.

As far as the NO3 and PO4, I would also suggest looking at what types of foods you use and how often/how much you feed. This can be just as much a contributor as any water source. Bioballs typically are at their worst when the tank is overfed. They do not produce heavy nitrates unless they have something to trap.

Cheers
Steve

 

[AnnnetteM]

ok, I will test the levels of the water as suggested, before filtration, after, and after salt mix. This is the ONLY thing I can control. Adding more LR, forget it. The tank being a 110 tall is only 4 feet long and 18 inches wide so I went as tall as I could with the LR before I cause a major tumble of rocks! It is the 1 thing I hate about this tank. The LR issue and placing my coral. As far as feeding I only feed a few cubes of homemade frozen food or a frozen blend every other day. So I don't think the food is the problem. I only feed 5-6 small cubes. It has to be the water somehow so now knowing my LR situation should I remove the bio-balls? And as for the fish I have no where to house them. If I improve water quality could the kick ich work in good water conditions? Or is there anything that may? As far as the filter cart. I have replaced 3 times in the last 6 months. The directions say to replace when the cart turns from orage to purple. I wait until it is 2/3 purple and then change it out so I don't know, but will check. I have a water softner tank on my house could this be a problem? The kind with the rock salt that is added to a tank on the side of the house. Any more info would be great. Thanks for at least giving me some direction with where to start.

 

[quarryshark]

sorry, the kick ich is junk. Read through previous post and you will see disaster after disaster. If a med is strong enough to work, it will destroy good things in you tank. If it is "reef or invert safe", it will not kill the parasite.
If you really want to solve the parasite problem. A qt tanks is the answer. Once again, see previous post. Lots of good info.

 

[darb2]

As far as feeding I only feed a few cubes of homemade frozen food or a frozen blend every other day. So I don't think the food is the problem. I only feed 5-6 small cubes.

What size are the cubes?

 

[Atari]

That sounds like a lot of food to me!

 

[ccCapt]

Two possible big contributors are the "wet/dry w/bioballs" remove the bio-balls. they contribute to the Nitrates;

I read alot in here about how bad bio balls are. All I can say is I've had my 50 gal reef with about 75 lbs of lr running for over 15 yrs now and have used bio balls in my wet/dry since day 1. With regular maintenance and water changes my nitrates have always been at zero or at least at a level that's not detectable.
IMO the high nitrates Annette is getting is either from all the food, 5-6 cubes seems like way to much food, or the water she is using for top offs and water changes has high nitrate levels.

 

[steve-s]

I read alot in here about how bad bio balls are. All I can say is I've had my 50 gal reef with about 75 lbs of lr running for over 15 yrs now and have used bio balls in my wet/dry since day 1. With regular maintenance and water changes my nitrates have always been at zero or at least at a level that's not detectable.
IMO the high nitrates Annette is getting is either from all the food, 5-6 cubes seems like way to much food, or the water she is using for top offs and water changes has high nitrate levels.

Agreed. I have advocated this many times. The use of media for nitrification is rarely the issue. It's either lack of maintenance, over feeding or overstocking. These items work, they just need looking after

Cheers
Steve

 

[AnnnetteM]

ok, I checked my water before and after filtration and after salt. The filter is the problem I believe, but the tap measures 0 nitrates and 0 phosphates, but the aquarium pham filter measures .1 phosphates and 10ppm nitrates, how can this be? Unless my tap has trace undetectable amounts of both and they have accumulated in the cart than this is the only way, no? My tap at this point is better although I am doing a 30 gal water change tomorrow with distilled. As far as the food the cubes are very small and my fish consume it very fast and the tang is very fast and very hungry anytime he sees me near the tank he thinks it's feeding time. If I feed them less which I have tried then they get pinched in bellies by the 2nd day and I don't think this is healthy either. I did have some nitrate removing cubes under the wet dry that the LFS told me to change only every 6 months and it has only been 4, but I took these out tonight, emptied my sump in the wet dry and these cubes were gross and dark brown. I am going to try only using the kent nitrate granules in the filter bag and see if this helps if I change them 1 time a month. One last question, my skimmer was fine until I put in the kent phosphate removing granules in a filter bag in the sump. I took them out and changed for new ones after 2 days, but my skimmer fills a gallon of clear water after only 15 min or so. Is there any reason this could be happening? I checked the skimmer and it is ok and set to the lowest setting, I also added red slime remover about 6 days ago because the phos was causing red slime in my sand bed. What could have caused my skimmer to go haywire? I hate running the tank w/o a skimmer with so much bad stuff going on. And oh, can I put a vlamingi tang, yellow tank, pink anthias, and 4 perculas in a 30 gal for a month for my ich treatment or will they be stressed? I know dumb question, but this is all I have room for is a 30 and before I buy it what else do I need as far as filtration for the month of QT for the ich? And also how many water changes in the QT tank while treating it? I hate to ask the LFS because I am learning they are so stupid! I really want to get this all under control asap so any more suggestions would be wonderful and thank you all sooo much for your help. My tank would be destroyed beyond repair if it weren't for this forum!

 

[darb2]

your skimmer is going nuts because of all of the stuff you are adding to the tank.
your hospital tank will be full, so be prepared to do frequent water changes to keep nh4 in check.

 

[steve-s]

By the sounds of it, feedings are still your biggest contributor to the main tanks poblems. Tangs need constant grazing foods to keep up with their higher metabolisms. Increasing the amounts of feeding will not solve your problem. Instead add some nori for them daily or even twice daily, just be sure it gets eaten and does not decompose. The other fish should easily get by with your cubed foods. 2-3 cubes every other day should be plenty. When it comes to water quality it does not matter if the animals eat all the foods you feed or not. What goes in must come out and the detritus is just as polluting.

The Kent sponge will not likely do much if anything. They work best in a very low flow environment. Getting rid of the phosphates is a good step but the red slime remover is just a stop gap and the cause for your skimmer going wonky. Keep up with the PO4 remover but discontinue the red slime remover. Keep doing repeated water changes with the pure water and syphon out the cyano at the same time.

Agreed with Darb2 on the QT but don't worry about the NH4, just test for NH3 and the other usual ones, NO2, NO3 and pH. You will need to watch your feedings and be sure you always have some well aged SW prepared. Most likley water quality will be hard to control. Have losts of PVC pipe in the QT as well so the fish have places to hide. How big are the tangs?

Cheers
Steve

 

[AnnnetteM]

The vlamingi is about 4 inches and the yellow from nose to tail tip is about 3 inches maybe. I know the vlamingi will eventually outgrow the tank and is already a pig with te nori on the clip he goes through it in about 5 min. forget the grazing. He doesn't graze he pigs out. So how long should I age the SW for the QT? And what filtration do I need for it? I will watch out for the levels and do a lot of water changes, but how do I filter when using copper meds? Thanks again for taking the time to answer these questions!