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Old 07-02-2004, 08:09 AM   #11
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Crap, my kh test is now 225 mg/L
That's double what the booklet suggests. 8O
Calcium is at 340 mg/L, a bit low I guess.

What does this mean / imply, and how do I rectify it?
I'm using a new Hagen test kit, so it should be accurate.
But these tests don't make any sense to me. I thought if kh is high then Ca is generally high.
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Old 07-03-2004, 02:35 AM   #12
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Bump, anyone have any ideas on my kh issue?
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Old 07-03-2004, 06:47 AM   #13
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test for alkalinity if the results are below 2.5 meq/l some buffer should be added thru a partial water change or by adding a buffer supplement the result should be between 2.5 and 5.0
if it is higher than 2.5 verify co2 levels. transfer 1/2 gal from tank to a container and airate heavily overnight and test aquarium and sample jar. if the pH sample in the jar is signifigantly higher than pH of tank there is a buildup of co2 and increase airation (more ph or surface agitation) or decrease bioload
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Old 07-03-2004, 07:47 AM   #14
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is meq/L the same as mg/L ?
Anyone have a calculator?

The pH of a container of saltwater that has been aerating for 3 days is the same pH as the main tank. I'll try it again and report back. I'm not sure if it is a CO2 issue as I have both powerheads breaking the surface pretty well, plus my skimmer return breaks the surface as well.

Medical joke: I hope my tank isn't going through respiratory acidosis.
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Old 07-03-2004, 09:26 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightSpirit
Medical joke: I hope my tank isn't going through respiratory acidosis.
Tell your tank to cut back on the smoking
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Old 07-03-2004, 11:16 AM   #16
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Hmm..it almost did when I forgot to turn the valves off when I disconnected my canister filter.

Found a conversion chart.
mg/L KH * 0.02 = mEq/L
so 225 mg/L KH * 0.02 = 4.5 mEq/L

Now this is very odd. This means that either Hagen's acceptable range or their conversion is wrong. They say I shouldn't be over 125 mg/l (2.5 mEq/L by their conversion). However, my KENT dKH buffer states that he range should be between 3.5 to 5.5 mEq/L, and my values fall between that.

So, if the conversion is correct, and my KH is within normal range, then my tank is acutally normal, as the pH has stabilized after adding the buffer.

Perhaps it's time to actually get a fish

Btw, my wife hates me
I moved my freshwater tank into the living room, so now we have a 55g freshwater and 110 gallon saltwater tank in the living room. She's going to be even madder when I purchase and set up my QT today
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Old 07-03-2004, 04:57 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NightSpirit
Found a conversion chart.
mg/L KH * 0.02 = mEq/L
so 225 mg/L KH * 0.02 = 4.5 mEq/L
You can also divide by 50. 1 mg/l = 50 ppm

Quote:
Now this is very odd. This means that either Hagen's acceptable range or their conversion is wrong. They say I shouldn't be over 125 mg/l (2.5 mEq/L by their conversion). However, my KENT dKH buffer states that he range should be between 3.5 to 5.5 mEq/L, and my values fall between that.

So, if the conversion is correct, and my KH is within normal range, then my tank is acutally normal, as the pH has stabilized after adding the buffer.
Sounds more like you might have a faulty pH test kit or you do have a CO2 problem. At 4.5 mEq/l CaCO3 equivalents, pH should not be as low as you've stated. Adding more buffer will not help and since you've removed, aerated and tested a sample portion of the water, I'm more inclined to suspect the test kit. Is it a proper SW test kit?

Cheers
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Old 07-04-2004, 04:36 AM   #18
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What LFS do you use? I live in Gilbert! I have not found a good store except Aquatouch. (A little far away though?)
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Old 07-04-2004, 10:53 PM   #19
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I switched salt brands to oceanic and now everything is stablized and o.k.

Thank you for the advice everyone.

Quote:
What LFS do you use? I live in Gilbert! I have not found a good store except Aquatouch. (A little far away though?)
I have not heard of Aquatouch. The Ocean Floor in phoenix is o.k. but they are really expensive and the salespeople try to get you to buy things that you don't need. Aquarium Arts in mesa is horrible IMHO, their fish always look sick and their liverock looks no better than base rock. Actually, the "dry base-rock" Aquarium Arts sells can be some really cool stuff with interesting shapes. Horrible to use as base for liverock, but sweet for landscaping purposes for freshwater.

The best store I have found is sort of shack-like, and doesn't have much inventory, but they generally have really good prices, and a decent amount of livestock is captive bred. You can see if they have anything of interest before going there: http://www.allaquatics.net/
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Old 07-05-2004, 06:40 PM   #20
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Good to know , I will check it out. I would not buy corals at aquarium arts but I have occasionally bought fish there. I think some of them look sick because of the pale blue backing on their tanks. I do have to say that I have never had a sick fish from there in over 10 years. I am very careful what I buy however. I usually buy at aquatouch, they are at 32 street and cactus. The ONLY LFS I have found where the staff is very knowledgable. Where else do you shop?
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