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Old 01-24-2009, 06:27 PM   #1
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Question the cyno that wont leave

been battling cyno for a year or more. have used some First Aid brand cyno killer. knocks most out, but comes back in couple weeks. already cut down on my feeding, little flake every 2 or 3 days instead of brine everyday. attinic lights 4 to 10 pm, cpf's 6 to 9:30pm with a small fluorescent a few hours before and after to simulate day cycle. new crushed coral a month ago at the same time as 50% water change, cleaning both wet-dry and canister filters. nitrasorb in canister,and phos-complete in wet-dry over flow from protien skimmer section, cleaned all filter media, pulled out all 80 lbs of live rock and scrubbed it in a bucket of fresh saltwater. a treatment of the cyno killer, a 20% water change and within 1 1/2 weeks started seeing blooms. thinking about hanging it up and going fresh. have a friend with 125 tank, up for 2 years, uses well water, has never done a water change and hes never had a problem and has beautiful tank with lots of coralmine algae and and lots of nice specimans. have been thinking about pulling all live rock out and re- cureing if thats possible, cleaning everything again including crushed coral and basicly starting over. any ideas??
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Old 01-24-2009, 07:54 PM   #2
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The flakes could be the start of the problem, they are generally high in phosphates.
Does your filter have the foam in it? If so, are you rinsing it out in your old SW?
I completely took mine out.
The CC could also contribute to the cyano and will need to be vacked out when you do a PWC. I also took out my CC.
Have you checked your source water for phosphates?
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Old 01-24-2009, 08:10 PM   #3
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How to Battle Cyanobacteria: What To Do When You Just Can't Get Rid of It

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/articl...ae-/Page1.html
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Old 01-24-2009, 08:23 PM   #4
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It is dangerous but, have you tried erethromycin? Careful target application has worked for me.......Only consider it as a last resort.
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Old 01-25-2009, 01:37 AM   #5
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You might try one or all of what worked for me. I had a bad cyano problem for a few months. Im not sure what knocked it out but i got an RO/DI unit(I was buying RO water at the LFS but used treated tap for top offs occasionaly) Ditched my HOB filter. I siphoned off some sand and replaced with a new top layer. Scaled back feeding. And what I think did the most good was changing my bulbs. At the time my bulbs were 8-10 mo old. A week after the new sand, 3-4 10-15% water changes, and new bulbs, the cyano was gone. My nitrates and phosphates went down and I havnt seen any cyano in my tank since. And my corals are looking better than ever too.
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Old 01-25-2009, 09:58 AM   #6
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if the flake is the problem, then what do you feed with? 1 yellow tang, 2 pajama cards, 1 green chromis, snails and hermits
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Old 01-25-2009, 01:01 PM   #7
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Start using frozen food. I use the formula variety pack and marine cusine. Feed your tang some seaweed every few days too.
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Old 01-25-2009, 03:00 PM   #8
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I just read that article on the link and it said:Since Cyanobacteria are especially nasty to the aquarist, it can be difficult to remove once it’s been established. If water changes have not begun to make a significant difference in a month or so of diligence, check your light fixtures to be sure they are not over six months old for compact fluorescents, and 9 months old for other types of higher output.

AM I REALLLY SUPPOSE TO CHANGE MY LIGHT BULBS and not just let them burn out?
I obviously no nothing about this!
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Old 01-25-2009, 03:29 PM   #9
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Bulbs will lose their par/spectral shift over time, thus depreciating usable light for coral growth and allowing algae to benefit.

Vho's: 6 months
Pc's: 6-12 months
T5's: 12 months - ?
Halides: 12 months
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Old 01-25-2009, 04:10 PM   #10
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James is right on the money as usual. The spectrum will shift in older bulbs causing algea problems. I change my VHO bulbs every 6 months like he said there.
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