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Old 05-13-2005, 05:42 PM   #1
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Total tank wipeout


I have a 250 gal saltwater setup with 150 lbs of live rock, 160 lbs of reef sand, 250 gal sump, 36 w jebo uv sterilizer, and now almost no fish (2 damsels and a six line wrasse) So...this is the story, about a month ago the uv sterilizer I had, developed a kinked hose and my fish at the time(hippo,sailfin,bristle tooth tangs,red lip blenny, royal gramma, formosa wrasse, and a harlequin tusk) began developing ich. When we diagnosed the problem with the uv sterilizer, I ordered another which promptly broke. In the process of getting another one almost all of my fish died. I have had this tank setup for 4 yrs, everything even survived a move and still thrived. With the wipeout of my tank I took the opportunity to replace the crushed coral with reef sand (I left some crushed coral in the tank to allow it to cycle although it may not need to). Now, no matter what fish I put in there, it promptly dies. I got a tenneti tang (I think that's how you spell it) after the crash, but before dying he developed spots all over his body, like someone beat him up. The last one to go was the harlequin, he appeared fine, but began developing a mucous that covered his entire body and then like all the others he died. This is so frustrating I haven't had any problems until this, and now I can't get the tank up and functioning again. Any sugestions as to what I need to get or what I'm doing wrong?
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Old 05-13-2005, 06:15 PM   #2
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are you quaranting your fish, i havent been, but i will in the future. I heard once ich is in the tank it takes 6 weeks to burn out without any fish in your tank. Sorry to here for your losses. Do you know how the ich got in your tank, probably the last fish you added before you it started developing.
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50 Gallon Oceanic: 2 maxijet 1200's, 2 150 watt visitherm heaters, BakPak II Skimmer with PS & BT, Coralife Lunar 2X65 watt Power Compacts

Filtration: 50lbs LR.com, 60lbs sand

Swimmers: 2 O. Clowns, Yellow Watchman, Firefish, Yellow Tang, Dottyback.

Clean-Up: Several snail & hermits, Skunk Cleaner, 2 Peps.

Corals: 2 zoo colonies, yellow polyps, star polyps
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Old 05-13-2005, 06:24 PM   #3
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Well the thing is, I hadn't added any fish before the wipeout. It had been about 6 months since I added the gramma. I'm pretty sure that the failure of the uv sterilizer is what did it, I just don't understand why we have had so many problems since we replaced it. Is it possible for the bacteria and everything to build up after the uv sterilizer broke? Another thing is I have a Jebo 36 w sterilizer, I have heard that certain brands are better, could this be part of my problem?
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Old 05-13-2005, 06:34 PM   #4
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I really dont have any experience with UV Sterilizers, i am also pretty new to saltwater, only for a couple of months. From what i heard, people say that just because you have a UV Sterilizer does not mean you wont get ich. I personallly dont know what causes ich either. Do you have a protein skimmer, and what kind of filtration do you have. People say that you should have at least 1-2 lbs per gallon of Liverock. How many powerheads do you have, and what are your water parameters?
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50 Gallon Oceanic: 2 maxijet 1200's, 2 150 watt visitherm heaters, BakPak II Skimmer with PS & BT, Coralife Lunar 2X65 watt Power Compacts

Filtration: 50lbs LR.com, 60lbs sand

Swimmers: 2 O. Clowns, Yellow Watchman, Firefish, Yellow Tang, Dottyback.

Clean-Up: Several snail & hermits, Skunk Cleaner, 2 Peps.

Corals: 2 zoo colonies, yellow polyps, star polyps
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Old 05-13-2005, 06:36 PM   #5
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And BTW, Welcome to AA
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50 Gallon Oceanic: 2 maxijet 1200's, 2 150 watt visitherm heaters, BakPak II Skimmer with PS & BT, Coralife Lunar 2X65 watt Power Compacts

Filtration: 50lbs LR.com, 60lbs sand

Swimmers: 2 O. Clowns, Yellow Watchman, Firefish, Yellow Tang, Dottyback.

Clean-Up: Several snail & hermits, Skunk Cleaner, 2 Peps.

Corals: 2 zoo colonies, yellow polyps, star polyps
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Old 05-13-2005, 06:47 PM   #6
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My tank is 6'long 2.5' deep and 2' tall, I have a protein skimmer but I have not had it running, before this I haven't had any problems. I have 4 powerheads, 2 are 1200 l/hr and I don't know what the other 2 are. My filtraion is a 250 gal wet/dry with prefilter (bioballs). I'm not sure if this is ich, it is probably something else, I don't see the tale tale white dots on the fish that died after the new uv sterilizer went in.
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Old 05-13-2005, 06:50 PM   #7
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All the tests on the water have come back fine except the ammonia but I suspect that is because all of the fish that have been dying
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Old 05-14-2005, 06:49 AM   #8
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sounds like water quality to me (
personally i dont use uv sterilizers...
when i got ick in my tank..i used something called exodin...which can be put directly into the tank even reefs...
i had excellent results with this stuff....went in 2 days and never come back yet !
i aint a big fan of wet/dry systems myself...or bioballs
i use fulval 404`s.....
i read somewhere that ick is in EVERY tank...just lookin for an excuse to come out !
water quality is the key...
do some tests and post them
SG...nitrate and nitrite...amm....ph and wot temp is water kept at...
is it possible u have a defective heater ? check powerheads....
anything is possible...
try runnin uv free ?
how deep is your sandbed ?
if you have a 6 inch SB you shouldn`t really use bioballs IMO
give us some figures to work on...its the only way to get the best help in ere !
in the meantime do not put fish in there.
how many times do u change water...and how much ?
quote ....
The last one to go was the harlequin, he appeared fine, but began developing a mucous that covered his entire body and then like all the others he died


this is definately down to water quality !
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Old 05-14-2005, 10:30 AM   #9
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Hi, the UV sterlizer will not be useful for this problem (from my own experience too). The sterilizer only kills free floating parasites and only if they are exposed to the light for a long period of time. Your best bet is to allow the tank to run without any fish (invertebrates are fine to leave in) for a minimum of 6 weeks to allow the parasite to complete the cycle and die off.

As others have stated, a Quarantine Tank is your best friend. I never used one until recently and I will never add fish to my main tank without QT them first due to my experience with Ich.

Finally, and others may agree/disagree, I've been using a UV sterlizer for 5+ years and I don't think it's made any difference in my water quality. I plan next month on removing the UV sterilizer to confirm my hypothesis. I think it can SLOW the progression of disease/algae blooms but will never STOP it.

- Jeff
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Old 05-14-2005, 11:28 AM   #10
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Quote:
the UV sterlizer will not be useful for this problem (from my own experience too). The sterilizer only kills free floating parasites and only if they are exposed to the light for a long period of time. Your best bet is to allow the tank to run without any fish (invertebrates are fine to leave in) for a minimum of 6 weeks to allow the parasite to complete the cycle and die off.
He shoots, he scores! this is absolutley your best course of action. Let the tank remain fallow for 6-8 weeks. You can bump up the temp a bit (to 81-82) to help speed up the life cycle of the parasite, but there is really no need if you are running a fallow tank. It can actually be stressful on the inverts in there. Set up a QT tank now (with all new stuff, nothing taken from the main) and start your QT process with a couple of new fish. Once the fallow period is done your new fish will have been properly QT and ready to go.
Sorry to hear about your troubles.
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